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Thread: Star Lube Sizer Air Feed for Lube Completed & Successful

  1. #21
    Boolit Buddy Tmaloy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CiDirkona View Post
    What threads is the top of the tube? Maybe it'd be easier just to find a top cap or coupler that screws on rather than using the knurled knob that comes with the press?
    Sorry all, I have been down with the flu and bronchitis, I will try to answer some of your questions.

    First off, Frozone was the originator of the idea, I just came up with a working prototype. I think we all owe him thanks for the idea. If I had not found his forum reply to a post, I would probably have never done it. Frozone, I'm dried up for now but don't you think $10 for royalties is a little steep for us CB'ers?

    angus6, mmmm.......I have no idea.....ahhh......nevermind......

    The threads on the lube reservoir are at a quick glance 1-1/4" X 20tpi, this is a not something easily found if found at all. One would have to turn down a quite a lot of material to make a cap with a tapped fitting for the air connection and use an inside threading tool, there is no easy way to do it for now, which is why I have put my lube extension for the Star on hold. It is more cost efficient to make a bushing that fits in to the original lube cap. I'm sure there are forum members here that could machine one out of stock they may have lying around. One member has mentioned that he has ordered a fitting that may just bolt into the cap. I'm sure if it works for him, he would be more than happy to give the part # for all to look out for. I am awaiting word back from him.

    The Lyman design I am working on I'm sure will work on the Lube-a-Matic, as they seem to be of the same design. I have an old Lyman 450 body that I'm using as the test prototype, it is missing a lot of parts but just using the body for testing should be enough. I have the plans in my head but, just getting around to machining the one part needed is the hard part. The rest is all hardware bolt on material. I no longer have my 3-in-1 machine so I can only use my buddy's machine at his leisure and his time. Secondly, with the holidays fast approaching I have less time to work on my own projects and must concentrate on my job. I am planning to post a mock-up of the Lyman design or at least a simple drawing of how it would work hopefully within the next week or two.

    And now for a little distraction here is me!

    Happy Holidays to all,
    Troy

  2. #22
    Boolit Buddy
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    Neat video -- if I had tried that, I'd be out a video camera!

  3. #23
    Boolit Master prickett's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tmaloy View Post
    Sorry all, I have been down with the flu and bronchitis, I will try to answer some of your questions.

    First off, Frozone was the originator of the idea, I just came up with a working prototype. I think we all owe him thanks for the idea. If I had not found his forum reply to a post, I would probably have never done it. Frozone, I'm dried up for now but don't you think $10 for royalties is a little steep for us CB'ers?

    angus6, mmmm.......I have no idea.....ahhh......nevermind......

    The threads on the lube reservoir are at a quick glance 1-1/4" X 20tpi, this is a not something easily found if found at all. One would have to turn down a quite a lot of material to make a cap with a tapped fitting for the air connection and use an inside threading tool, there is no easy way to do it for now, which is why I have put my lube extension for the Star on hold. It is more cost efficient to make a bushing that fits in to the original lube cap. I'm sure there are forum members here that could machine one out of stock they may have lying around. One member has mentioned that he has ordered a fitting that may just bolt into the cap. I'm sure if it works for him, he would be more than happy to give the part # for all to look out for. I am awaiting word back from him.

    The Lyman design I am working on I'm sure will work on the Lube-a-Matic, as they seem to be of the same design. I have an old Lyman 450 body that I'm using as the test prototype, it is missing a lot of parts but just using the body for testing should be enough. I have the plans in my head but, just getting around to machining the one part needed is the hard part. The rest is all hardware bolt on material. I no longer have my 3-in-1 machine so I can only use my buddy's machine at his leisure and his time. Secondly, with the holidays fast approaching I have less time to work on my own projects and must concentrate on my job. I am planning to post a mock-up of the Lyman design or at least a simple drawing of how it would work hopefully within the next week or two.

    And now for a little distraction here is me!

    Happy Holidays to all,
    Troy
    Looks like you are shooting black powder in your glock

  4. #24
    Boolit Buddy Tmaloy's Avatar
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    Yup, can't wait for my CR to get here, just finished all that Magma lube, so I hope to do a smoke comparison. Hoping for the best.

