.32 S&W Long rifle build

[John Taylor]

My lucky day, my brother called and said he had an old single shot 410 that he was going to give me. That is as soon as I return the two rifles that I am working on for him.

[FrankG]

Dug through my junk a little more an come up with the barrel for the action Now the fun begins !!

[FrankG]

Yer a bad influence Molly Got the barrel stubbed off at forcing cone and bored chamber along with forcing cone out just enough for sliding barrel in . I turned a little shoulder on back end of barrel to fit in rim recess thats left of chamber for 12 ga. rim . Ill just use acraglass to hold barrel in stub, should suffice for 32-20 . Figgered since I have dies for that round and a mould , why not ?

Ill have to figger a way to knock the plating off or try some guncote .

[John Taylor]

Yer a bad influence Molly Got the barrel stubbed off at forcing cone and bored chamber along with forcing cone out just enough for sliding barrel in . I turned a little shoulder on back end of barrel to fit in rim recess thats left of chamber for 12 ga. rim . Ill just use acraglass to hold barrel in stub, should suffice for 32-20 . Figgered since I have dies for that round and a mould , why not ?

Ill have to figger a way to knock the plating off or try some guncote .

You might chuck it up and give a nice radius cut on the mono block to blend into the new barrel. Make it look purdy! Looken good so far.

[Molly]

Yer a bad influence Molly Got the barrel stubbed off at forcing cone and bored chamber along with forcing cone out just enough for sliding barrel in . I turned a little shoulder on back end of barrel to fit in rim recess thats left of chamber for 12 ga. rim . Ill just use acraglass to hold barrel in stub, should suffice for 32-20 . Figgered since I have dies for that round and a mould , why not ?
Ill have to figger a way to knock the plating off or try some guncote .

As John said, looking good! And yeah, accraglass will hold a 32-20 like the rock of Gibraltar. One little note though: The receiver finish isn't plating. It's color case hardening. It'll come off easy as pie with a little bit of phosphoric acid or naval jelly. Or with any blue / corrosion cleaner. "CLP" outta do it almost as fast as you can wipe it on too.

When you go to refinish it, use a good cold blue like Oxphoblue. Caustic tanks will turn it a pruplish-red.

[FrankG]

This'n doesnt have the color case finish unless its under the nickle plate thats peeling off . Its nickled like on old 32 pocket peestol. I may just clean it up with a flap wheel and use some of the bake on finish on receiver if I cant get all nickle out of nooks and crannies. Yup ! That Oxpho is super stuff ! Especially after bead blasting and warming metal a little

Got the radious cut on stub where it meets barrel and its glassed on barrel and curing in sun . Its warmer outside than in shop !

[Molly]

This'n doesnt have the color case finish unless its under the nickle plate thats peeling off . Its nickled like on old 32 pocket peestol. I may just clean it up with a flap wheel and use some of the bake on finish on receiver if I cant get all nickle out of nooks and crannies. Yup ! That Oxpho is super stuff ! Especially after bead blasting and warming metal a little

Got the radious cut on stub where it meets barrel and its glassed on barrel and curing in sun . Its warmer outside than in shop !

Well, you've got it in hand, so you ought to know. If so, you might want to check with a local plating shop: I have a fading memory that nickle plate won't stick to steel, but it will stick fine to copper. So platers will plate the steel with copper (which sticks fine) first and THEN with nickle. Going on a fading memory here, but I seem to rember this was part of an answer to a guy whose nickle revolver was peeling after he'd coated it with a bore solvent that was supposed to attach jacketed fouling. It didn't happen fast, but it was sure.

Well, enough rambling. I'd take it to a plating shop before I did anything else. They'll know how to get it off right, and probably won't charge an arm and a leg to do it for you.

[FrankG]

Closest shop for that is 80 miles from here.

[Molly]

Closest shop for that is 80 miles from here.

I can see the problem, but a phone call is cheap, and postage isn't that bad. It's legal to ship part of a gun for repairs or refinishing. Shoot, I THINK you can mail the entire gun, but if it's the whole gun, it'd better be to a FFL licensee.

John Taylor, how about some guidance?

[Mk42gunner]

FrankG,

Let me preface this by stating that I haven't done it, but I have read that old plating can be removed by using a process similar to the electrolysis cleaning method.

