50-70 Springfield

[Charlie, AKA The Deacon]

I have a 2 barrel band springfield, it looks all original. What I am wandering is if I have a Bannerman or a short rifle, the barrel measures 29.5 with the front sight in the correct position.

it is also in the 50-70 cartridge, any help identifying this beast would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks for your post
Charlie--ruger1965

[Baron von Trollwhack]

Check "trapdoor collector.com" for info . BvT

[NickSS]

Its probably a cut down rifle but without a picture it is hard to tell what model. Lots of old muskets were cut down by Bannerman and sold to military schools around the turn of the last century. Every 50-70 musket I have seen has been a three band with barrels between 33 and 36 inches.

[Charlie, AKA The Deacon]

From everything I have look into it is a shortend 50-70, got some help from a friend and got the brass orderd he already has the mold for the 450 boolit. so hopefully by the end of the week we can breath some life back into this weapon!!
thanks

[Charlie, AKA The Deacon]

any advise, the rifle is in great shape!

[13Echo]

Any markings on the rifle?

I have an 1868 with a fair barrel. It does pretty good with the Lee version of the 450gr Gvt bullet over 65gs of FFg compressed enough to seat the bullet for a firm crimp over the front band. The Lee bullet is larger diameter than the current Lyman version of the bullet and does far better in the old soldier.

Jerry Liles

[StrawHat]

http://www.trapdoorcollector.com/

Al Frasca has quite a bit of info.

[NickSS]

I have a couple of 1866s and an 1868 model that I shoot. They need a fat bullet of at least .515" diameter. Smaller ones do not shoot well. I use a Lee bullet in mine unsized just dipped in lube then I scrape the excess off with a fired case that I cut the head off. The Rifle I shoot the most is an 1866 and if will print 4 inch groups at 100 yards using 65 to 70 gr of FFG. It works well as I killed a buffalo two years ago with mine.

[Charlie, AKA The Deacon]

thank you for the replies, are mold is a 450 that cast a .515 that is what we are starting with and size down from their if need be. The barrel on this gun is mint so I hope we can get some good group size with it. Hope to have it up and going by this comming weekend!

[Mark Daiute]

North Cape Publications puts out a book by Richard Hosmer that covers the 58 and 50 Caliber rifles of Springfield Armory. You can get Richard's contact info from

http://www.trapdoorcollector.com/

or try:

http://www.the45-70book.com/books

IIRC some second model conversions were shortened at the Armory. Keep us posted!

[Charlie, AKA The Deacon]

Well I got out to shoot today, 65g of 2f and 450 gr. bullet the gunshot great exect for hitting real high at 50 and 100 yards with the front sight burried in the rear. Is their a front sight that your can replace the old style post with or is their something else I can do to get it down, I would like to have a 100 yard zero with this gun. The gunrealy surprized me I think we can have a real good shooter with this one just need to get the elivation under control.

[missionary5155]

Good morning
Being a Springfield check the throat... some get rather FAT. My 1866 type shoots much better with .518 boolits.

[oldhickory]

Well I got out to shoot today, 65g of 2f and 450 gr. bullet the gunshot great exect for hitting real high at 50 and 100 yards with the front sight burried in the rear. Is their a front sight that your can replace the old style post with or is their something else I can do to get it down, I would like to have a 100 yard zero with this gun. The gunrealy surprized me I think we can have a real good shooter with this one just need to get the elivation under control.

You can order either a solder on front sight, or a rear sight blank that can be filed to fit and drilled/notched, what-ever from Lodgewood. www.lodgewood.com Front sight should be the same contour as U.S. M1861-1863, (and file to zero) or you can grind off the blade and slot the base, soldering in a blank and file to zero. If you opt for a rear blank, it's a simple matter of replacing the leaf, finding zero and either drilling a "peep" or cutting and notching a "V". Either are made of very mild steel and easy to work.