    Troy

  5. #25
    Boolit Master
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    CiDirKona, I just found a fitting at the hardware that threads into the top cap of the star and has 1/4 inch pipe nipple extending out the top [all one piece brass]. The portion that threads into the cap is 5/8 x18. It has a 45 degree gas bevel but once in the cap, you don't see it. The name of the fitting is a 5/8x1/4 male flare MIP ADPT. I pit an O ring and teflon tape on it put it in finger tight and pressurized it to 80 PSI and no leaks!! No machining, threading, tapping or anything, Plug AND Play! Good Luck!! Rod.

  6. #26
    Boolit Buddy Tmaloy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rodsvet View Post
    CiDirKona, I just found a fitting at the hardware that threads into the top cap of the star and has 1/4 inch pipe nipple extending out the top [all one piece brass]. The portion that threads into the cap is 5/8 x18. It has a 45 degree gas bevel but once in the cap, you don't see it. The name of the fitting is a 5/8x1/4 male flare MIP ADPT. I pit an O ring and teflon tape on it put it in finger tight and pressurized it to 80 PSI and no leaks!! No machining, threading, tapping or anything, Plug AND Play! Good Luck!! Rod.
    Rod looks like you have discovered the elusive little bugger we need. Please post a pic and link of your find so we can all enjoy getting blown. Ahem I mean pressurized. Thanks for the update, that's what I love about this forum all willing to contribute to making our hobby more enjoyable.

  7. #27
    Boolit Master D Crockett's Avatar
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    star air

    well I don't mean to rain on anyone prade but I hooked up mine 1in 4 bullets was missing lube on part of the bullet I don't have a clue as to what is wrong if anyone can help me out here you would make me a happy camper D Crockett

  8. #28
    Boolit Master
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    Tmaloy and Frozone, Thanks for the research and the original idea!! Go to the Home Depot web site and punch in 5/8x3/8 male flare union. You will see what the item looks like. Although the one they show has a 3/8 pipe thread on top, you could make it work with a 3/8 to 1/4 reducer. I would shop at a hardware store for the 1/4 inch size and also look for one with a larger wrench size to better seat the O ring. I used teflon tape and an O ring and it seals real well just finger tight. Rod.

  9. #29
    Boolit Buddy Tmaloy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by D Crockett View Post
    well I don't mean to rain on anyone prade but I hooked up mine 1in 4 bullets was missing lube on part of the bullet I don't have a clue as to what is wrong if anyone can help me out here you would make me a happy camper D Crockett
    Crockett,

    Try and make sure that your size die is clean, with more pressure in the tube it may be filling with little pieces of debris. Make sure your lube is up to temp. Are you using enough pressure? Crank it up a little at a time and check your progress. Sometimes, air pockets can be caught in between and stop lube flow until they are exhausted through the lube port in the lower body. This has happened to me when I have added more lube. I hold my handle down and keep the valve open while air finds its way down and out the lube hole. Add air pressure while doing this to force trapped air out of the lube body. If you hear a few pops that is the air escaping out and lube will jet out right after it.

    I had to figure all these out when I first ran this setup. After awhile you begin to feel when their is air trapped in their as the handle will kick back with a little extra spring in it.

    If these suggestions don't help, remove the die from the sizer body and add pressure, make sure sufficient lube is exiting the lube port with out the die in place to make sure there is no obstructions inside the lower body. Completely clean the size die and make sure the lube ports are properly plugged and in alignment. I had one die that would shave the bullet and would self seal the lube port. One thing that may be overlooked is that the die set screw is right over one of the lube ports causing the blockage of lube, remove and rotate the die to make sure it is not being covered by the set screw. Do a basic inspection of all your parts and make sure they are working as they should.

    Troy

  10. #30
    Boolit Buddy
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    I love this site. Lots of great work on getting an off-the-shelf, low dollar solution.

    Are the 5/8 gas pipe fitting threads 18tpi?
    Last edited by CiDirkona; 12-09-2010 at 11:10 AM.

  11. #31
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    unless you are running soft lube, you will need to run a little heat when you use AIR.
    Even with the factory hand setup, I have to run the heater when the temp is below 80 in my shop. Right now with the temps in the 40s, I don't know if I have enough air pressure to push the lube without running a heater and thats with the factory setup.

  12. #32
    Boolit Buddy
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    Alright -- dumb question:

    How do you get the knurled knob off the normal pressure piston screw? Either way I go, it can't come off the end of the threaded rod....

  13. #33
    Boolit Buddy Tmaloy's Avatar
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    CiDirkona,

    There is a steel washer that retains the lube cap to the pressure screw it will come off if you hold the knurled cap and continue to turn it off, the washer is a really snug fit. Mine was quite set it there but it should be able to be removed as it is a part that can be replaced easily. Unless Magma changed the design, it should come off, add a little heat, there might be a little sleeve retainer compound to keep it place. My Star is quite old and once I dropped the cap and screw and the washer fell right out. I don't suggest yo do that though...