I do not rmember what chemical you need to suspend the parts in, but it seems like it was a fairly common one, of course that was a few years ago when you could stil buy cough medicine without signing your life away.

Robert

[FrankG]

Been doin some reading and found where muratic acid can be used but you end up with the copper plate left . Also said you could sandblast to remove it which would remove copper also . I have a blaster so may give that a go .

[Molly]

Been doin some reading and found where muratic acid can be used but you end up with the copper plate left . Also said you could sandblast to remove it which would remove copper also . I have a blaster so may give that a go .

Ummm ... 'Lessn I miss my guess, that will give you a pretty good etch on the underlying steel too, which could make opening and closing slightly rough until it's broken in smooth again ... Just a thought.

[FrankG]

Yup , it will . Ill mask in any areas that are bearing surfaces like when doing bolt guns .

Im more concerned with the ugly peeling on the sides from being knocked around for 100 years .

[Molly]

Yup , it will . Ill mask in any areas that are bearing surfaces like when doing bolt guns .

Im more concerned with the ugly peeling on the sides from being knocked around for 100 years .

Can you say 'surface grinder'?

[justashooter]

20-40% sulfuric acid in a glass bowl. lead plate with surface area about equal to part to be deplated. copper wires from lead plate and part, which is suspended in solution above plate. positive side of a 12 volt battery or charger at 10 amps to the workpiece and negative end to the plate. works fast and makes some fume, so do it outside. eats nickle and chrome, obliterates aluminum, ignores copper, brass, gold, etc. mildly etches steel left in for long periods after plating is gone. nice to dip parts in a chromic acid bath between sulfuric bath and water rinse, but not necessary if steel will be polished or otherwise surfaced after removal of plating.

[justashooter]

how about an ithaca 49 as a donor gun? this is an aluminum framed martini type 22 rf single shot rifle. converting to cf would be easy enuf. the quex is, would the aluminum action be up to snuff for 32 long?

[John Taylor]

I can see the problem, but a phone call is cheap, and postage isn't that bad. It's legal to ship part of a gun for repairs or refinishing. Shoot, I THINK you can mail the entire gun, but if it's the whole gun, it'd better be to a FFL licensee.

John Taylor, how about some guidance?

The frame has the S/N which is the part classified as a firearm.It can be sent to any FFL holder for repair and directly back to the sender or another FFL.
A smith I worked for many years ago said that acid was used to remove nickel. But first the acid was given a heavy diet of steel or iron till it would not dissolve any more. This way the nickel came off without attacking the base metal. Also it can be taken off by reversing the polarity in a plating tank but this may attack the frame also. Best to call a shop that does nickel plating and get the strait dope.

[John Taylor]

how about an ithaca 49 as a donor gun? this is an aluminum framed martini type 22 rf single shot rifle. converting to cf would be easy enuf. the quex is, would the aluminum action be up to snuff for 32 long?

22LR has a breach bolt thrust of 1,085, 32 S&W is at 1,327, 32 H&R is 1,855. While the Martini stile action is considered strong enough I don't know about the aluminum holding up. The 410 shotgun has a bolt thrust of 2,332, 38 special is 1,937, 357 mag is 3,988. Sometimes doing the numbers opens your eyes a bit, the 32 ACP has more bolt thrust than the 32 S&W long. And the little 25 auto that everyone thinks has no power has a bolt thrust of 1,327, same as the 32 S&W.

[rbertalotto]

This is a great thread! I'd love to take one of those newer Cz SXS shotguns in 410 and build a DR in 327 Federal.................Sweet!

In answer to how dopes one legally take rifles and shotguns out of the country for hunting. Getting them out of the country is relatively easy to Africa and Canada.....getting them back in needs paperwork to prove they were here to begin with.

Canada requires you to register your guns to be used there. It is a one time registration and as long as the same gun is being used on a subsequent hunt, registration isn't needed again. But you do need to keep the paperwork....

If you go by the book, it really isn't too difficult.

[klcarroll]

...........I got a letter saying I had to appear in court for violating the home land security act........ .

I have come to the conclusion that ANYONE who is the sort of American that understands Jefferson and Adams is probably in violation of The Homeland Security Act!!! (....A piece of legislation that HAD to have been written in East Germany!)

"Times, ...they are a'changing!" .......There are more and more moments when I am perversely pleased to be approaching "The Big Dirt Nap"! ( ....I simply don't belong in this century.)

Kent