STP Oil Treatment ... What Does it Do?

[riverwalker76]

I got to thinking ......

I'm wondering if the STP is used to help 'coagulate' or keep the lube together at the higher temps? After all ... the whole purpose of it is to thicken oil. Wonder if it adds the 'X' factor for higher viscosity and temps?

[fryboy]

it does add "slickery" to it and also thins the mix if too much is added ( kinda like a liquid vaseline with additives )

[geargnasher]

I got to thinking ......

I'm wondering if the STP is used to help 'coagulate' or keep the lube together at the higher temps? After all ... the whole purpose of it is to thicken oil. Wonder if it adds the 'X' factor for higher viscosity and temps?

Depending upon what else is in the lube, I'll bet that STP has the lowest viscosity of the mix, so there really isn't anything to "thicken" there. The carrier or base of the lube, being either beeswax or petroleum wax, has pores in it's structure that soak up the oils like a sponge, so the real function of STP is lube and anti-galling agent.

Gear

[Charlie Sometimes]

I got to thinking ......

I'm wondering if the STP is used to help 'coagulate' or keep the lube together at the higher temps? After all ... the whole purpose of it is to thicken oil. Wonder if it adds the 'X' factor for higher viscosity and temps?

I forgot to mention in my post with the recipe that it has to be melted and mixed in the order listed, too.
Maybe the STP helps with the blending of components.

All I know is, that recipe sure does work- as good as anything I've ever tried before! I've got enough of it made up to do me a while, too- but not as much as 357maximum's stash!

[riverwalker76]

This is kind of off topic a little, but I have a small 4 quart crock pot that I'm not using anymore. Could I use that on a low setting to melt the wax?

[MT Gianni]

I do know that Richard Lee recommend's it to lubricate different part's of Lee tool's.

It works great on die turrets and keeps the plastic "gear" from breaking if the rest is lubes. I use it for Ruger cylinder pins also. I have never seen a need for it in my lube.

[fryboy]

This is kind of off topic a little, but I have a small 4 quart crock pot that I'm not using anymore. Could I use that on a low setting to melt the wax?

yup tho it maybe a lil more than low setting ..kinda depends upon the crockpot beeswax is the low temp part ( scorched beeswax doesnt work as well) i think safe was around 160-165 , some ingredients allow more heat safely

[Lloyd Smale]

you can use about any lube in a good gun and wont have leading. Where some lubes really work better is if your looking for accuracy. Ive seen where just changing lube cut my groups in half with a sixgun so call it witches brew or whatever you want but theres only a few lubes out there that i will buy or make because they just give bettter accuracy. Lately i havent had time to make the lubes i used the most and thankfully lars makes a couple good ones at prices that are as cheap as making it yourself. before him it was mostly lbt and that stuffs expensive. dont fool yourself into thinking you can just mix wax with lube oil or grease and have the ultimate lube. What your getting is a lube that will get by.

[mosinman]

Hi folks, I normally don't hang out at this forum but I did notice the title and thought I'd toss in my two cents .

The variations of the basic Darr Lube recipe (50/50 paraffin/vaseline) that I've seen had a couple spoonfuls of either STP, Dextron ATF, or Marvel Mystery oil added. Might be wrong, but are not all of these red in color?

Seems to me the additives give a pink tint to the lube, making it more visible and identifiable. Probably a few bright Crayolas would serve the same purpose.

mosinman

[mtgrs737]

If you want to add some Snake Oil to just about any lube for the "feel good" factor, add a small amount of Bullplate sprue lube, it does what people think STP does, only a whole lot better. That's my belief and no facts will change that! Bullplate is an exremely high-pressure, high-temperature, high-film strength lube that does have merits in boolit lube (because it ought to, it has to, right?).

Gear

+1 on the bullplate! 75% beeswax and 25% Bullplate by weight = Speed Green maybe the only lube you will ever need for smokeless cast bullet shooting! For my "Feel Good Factor" I add a tablespoon of Carnuba wax flakes and a few drops of dark green concentrated liquid candle dye just for looks. This lube couldn't be easier to make and reasonably priced.

I make it up in one pound blocks, 12 oz. of beeswax, 4 oz. of bullplate, and the tablespoon of carnuba wax flakes in a double boiler, I add the dye to give it that dark green look that I like just before pouring into the aluminum foil mould.

[riverwalker76]

+1 on the bullplate! 75% beeswax and 25% Bullplate by weight = Speed Green maybe the only lube you will ever need for smokeless cast bullet shooting! For my "Feel Good Factor" I add a tablespoon of Carnuba wax flakes and a few drops of dark green concentrated liquid candle dye just for looks. This lube couldn't be easier to make and reasonably priced.

