STP Oil Treatment ... What Does it Do?

[303Guy]

After a little research I found that Molybdenum disulfide can actually be corrosive in barrel steel in that it attracts moisture and is trapped underneath the coat of moly.

It does the same to motorbike drive chains!

[fryboy]

Oh, and I looked today to see how much lube I had in stock. 2 lb of the recipe I posted, 2 lb of another recipe "in progress", and about 4 lb of a tub of 44 Orange I've been shooting pistol boolits out of for 10 or more years! Rifles boolits get "the recipe" because of the lack of leading at high velocities.

44 orange is one i havent heard of ....to make it even more interesting u state " " 4# tub of " , when i google it i find several liqueurs a couple of cosmetics and a few addresses . care to share some details ?

as for moly .....it's best in stainless steel barrels or much used guns , cleaning the barrel before long term or humid storage ( that kinda negates part of the beauty of moly but ) moly does work if one is aware of it's limitations , the lyman moly lube also works well ( for me ) but the blasted mess of it leaves me umm messy , i've tried cutting it down with other lubes with some small medium of success ,my varmint rig's j-words usually get moly'd

[cbrick]

I agree with Lloyd Smale in post #28. For all the lube testing in rifles I did a few years back (about 12-15 different lubes) every single one of them prevented leading completely. Only by careful grouping from the bench did I find a difference in accuracy between the lubes.

The worst accuracy was with each lube that contained synthetic lube which was kinda surprising, I had high hopes for these space age concoctions. Perhaps I wasn't running enough pressure for the synthetics, the tests used a 180 gr boolit at 1900 fps in a 308. The bottom line is that if I could no longer get my current commercial lube I wouldn't hesitate to use any one of those lubes unless I was trying to win a bench rest match.

But I thought cost savings and simplicity was the major factors in making your own lube.

No, at least not for me. The need to experiment and see "what if" reigns supreme.

Rick

[Recluse]

It works great on die turrets and keeps the plastic "gear" from breaking if the rest is lubes. I use it for Ruger cylinder pins also. I have never seen a need for it in my lube.

I use Lee Liquid Alox on my dies to prevent rust during storage--especially my Lee dies where the handles are included. A q-tip soaked with LLA is usually all I need to completely treat one two-cavity mold. Since doing this, I have had zero rust ever appear on any mold I've treated with LLA.

Embarrassing, but I've never even thought about it for my dies and turrets. . . good idea as a lube for the plastic parts, too. Gonna try both.

The worst accuracy was with each lube that contained synthetic lube which was kinda surprising, I had high hopes for these space age concoctions.

Same exact experience. HUGE disappointment for me.

I thought I had a really, potentially kick-butt formula going using some synthetics. Took forever to get it blended as the melting points were extremely high, and I ruined a previous batch letting the temps get out of hand and melting in the wrong order, etc.

Finally get this batch cooked up, poured in the molds and cooled down. Couple of days later, I lubed up some boolits, loaded them up with known accuracy/match loads and headed to the range.

One load wouldn't even stay on the paper at 25 yards! Went back home, loaded up several different calibers (rifle and handgun), went back to the range few days later, repeated the exercise.

Worst lube I ever came up with. No leading, but zero accuracy or consistency no matter what caliber or what load. In the trash it went. Live and learn.

The need to experiment and see "what if" reigns supreme.

Rick

Rick, same thing with me. I'm fond of saying that at this stage of my casting, reloading and shooting life, I enjoy the journey more than the destination. The quest of discovery for a "what if" proposition is what drives me more than anything, it seems.

[Charlie Sometimes]

I will get the info I have on the 44 Orange and post it later today. It's up in the shop.

As to synthetics and velocity- I think faster is probably the key. It's not as functional in the "traditional" range of velocities experienced with cast boolits. I couldn't get some loads to group well enough to call it a group at lower velocity with the above recipe until I jacked up the charge weight of the load.
Using the recipe containing STP, I have pushed 22 Hornet loads (225415 & 225438 w/ 13 gr. of Lil Gun- Max!) to 2600 or better; a 30-06 load with 311299 and around 48 gr. of IMR 4831. I've also used it on lower velocity lever gun 45-70 loads, CAS 45 Colt, and 38 Spl loads so far, too. I received good to great accuracy with the Hornet loads from either bullet (@12.5 gr.), but not so well with the '06 load. No leading either way, but the '06 load was not specificlly tailored to my rifle- it was just several "sample" loadings to try out. (I've got more work to do there with a different boolit and powder soon.) It works really good in the micro-groove Marlin 45-70 loads, too with a Lee boolits sized at 459 over Trail Boss or Unique at Trap Door velocities.

FWIW- the 22 Hornet grouping results (targets) are still posted on some of my other threads. I'm working on 221 Rem FB now, and soon the 222 Rem, I hope. I need to post some of my 45-70 targets soon, too.

I'm fond of saying that at this stage of my casting, reloading and shooting life, I enjoy the journey more than the destination.

I enjoy both, really- there's the satisfaction of the journey, and also of having navigated to the destination accurately!

[geargnasher]

For lubing plastic, particularly Lee press parts, I use a wet silicone spray lube with NO petroleum, and for dump chutes and primer feeds I use Jig-a-Loo dry lube spray.

Liquid alox is a really good autobody rustproofer, I think it was originally designed for rust proofing offshore oil platforms.

Gear

[mtgrs737]

So .... is the 75% BW and 25% Bullplate the official recipe for Speed Green?

Acorrding to the Bullshop it is. It seems to work fine in everything I have tried it in so far.

[Charlie Sometimes]

44 orange is one i havent heard of ....to make it even more interesting u state " " 4# tub of " , when i google it i find several liqueurs a couple of cosmetics and a few addresses . care to share some details?

