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Thread: Older molds and proper storage

  1. #1
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    New Albany, Mississippi
    Posts
    32

    Older molds and proper storage

    All

    A friend brought several of his molds for my use and keeping in our 2 man club... (I'm retired and he aint). Several were stored in old pickle and mayo jars in a desiccant. They seem ok but I may have to break the jars to get them out.

    Others were loose of attached to handles. they all have a lead bullet with sprue attached inside the molds. Some are aluminum, others steel or brass (Lyman, RCBS, MOE, MP, SAECO, others). The steel ones have a rust layer on the surface of the blocks (thin).

    MY QUESTION: Should I try to open the molds now and clean then? I have heard that many soak their stored molds in KROIL as a rust prevention... What say ye???

    moose

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master Outpost75's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    over the hill, out in the woods and far away
    Posts
    10,169
    Don't open, just immerse in Kroil as they are and store in ZipLok bags.

  3. #3
    Le Loup Solitaire
    Guest
    There are a few different ways to successfully store molds and if the method you have chosen is working then that is ok. I have not used dessicants, but have preferred to use a product called "Clenzoil" which is a hydrocarbon based substance. It also is used as a cleaning agent for rifles, pistols and shotguns. It also has rust preventing qualities. I have used it for many decades; placed the molds then in a sealable plastic bag and then in small jar or a GI ammo can. Never had a rust problem. However the mold when it has to be used must be cleaned/de-oiled with a solvent such as acetone or mineral spirits (nasty to work with so do so with good ventilation around) and Q-tips, then dry with a hair dryer and pre-heat as you would normally do. All my molds are iron including H&G, Lyman, RCBS and Saeco. Product can be found on the net. LLS

  4. #4
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    New Albany, Mississippi
    Posts
    32
    thanks

  5. #5
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    31
    As far as cleaning the light rust off the mould both inside and out I bought some Naval Jelly made by Lock Tite at Wally World for about $5 and after letting it sit on my Lyman single cavity for NO MORE than 10 min the mould was completely rust free. After that I washed the mould with very hot water to get the cleaner off, dried it WELL and then sprayed it down with Rem Oil and wrapped it in a cloth and put in plastic bag.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check