I make it up in one pound blocks, 12 oz. of beeswax, 4 oz. of bullplate, and the tablespoon of carnuba wax flakes in a double boiler, I add the dye to give it that dark green look that I like just before pouring into the aluminum foil mould.

So .... is the 75% BW and 25% Bullplate the official recipe for Speed Green?

[fryboy]

The variations of the basic Darr Lube recipe (50/50 paraffin/vaseline) that I've seen had a couple spoonfuls of either STP, Dextron ATF, or Marvel Mystery oil added. Might be wrong, but are not all of these red in color?



mosinman

only the ATF the stp is kinda clear brownish ( at least my newest bottle is ) and it's been awhile but i didnt believe the marvel's was , tho they have several different products


as for speed green...pretty much with the addition of green color ..... it's on the lube recipe thread BTW

[oldtoolsniper]

So what would anti seize paste do for me? Seems funny the folks who make locktite make the anti-seize paste too.

[Charlie Sometimes]

Marvel Mystery Oil is clear, or at least the last can I saw was.
I'm sure someone out there has tried Never-Seize or some other similar acting product in their lube recipe.
Sounds as "practical" as anything else that has been used!
But I thought cost savings and simplicity was the major factors in making your own lube.

I might have to try Speed Green someday- when all this stock I have now runs out!

[303Guy]

I had a need which was something I could 'glue' j-words into an unsized hornet neck with and came up with pretty much beeswax/parrafin wax/STP in equal proportions. It worked and it also worked as a surface lube on smooth sided plain cast boolits. I still use it as a j-word lube and it prevents copper fouling for me.

[Beerd]

I might have to try Speed Green someday- when all this stock I have now runs out!

Charlie,
You made what, 5 pounds of loob?
You're going to be shooting for a looooong time before you use that all up!
..

[Charlie Sometimes]

Charlie,
You made what, 5 pounds of loob?
You're going to be shooting for a looooong time before you use that all up!

I hope I am able to continue shooting long enough to need more!

It goes faster than you think on both accounts.

[BulletGeek]

I use one lube, and this is how I make it:

1. Melt one wax toilet ring.
2. Add one part wheel bearing grease to four parts toilet ring.
3. Add one peeled crayon for color (I like green).
4. Whisk it together good, because the grease won't want to mix in all that well.
5. Pour melted lube in your lubrisizer.
6. Go to town lubing bullets.

This stuff works really well. The grease I used contains lithium, but I have also used molybdenum disulfide grease in the past with no ill effects. Apart from providing a nice strong gas seal in your bore, this lube will also soften powder fouling.

[riverwalker76]

From my experience I stay away from molybdenum disulfide. I have a really nice Remington 700 PSS that I shot nothing but Moly coated bullets from. After completely cleaning the rifle back down to bare metal, removing all of the moly, I noticed a thin coat of rust that had formed on the metal.

After a little research I found that Molybdenum disulfide can actually be corrosive in barrel steel in that it attracts moisture and is trapped underneath the coat of moly. Since then I have quit using moly bullets, and stay 100 ft. away from them if I can.

That was an expensive lesson to learn the hard way. I had to rebarrel and recondition the 700 PSS , because the pitting was so bad from the Moly and it wouldn't shoot a naked jacketed bullet with any sort of measurable accuracy.

[Charlie Sometimes]

From my experience I stay away from molybdenum disulfide. I have a really nice Remington 700 PSS that I shot nothing but Moly coated bullets from. After completely cleaning the rifle back down to bare metal, removing all of the moly, I noticed a thin coat of rust that had formed on the metal.

After a little research I found that Molybdenum disulfide can actually be corrosive in barrel steel in that it attracts moisture and is trapped underneath the coat of moly. Since then I have quit using moly bullets, and stay 100 ft. away from them if I can.

That was an expensive lesson to learn the hard way. I had to rebarrel and recondition the 700 PSS , because the pitting was so bad from the Moly and it wouldn't shoot a naked jacketed bullet with any sort of measurable accuracy.

I have never use anything that had Moly on or in it on firearms. I have some 22 J-words that are coated with that- but haven't tried them yet. Starting to wonder if I should now......

Oh, and I looked today to see how much lube I had in stock. 2 lb of the recipe I posted, 2 lb of another recipe "in progress", and about 4 lb of a tub of 44 Orange I've been shooting pistol boolits out of for 10 or more years! Rifles boolits get "the recipe" because of the lack of leading at high velocities.