44 Orange was manufactured by Multi-Standard in Butternut, WI.
It contains polytetraethylene (at the time- the slipperiest substance know to man), and has a melting point slightly higher than 50/50 alox/beeswax. It also conforms to FDA regs for food contact. I don't know what the base is, but it is a semi-transparent orange color.
My info and price list is from April 1992- and the bulk 64 oz. tub was $30 then! I don't know if they are still in business or not. A buddy who bought a bunch of these (which is where I got mine) said he tried a while back to contact them, but had no luck. He is running low on his stock after all these years.
I've got 3/4 of this one left. I haven't used it much because I pan lubed most all of my pistol boolits until recently, even though I had a lubesizer, and I used another "Love Potion #9" concoction then. That has changed since I got into casting and shooting rifle boolits within the last 5 years or so. 44 Orange is what's in my lubesizer now, and I have had no issues with it.

Hope this was helpful.

[Charlie Sometimes]

According to the Bullshop it is. It seems to work fine in everything I have tried it in so far.

There is a similar product currently being sold on E-Bay. No names are mentioned, but is this someone else pushing the bullplate product?

[Slingshot]

Howdy,

I use this stuff exclusively for my pistol and rifle loads. I use it in my 30-06 loads pushing a 195 Gr. Lyman 311679 bullet around 2100 FPS with no leading at all, the barrel looks real clean even after shooting 50 rounds. Works well in a lubesizer. Not great for pan lubing. Here is their current contact info:
Multi-Standard M-S
MTL Synthetic Bullet Lube
11109 County Rd. B
Butternut, WI 54514-9746
715-769-3499

I just bought 4 lbs. for 46.00 (includes postage) I cut the tub open and melted the lube down and poured it into smaller trays for easier handling. I usually melt small amounts and pour into my lyman Lube sizer. My father bought about a case of lube sticks from them years ago and finally ran out. The original 44 Orange Lube was more Red then orange. Now it is Orange in color. Same recipie though.

If and when you do call the guy will answer with a "Hello" not a standard greeting for a business but hey I just asked if they are still selling the stuff and he said yea just in bulk. I think they sell in 2lb. and 4lb. tubs. They are also selling a 1 1/2 lb. tub of a High velocity lube, forgot the name. They state that they push a 150 Gr. bullet at 2500 FPS with no leading. I haven't used it. Works great for me with less smoke when shooting pistol at indoor range. No I do not work for them Merry X-Mas to all

Slingshot / Jeff



[QUOTE=Charlie Sometimes;945189]44 Orange was manufactured by Multi-Standard in Butternut, WI.
It contains polytetraethylene (at the time- the slipperiest substance know to man), and has a melting point slightly higher than 50/50 alox/beeswax. It also conforms to FDA regs for food contact. I don't know what the base is, but it is a semi-transparent orange color.
My info and price list is from April 1992- and the bulk 64 oz. tub was $30 then! I don't know if they are still in business or not. A buddy who bought a bunch of these (which is where I got mine) said he tried a while back to contact them, but had no luck.

[ubetcha]

I think I may have mentioned this on another thread but a simple mix made by Ed Harris is 1 part ATF to 3-4 parts beeswax.
4 parts BW to 1 part ATF is for a lubersizer
3 parts BW to 1 part ATF is for pan lubing.
work well up to 2000 fps in Ed's experience

[Hang Fire]

I wonder if the mountain men of old had any leading and if they did how they got rid of it?

EW

Uh, by using patched balls.

[mdi]

I guess I might be the odd man out?? I want a lube that works with the fewest ingredients possible. Mebbe that's why I like "my" Speed Green (B&B; Bullplate and Beeswax).

[JPUP]

I take a simple approach with my cast .45 bullets. I use STP oil Treatment. I take half a tea spoon and put it in my smelter with the lead. It will Flash with a good flame soon after and once the fire is out, I stir it good. I find my bullets cast clean with a polished gleam. Once cooled they have a slight slick feel to them with no noticeable loss of hardness. I have no leading or mess to deal with. I am sure many will attack this process. Kinda simple really.

[wlc]

I take a simple approach with my cast .45 bullets. I use STP oil Treatment. I take half a tea spoon and put it in my smelter with the lead. It will Flash with a good flame soon after and once the fire is out, I stir it good. I find my bullets cast clean with a polished gleam. Once cooled they have a slight slick feel to them with no noticeable loss of hardness. I have no leading or mess to deal with. I am sure many will attack this process. Kinda simple really.

Your saying you are only fluxing with the STP and not lubing the boolits after they have been cast? Interesting.

[Socal147]

The best all around homemade lube is:
One pound of Bees Wax
One pound of Crisco
3 ounces of Carnauba Wax

All brought to a melt, mixed well, and allowed to cool.

Nothing better in the whole wide world.


Or I just buy from White Label Lube. It is all good!

[xringshutr]

If you haven't tried Speed Green, you owe it to yourself to give it a shot. Two ingredients, super easy to make, pour it direct into the sizer or make sticks. It flows with little or no heat, but isn't sticky or messy for storage and handling. Not a lot to dislike. Just a great all around lube.
Of course, I will be giving the OP's lube recipe a try, just because I like to experiment.

[357maximum]

This thread will never die....mwuu ha ha ha


FWIW I am still damn proud of my words in post #2.....but rabidly ashamed at how much time and money it took me to get to the point I could make myself believe the concrete proof staring me in the face everytime I took a trip up to the target board. Bit hard headed I am I am.

[btroj]

Hard headed? No, say it ain't so!

Must be something about fooling around with lube that makes guys get hard headed.

STP, in my opinion, mostly adds stickiness to a lube.

[357maximum]

Brad...I believe you have the causeation in reverse....hard headed folks are prone to cook loob methinks.