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Thread: 124 gr 9mm lee molds are taking some practice

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
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    124 gr 9mm lee molds are taking some practice

    I'm trying this mold for the first time. My first several dozen of bullets had little wavy lines on the heads. Looked a little like they didn't fill out very well. Dumped them back in the pot, and made sure that my molds were hot. I think that was the problem. Once I got on a roll of pour, dump, pour, dump they started looking a lot better.

  2. #2
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    sargenv's Avatar
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    When heating up my 6 bangers for the first time, I move the sprue plate away from the holes and just pour about a half dozen times without cutting the sprue. It ensures I won't snap the handle off before the mold comes up to temp, and warms things up nicely.. obviously the pours all go directly back into the pot.. once I get it up to operating temp, I tend to not have any further issues.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by chutestrate View Post
    I'm trying this mold for the first time. My first several dozen of bullets had little wavy lines on the heads. Looked a little like they didn't fill out very well. Dumped them back in the pot, and made sure that my molds were hot. I think that was the problem. Once I got on a roll of pour, dump, pour, dump they started looking a lot better.
    Sounds like you have resolved the issue. In my experience, Lee molds like to be ran hot and fast.

    Robert

  4. #4
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    RobS's Avatar
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    It also could have been the oils used at the factory for cutting the cavities; that is if you didn't clean the mold prior to casting. I like to use Dawn dish soap, hot water, and an old toothbrush prior to a 1st time cast.

  5. #5
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    I had to pour them hot and fast to get good though frosty looking boolits from my 9mm 124 mold. I traded that one off.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master armoredman's Avatar
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    I use the 124 grain TL Lee mold, hot and fast is right, good boolits.

  7. #7
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    Frosty is just fine, not a problem.

    Bill
    If it was easy, anybody could do it.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by sargenv View Post
    When heating up my 6 bangers for the first time, I move the sprue plate away from the holes and just pour about a half dozen times without cutting the sprue.
    Now that I've put myself together a mold warmer, I just warm the mold sprue plate side down right before casting.

    -HF
    I give loading advice based on my actual results in factory rifles with standard chambers, twist rates and basic accurizing.
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  9. #9
    In Remembrance
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    I get good boolits out of my Lee 124 grain TL--good fillout, good form, consistent weight, real pretty.

    They just don't shoot worth a damn.


  10. #10
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    Slug the gun. 9's are real tough to load for generally speaking -- high pressures & fast twist.

    I have to use slow powders like unique, blue dot and generally run the boolit larger around 357 diameter.

    Faster powders tend to keyhole on me.

    Once I figured that stuff out, no leading, accurate enjoyable loads. That is my experience, your mileage will vary.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master armoredman's Avatar
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    Sorry, recluse, they do alright by me. I load with AA#7 and they are pretty good.

  12. #12
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    Lee/Ranch Dog 6 cav

    I just got my RD TL358-100RF 6 cav. a couple days ago, mainly for .380 but will try in others, including 9mm. I cleaned it with alcohol and a toothbrush, warmed up the mold with a corner in the pot, then started casting. After maybe 15 pours it was running perfectly, nice clean little boolits everytime, drop out on opening. Never had to tap one out in a whole 10 lb. pot. I was using an old Lee Production pot 10 lber. on high. No idea what the temp was, but they were barely frosty, which is ok by me for tumble lubing with LLA mix. Oh. I used Bullplate on top and an LBT lube stick on the orienting pins. All the Lee 6 cav. molds I've tried have been great.

  13. #13
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    lwknight's Avatar
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    I know that I have to cast fast and furious with my Lee 355-124RN 6 banger molds just to keep the temperature up. Conversely , the 240 grain 44 cal molds let you kick back to a leisurely pace.
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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check