Peeved at Lyman 4500 and myself:(

[9.3X62AL]

Thanks for the clarification, Bill and Bret. That toggle won't be a problem for me, I use a box-end wrench on the current Lyman 450 in place of the ratchet, because I back the pressure off 1/3 turn between boolits as I'm sizing. Much less leakage that way.

[Elkins45]

Thanks for the clarification, Bill and Bret. That toggle won't be a problem for me, I use a box-end wrench on the current Lyman 450 in place of the ratchet, because I back the pressure off 1/3 turn between boolits as I'm sizing. Much less leakage that way.

What part of the sizer are you getting leakage from?

[Dutchman]

Since you have a machine shop and it by the sounds of things you have a lathe: Once you make a "slip" lube die retaining sleeve as I’ll call it and have the housing tapped you could put the sleeve into the machine and tighten down the set screws enough to leave marks. Next take the die sleeve out and turn it on the lathe where the set screws are aligned that way there is a small groove all the way around it for the screws to lock into. I would imagine this would be easier than trying to line up a divot/detent as you had suggested.

That sleeve is thin. I don't know if it could support a groove like that. Other than that it's a good way to mark the spot for the little indents on each side of the slip lube die retaining sleeve. Dang, it takes longer to write that than to make one.

Dutch

[Bret4207]

Did you think of doing the old field expedient trick of getting another nut, grinding or cutting a cutting edge on it and using it as a tap to chase the threads? Or maybe just call Lyman and see what they'd charge to chase the threads? I'd at least find out what the thread is and see if a tap could be borrowed or rented. Once the threads were chased and new nut obtained I'd do the thumbscrew thing.

[Elkins45]

That sleeve is thin. I don't know if it could support a groove like that. Other than that it's a good way to mark the spot for the little indents on each side of the slip lube die retaining sleeve. Dang, it takes longer to write that than to make one.

Dutch

Instead of the groove why not just drill holes thru it that align with the set screws? It would require precision when you install it but should work otherwise.

[fryboy]

a thought ( tho thoughts are a dime a dozen lolz ) if u made a new one and used the dual set screws couldnt one machine it kind of like the breech block and twist lock on the lee and hornady press inserts ? ie: a couple of grooves and stubs( set screws) ??? that would have to be a faster change out .......

[Dutchman]

Did you think of doing the old field expedient trick of getting another nut, grinding or cutting a cutting edge on it and using it as a tap to chase the threads? Or maybe just call Lyman and see what they'd charge to chase the threads? I'd at least find out what the thread is and see if a tap could be borrowed or rented. Once the threads were chased and new nut obtained I'd do the thumbscrew thing.

The threads are stripped at several points in the casting itself. I really think the body threads are unusable for this purpose anymore.

That die retaining nut is very thin. IMO, it was a poor or insufficient design. It needs more beef.

Dutch

[Dutchman]

Instead of the groove why not just drill holes thru it that align with the set screws? It would require precision when you install it but should work otherwise.

This would probably work ok. I'll consider doing it this way when the time comes.


Dutch

[Dutchman]

a thought ( tho thoughts are a dime a dozen lolz ) if u made a new one and used the dual set screws couldnt one machine it kind of like the breech block and twist lock on the lee and hornady press inserts ? ie: a couple of grooves and stubs( set screws) ??? that would have to be a faster change out .......

There's just not enough to work with for this idea. It's not a bad idea but I don't think it's viable for this situation. Faster isn't a factor. Secure is what's important.

Dutch

[MtGun44]

Dutchman,

If you are up for the machine work, make a bushing set to replace the top punch
rod with an inner rod to drive and align a line boring hand driven tool. Single point
out the old threads, or just leave them and use a home made non-standard tap
to recut bigger and slightly coarser threads. Then make a nice beefy new retaining
nut to whatever size & pitch you wind up with. Basically make a line boring rig in
the top bore and recut the threads that way. Come to think of it, you'd have the
world's most accurate 4500 if you did it this way!

Gonna be a bunch of machine work but like the man said "If some man made it,
some other man can fix it."

Only worth it if you have more time than money, but it can be salvaged. Your
'exhange rate' between time and money is set by you and any potential
"fun factor" you might see in the job, or maybe the opportunity to have an
extra accurate alignment between top punches and the dies.

Might a RCBS nut be bigger outside so you could buy the nut (which will fit on
the inside - same die sizes) and then make a short little tap?

Bill

[johnlaw484]

You may find that the threads of the casting are harder
and in better shape than the threads on the nut -
that was my experience.

If they are even semi OK, it may be worth it to try a replacement
nut and see if you can save it. When I told them my nut was
stripped, but the body wasn't, Lyman sent me one nut for free!
I was warned that if it didn't work, they couldn't do
anything else warranty-wise.

It worked.

Nowadays I install the top punch, fit the nut to the top of the die,
slide it on the top punch, and gently seat the whole assembly
into the body and use the top punch and the bottom of the ram
against the nut to line it up and keep it straight, using just
gentle pressure the whole time until it is in contact with the body.

Then I turn the nut backwards until I feel the "click" of the threads
to find the starting leade and, still against the ram, start the nut,
with fingers and then a large open end wrench when too tight
for fingers, and finish off with the Lyman wrench with the ram up.

It tightens up fine and has worked well for three years now.

In the very worst case, clean it up, epoxy or JB weld in your
favorite caliber die, and make it a dedicated machine for that
diameter, that way you can still get some use out of it.

Hope this helps you....

..

Yep! What he said. I have done mine (Lachmiller) that way for for 40 years. That being said and the new nut idea does not work I would go with the set screw idea.
I trained a Lyman jr Press to accept standard shell holders that way

[dicko]

I've worried about that happening to my sizers, too. I usually insert a sizer die into the body with the retaining nut FULLY-seated flush on top of the die, and GENTLY start it with the nut wrench. My mentor Leo Reyes showed me that method, and has yet to fail me--KNOCK ON WOOD.

Yeah, that's how I do it, very carefully. I have one other refinement - I lay the spanner across the nut, and lower the ram on to it, and press the die in. I know the ram alignment might not be 100% but its close enough to pretty much guarantee squareness. The fine thread plus the big diameter plus lube caking the threads invites cross threading if you don't get it right. I've wondered what I'd do with a crossed thread. Not impossible to repair but so awkward in my opinion that it is not worth the effort.

[Dale53]

This suggests if a feller or gal was about to buy one to buy an RCBS. With their record of replacement at no cost, if this would happen to the RCBS you wouldn't be out the cost of a replacement.

Just a thought...

I have both RCBS and Lyman but use my Star for all plain base pistol bullets.

I DO like either the RCBS or Lyman for gas checked bullets.

Dale53

[leadman]

Hope Dutch can fix his.
I have 2 RCBS lubers and invert a shellholder on top of the nut and use a large top punvh, then lower the top punch onto the shellholder and it squares up the nut.
Do as others and back up the nut until it clicks.

[mtgrs737]

PM Lathesmith and see if he will make you a slightly oversized nut that will cut new threads in the casting body. He made me an oversized lube plunger for one of my Star lubersizers that had a worn bronze bushing and it works like a champ!