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Thread: rebounding hammer modify?

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
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    rebounding hammer modify?

    I recall a thread that talked about someone taking care of the rebounding hammer either by modifying or eliminating it. Is this a possibility on a Win '94 angle eject? If so, anyone point me in the right direction and I would appreciate the heck out of it! Would like to do myself if do-able like that.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master

    fecmech's Avatar
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    I've played around with my 94AE .357and came to this conclusion. If you are using the AE parts you can shorten the bottom legs on the hammer spring guide and get rid of about half of the rebounding effect. This will let you go a little lighter on the hammer spring for a slightly lighter trigger and still get reliable ignition. If you take the bottom legs off totally you can get rid of the rebound effect but in my case the upper leg would sometimes slip out of the notch on the hammer and tie up the gun. If you decide to do it order another hammer spring guide or two, they are only a couple bucks and then when you go too far you will know on the next one how much to take off. My trigger is right at 2 3/4 Lbs and decent but I've played with it quite a bit and changed the sear angle slightly. The best thing if you can find an old parts gun and swap out the whole lower tang, hammer,trigger and all from one of the older 94's.
    "The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is to fill the world with fools."
    Herbert Spencer (1891)

  3. #3
    Boolit Master

    MtGun44's Avatar
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    The reasone I reduced the rebound on my 1886 Ltwt (new production) was that the
    darned thing misfired about half the time. If your rifle is reliable, like my 94 AE is, I'd
    leave it alone.

    Bill
    If it was easy, anybody could do it.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
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    Well, my one 94AE (earlier) doesn't have the problem but this newer one misfires about every 3 or 4 shots. I tried a new spring and spring guide so never would have guessed it was the rebounding hammer since I didn't even see how it worked until now. I will tackle that after I finish fitting the new walnut stock to the rear of it to replace the ill fitting plastic one it came with. Next, will go for the extractor spring. This rifle was just a real POS! Fun for a project rifle-I'm learning alot. It's real accurate whenever it decides to fire one off!

    Thanks you guys for the help. I think that should solve the problem of misfires. Take off half of the lower legs on the spring guide...OK...

  5. #5
    Boolit Master

    Larry Gibson's Avatar
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    My current (it's also a keeper) M94AE also would miss fire every 3 - 4 shots. I shortened the lower legs as mentioned but it did not help. I took the push button safety out to modify it so it wouldn't work. For a lark I shot the rifle for a while without the push button safety in the rifle. It fired every time. I then noticed that the undersid curved part of the hammer was also hitting the push button safety cushening the blow. I ground off a little of the bottom of the push button safety for clearence and that solved the problem.

    The push button safety is redundant as there is a hammer block also that prevents the hammer from hitting the firing pin unless the trigger is pulled the same as in most all modern revolvers. The rifle is entirely safe with out the push button safety. Mine is back in the rifle but it is just cosmetic now.

    Larry Gibson

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
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    Thanks Larry, like I said before, I never would have thought of some of this stuff so will check that too. I'll give that a shot first and see since I was going to try to eliminate that button too. My earlier version doesn't have the redundant safety. I read an article about doing that on Marlins and it doesn't look that hard to make one of those.

    Once again, thanks a heap!

  7. #7
    Boolit Master ktw's Avatar
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    I have a 94AE Trapper//tang safety that was 100% reliable. I wanted a lighter trigger pull and installed a lighter hammer coil spring. This made it unreliable with trimmed down 454 Casull brass and small rifle primers, although it still shoots CCI LPM primers in 45 Colt brass without a hitch.

    Someday I will try shortening the bottom leg of the hammer spring guide, but for the time being I'm content to just stick with LP primers.

    -ktw
    Last edited by ktw; 08-15-2010 at 06:50 PM.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master
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    Having removed the safety and finding out it wasn't hitting on mine, I carefully ground off about 3/16" of the lower legs and now...wham! The hammer smashes the firing pin in every time. I don't see how it was even firing before.

    So, the grinding of the lower legs really did the trick on this one. Glad I asked...Thanks guys!

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check