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Thread: Annealing cases into jackets question

  1. #41
    Banned

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    wally world carries it.
    it's in the dishwashing soap stuff aisle.
    our local mom and pop is where i found the lemishine the first time.
    i was using a couple of lemonade flavored cool-aid and some lemon juice for a while.
    it turns your fingernails greenish though.
    hot water works best, and the couple of drops of liquid dish soap helps.

  2. #42
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    Yep searched the dishwashing aisle. Looks like I'll have to order online. Did pick up some PH pool reducer (acid) and it still workds great too.

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  3. #43
    Boolit Master
    a.squibload's Avatar
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    Mar 2010
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    CO
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    Popping brass

    I use a torch on rows of cases head up on tiles.
    Spray 'em with water to cool quicker.
    Sometimes water gets under 'em and they skitter around for a few seconds.
    Haven't had one pop.

  4. #44
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Honolulu
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    51
    Got these copper cleaning methods off the web:

    "by pintoshine » Wed Jan 30, 2008 7:54 am

    I have a couple more recommendations to try. I got these from a clock restoration site.

    Household ammonia. Reacts well with patina.

    Equal parts white vinegar and household ammonia. This reacts to create ammonia acetate, which is an extremely nice copper cleaner. It removes green and brown patina well. It is not very effective on copper oxide though.

    Muriatic acid straight from the jug and 32%.(my favorite for cleanning after annealing) and any diluted strength with heat and time will work.

    A one to one mixture of 3% hydrogen peroxide and muriatic acid. USE EXTREME CAUSTION, this is what I use to etch circuit boards)

    I have used all of these with varying results. Removing the black and red oxide from annealing is easiest with straight muriatic acid. It leaves the best finish and is the most expedient. I have not used it on green or blue patina yet."

    Personally, I think it is safer to pouring 1 to 2 parts of muriatic acid to 10 parts water to dilute the acid. Soak the brass in the dilute acid until it shines.
    Never pour water into strong acid as it may splatter and injure you!
    Muriatic acid (30% construction grade hydrochloric acid use to etch concrete) come in gallon jugs and is cheaply sold in building material stores. Follow all safety instructions!

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check