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Thread: formula for home made swaging lube

  1. #21
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
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    6
    Hi Guys
    I know it's an old thread but I'm new to this. Got the lube made up, going to use a tumbler (3lb). I see putting a weighed amount on a piece of wax paper is a method used. I don't see how much to put on a piece of paper. Any ideas or advice? I want this to work without the jackets being too greasy or dry. A starting point would be appreciated.

  2. #22
    Boolit Master Linstrum's Avatar
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    Mar 2005
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    Otero County, New Mexico
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    From my experience, it is kind of like writing with a pen where you don't have to worry about getting too much ink on the paper even though there is enough ink in the pen to make a big puddle, the ink takes care of itself. Above a certain amount more lube just won't stick to the boolit. For starters just throw a tablespoon or two of lube in the tumbler and see how it looks.

    rl 1,197
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    There is no such thing as too many tools, especially when it comes to casting and reloading.
    Howard Hughes said: "He who has the tools rules".

    Safe casting and shooting!

    Linstrum, member F.O.B.C. (Fraternal Order of Boolit Casters), Shooters.com alumnus, and original alloutdoors.com survivor.

  3. #23
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    BT Sniper's Avatar
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    Table spoon is an awful not of lube. For a quart size Ziploc bag ful of 22lr jackets I use a pea size to a bean size amount of lube.
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  4. #24
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
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    What the world calls "Global Warming", we in Arizona call "Summer Time."
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    This may be off topic just a bit but not to much.

    When I started swaging I didn't have any lube and I wasn't sure what would work for me. I figured that anything with the slightest amount of lubricity was better than no lube at all so I tried WD-40, Gun Oil, Machine Oil, Alox and a number of other things; and they all worked better than nothing but they were messy. Some would eventually start to bind.

    I happened to have a tube of Ultra-Lube that I'd bought to lube my air guns with and to my surprise it's worked out fabulously. Just a super thin film of this stuff goes a long way; at least for me. It's like a cream lithium grease.

    If I remember correctly, it cost me about seven-bucks at the homedepot hardware store. It's not messy at all and it wipes right off when you do get some where you don't want it. If I only used this stuff on swaging projects, the small tube I have would probably last the rest of my life but, I use it on lots of other things as well so eventually I'll buy another tube of this stuff.

    Of course, home made lubes are good too but, I don't know if they're any cheaper when you add up any costs for ingredients.

    HollowPoint
    Last edited by HollowPoint; 11-12-2014 at 03:08 PM.

  5. #25
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    NW Missouri
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    346
    Blackmon advised me to use 1 lb of anhydrous lanolin and 20 oz of caster oil.

    I mixed with the kitchen aid mixer, warmed in the oven until liquid, stirred again, and poured into containers to set up.

    I suspect my current 2lb 4 oz supply will last my great grandchildren a long time.

  6. #26
    Boolit Buddy marten's Avatar
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    Apr 2011
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    UK
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    186
    Castrol R 2 stroke racing oil. No need of lanolin!
    “Son, self praise is no recommendation.”
    self-ag·gran·dize·ment n. The act or practice of enhancing or exaggerating one's own importance, power, or reputation.



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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check