    Troy

  14. #34
    Boolit Buddy Tmaloy's Avatar
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    Found it!!!

    Hi all,

    Just got back from Home Depot for a few things and found the part that Rod had mentioned. I have installed and tested the adapter and it works, my only suggestion would be to put an O-ring to help seal the joint, as always use thread sealing tape on the threads. This modification now can be done without machining at all if you desire to do it with just the basic parts. The first pic contains the brass adapter and description along with the air coupler fitting that will thread right on top of it.

    Again, thanks to all who contributed to improving this, hopefully now there is nothing stopping anyone from doing this to their Star.

    Here are the photos from my iPhone.
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  15. #35
    Boolit Buddy
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    Tmaloy,
    Your first picture shows the HD fitting to be 3/8 x 1/4. I thought the top cap was 5/8.
    Just curious.
    John D

    NRA Endowment Member

  16. #36
    Boolit Buddy Tmaloy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by John D View Post
    Tmaloy,
    Your first picture shows the HD fitting to be 3/8 x 1/4. I thought the top cap was 5/8.
    Just curious.
    Hi John,

    The top cap is 5/8X18, but this part is made as a half union for gas pipe fittings, just like when you buy an air fitting the size is in reference to the I.D. of the fitting not the actual thread size. I believe in this case that this is meant to able to adapt one size to another, the outside diameter of the side that fits into the lube cap is 5/8, if you do go hunting for this part just go to the hardware store with your lube cap and try it on, it is meant to act as an adapter to fit from a standard fitting to a flare type union. Simply put it works just fine.

    Here is a link from the Watts website
    http://www.watts.com/pages/_products...s.asp?pid=6432

    Here is the link from the Home Depot with the exact part I used.
    http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...THDStoreFinder

    All I had to do was add a 1/4" air fitting to one side, and screw the other side into the lube cap.

    Make sure you get the Part # that says A-182 and you will be able to bolt it all together. Cost for me was $2.20 at Home Depot.

    Happy Holidays,
    Troy
    Last edited by Tmaloy; 12-11-2010 at 02:54 AM.

  17. #37
    Boolit Grand Master
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    This part is in the mail to me and I should receive it mid week.

  18. #38
    Boolit Buddy Tmaloy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 6bg6ga View Post
    This part is in the mail to me and I should receive it mid week.
    Thanks for the update, it seems we are finding more and more options, we should be able to come up with an average cost to complete the modification. My guess is that once everything is sourced it will come out to less than $25.

    Troy

  19. #39
    Boolit Master
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    After making the air conversion that Tmaloy and Frozone got us interested in, I finally actually tried it out on some 230 gr. ACP. Using carnuba red, low heat, and 30 PSI, and the original piston set up, it WORKED FANTASTIC !! Total parts: 2 O rings--one flare fitting 5/8x14--one pressure gauge from Harbor Freight--one female 1/4 air fitting-- small amount of teflon tape. Total cost $15.81. Of course, I already had an air source. Harbor Freight has their small air tank on sale for 27.99 if you need an air supply. It is so nice not having to mess with the pressure screw. Just keep on sizing! Rod

  20. #40
    Boolit Buddy Tmaloy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rodsvet View Post
    After making the air conversion that Tmaloy and Frozone got us interested in, I finally actually tried it out on some 230 gr. ACP. Using carnuba red, low heat, and 30 PSI, and the original piston set up, it WORKED FANTASTIC !! Total parts: 2 O rings--one flare fitting 5/8x14--one pressure gauge from Harbor Freight--one female 1/4 air fitting-- small amount of teflon tape. Total cost $15.81. Of course, I already had an air source. Harbor Freight has their small air tank on sale for 27.99 if you need an air supply. It is so nice not having to mess with the pressure screw. Just keep on sizing! Rod
    ARRRGGGGHHHHH!!!! Rod, you are sizing what I wish I doing right now!!! I have about 500 230 RN waiting to be sized, just waiting for the Carnauba Red to come in!!

    I'm glad everything worked out for you at an extremely low cost, and thanks for you air pressure settings and temp setting. Now I don't have to experiment cause you did it for me.

    If you can post some pics of those boolits!! I would like to get a preview of how mine would come out!

    Troy

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check