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Thread: rossi spring / teardown question

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
    lylejb's Avatar
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    rossi spring / teardown question

    I have a new Rossi single shot 22 / .410 2 barrel combo set. The hammer spring is RIDICULOUSLY, stiff. Way, way, over the top, hard to cock.

    My son can't cock it more than 2 or 3 times, and My thumb starts getting sore from the hammer serrations before we get through a box of 22's.

    I think this must be a "one size fits all" strength used in larger frames / calibers.
    I could maybe understand this if it was a 223 or a 308 that might get hard primer mil-surp ammo, but it's not.

    Looking at the (lousey) exploded diagram in the owners manual, this uses a single sided torsion spring, much like the newer H&R's.

    In fact, looking at the H&R's diagram / pictures at Numrich it looks Identical to me.

    So, If I pick up a replacement spring, how do I lighten / reduce the temper without ruining it totally?

    Maybe dip it in a lead melt, then oil Quench?

    Lead melt then air cool?

    Propane torch, then quench?

    Also, this reciever has no screws, it's all pins. Does anyone know if they drive out to the right, or left? Or does it matter?

    Thanks in advance.
    NRA life member

    LB

  2. #2
    Boolit Master ilcop22's Avatar
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    How old is the weapon? I.e., is it a recent purchase? I believe Rossi covers those under warranty repair for the first year.

    I can't answer your spring question, but that Rossi is actually rivited together, not pinned. Taking that gun to a smith would likely cost more than the Rossi does at MSRP.

    IMHO, contact Rossi before anything else. They should be able to repair/replace or give you some help.
    Who keeps not his arms in times of peace, Will have no arms in times of war.
    -Gaelic Proverb

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
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    Ilcop,

    Thanks for the reply.

    Yes, I know it's still in warranty, but I'm afraid if I sent it in it would just be returned as "normal - in spec". And it may well be.

    However their "spec" for this not what it should be, especially on a youth model.

    I've also heard Rossi / Taurus warrenty service times are long. I don't want to be without the gun for months +.

    A spring is a couple of bucks, I'm more than willing to invest that much.

    The rivited together worries me. I suppose I could go back together with a tight / oversize pin??

    Thanks for your reply
    NRA life member

    LB

  4. #4
    Boolit Master ilcop22's Avatar
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    Give 'em a call fist and see what they say. If the hammer is that hard to pull back, they may have suggestions before sending it in.

    My main worry is that you get the spring and it doesn't fit right or causes malfunctions. Once you go that route, warranty is out of the question and you have yourself a couple hundred dollar paperweight.

    Rivets are generally quite hard to remove and pins aren't guaranteed to hold rivited pieces together. I'll see if I can't find more info for ya.
    Who keeps not his arms in times of peace, Will have no arms in times of war.
    -Gaelic Proverb

  5. #5
    Black Powder 100%
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    Look up M&M Gunsmithing in VA. He does warranty work plus has a ton of parts.
    Shooter of the "HOLY BLACK" SASS 81802 AKA FAIRSHAKE; NRA ; BOLD; WARTHOG;Deadwood Marshal;Bayou Bounty Hunter; So That his place shall never be with those cold and timid souls who neither know victory nor defeat

  6. #6
    Boolit Master

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    In regard to the pins I think they go out to the right as you hold the gun in your shoulder. To be sure look closely at the head of the pins with a magnifying glass. Look for serrations on the head near the edge, you want to push that side out away from the receiver. You will need to make an assembly pin to put the trigger assy back in and use something to tie back the trigger to hold the trigger return spring. Those guns can be a real pain to reassemble! I don't know what to tell you on the spring.
    "The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is to fill the world with fools."
    Herbert Spencer (1891)

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check