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Thread: lead bullets coated with polymer paint

  1. #1341
    Boolit Master Gremlin460's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=jmortimer;2363786

    Not sure what this means, but the electrostatic powder coated bullets work the best, higher velocity and better accuracy from the testing I have seen. PC is intended to coat metal.[/QUOTE]

    Sorry was NOT casting doubts on PC coatings, I currently only have use for pistol ammo, I agree with you 100% that PC is indeed intended to coat metal.
    For my situation, and ease of application the HiTek suits my needs better.
    All said and done, all any of us want is something that suits our needs and is simple and cheap to process.
    There already is a coating that works well for accuracy and extremely velocity, its called copper. However both you and I know that costs Dollars better spent elsewhere. Again no slight was intended.
    Don't worry about life, no-one gets out alive.

  2. #1342
    Boolit Master
    Ausglock's Avatar
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    Grem.
    GCPC probably reload with Vindicators or John Connors bullets.
    Hooroo.
    Regards, Trevor.
    Australia

  3. #1343
    Boolit Master Gremlin460's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ausglock View Post
    Grem.
    GCPC probably reload with Vindicators or John Connors bullets.
    Not sure Trev will ask when I front up this sat if the reloading guy is busy in the reload room.
    Don't worry about life, no-one gets out alive.

  4. #1344
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gremlin460 View Post
    Not sure Trev will ask when I front up this sat if the reloading guy is busy in the reload room.
    If they are a red/copper, they are John Connors (Ammon Green)
    If they are Gold, they would be Vindicators from the NT.
    Hooroo.
    Regards, Trevor.
    Australia

  5. #1345
    Boolit Master Gremlin460's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ausglock View Post
    If they are a red/copper, they are John Connors (Ammon Green)
    If they are Gold, they would be Vindicators from the NT.
    Got one in my hand, (range scrap) definatelt red/copper TC Weighs in at 120.5gn
    Don't worry about life, no-one gets out alive.

  6. #1346
    Boolit Bub
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    Quick question, how har are these powdercoated to the revolver/pistol rifling as compared to led or full metal jackets?
    The reason I wonder is I heard that an 686 gets the same beating from 30.000 full metal jackets as easily over 300.000 led cast boolits.

    Appreciate your feedback mates,

    /Silverbullit

  7. #1347
    Boolit Master
    Ausglock's Avatar
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    You get throat erosion before the rifling wears out.
    Hooroo.
    Regards, Trevor.
    Australia

  8. #1348
    Boolit Bub
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    He he, well I wouldnt b 2 sure bout that, have a few rounds through my precious...

  9. #1349
    Boolit Buddy
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    Has anyone pulled seated bullets (using inertia bullet puller) or are you just recovering them after being shot and seen removal of the PC material?
    I used hfpc and saw some scraped off material and exposed lead, it may be b/c I used the lfcd to remove my flare? Any suggestions would be appreciated. I loaded these over 5.5 gr unique and shot out of a 20" 1/12" twist cz527 but saw no fouling or lead or PC residue inside bbl. I was not able to recover any boolits. These were not going super fast ; load data figures around 1664 fps
    Last edited by 3006mv; 10-03-2013 at 10:51 PM.

  10. #1350
    Boolit Buddy
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    No factory crimp die! Those are overkill for any lead bullet usually. But, especially for coating of any kind. Taper crimp.

  11. #1351
    Boolit Buddy
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    Ok that's what I figured, how do you taper w/ a lee rifle die?

    Edit re read my instructions of bullet seating die, it just seemed I was already bottoming out in my shell holder, I will revisit my press setup when I get back home. And I will put my fcd away, like I have for my lead .300whisper loading.
    Last edited by 3006mv; 10-04-2013 at 12:45 PM.

  12. #1352
    Boolit Master TES's Avatar
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    light crimp with fcd is ok. I have pulled bullets and when too tight it will pull any coating off. When done very lightly it does not pull the coating off.
    They call it "common sense". Why is it so uncommon?

  13. #1353
    Boolit Mold
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    A question about bullets coated with these techniques. Has anyone used them for cast bullets used for hunting?

  14. #1354
    Boolit Grand Master popper's Avatar
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    I FCD my 30/30 (1800 fps) & 308 (2400 fps) to the point where the jaws are completely closed. No leading, no problems. Alloy is 2-3% Sb. Chamfer the inside neck! My CBs are FP, make sure the seater starts them straight. I use HFPC, cook for 40 min @ 400F & WD. I suspect your alloy is too soft. If you look close, the coating AND lead is removed when pulling CBs. I scrape test mine with a knife blade, it's the lead that fails, not the coating. I use the FL sizer die to pull cast. Got to redo the case anyway, powder doesn't spill, recycle the lead.
    Can't be any worse than petrol or copper product in your meat. Haven't seen any indication that expansion is less.
    Last edited by popper; 11-05-2013 at 11:25 AM.
    Whatever!

  15. #1355
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by jmortimer View Post
    "Not casting (pun intended) doubt on the PC method, but really, it is a product being used for something it was never intended to do"

    Not sure what this means, but the electrostatic powder coated bullets work the best, higher velocity and better accuracy from the testing I have seen. PC is intended to coat metal.
    I believe it is easier to use Hi-Tek for pistol bullets as it eliminates the need to stand bullets up and you can process a lot more bullets per bake cycle - and it has proven to work.

    I agree that PC seems to hold better promise for higher velocity applications and where accuracy is more important.

    Popper has done a lot of work and I believe he has come to the same conclusion. He uses both methods.

    Don Verna

  16. #1356
    Boolit Mold
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    Hi all I am new to the forum!

    I just read your posts on the forum regarding coated lead Projectiles. I have been using Hy Tek coated lead in my 38 super for a while and they are great. Can you advise if these would be suitable for use in the Desert Eagle 44 Mag without causing potential lead fouling of gas system or barrel?

    Any feedback greatly appreciated.

  17. #1357
    Boolit Buddy GunFun's Avatar
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    A friend of mine uses powder coated .223 and 300 BO through a DI AR via a dry tumble + bake method. He used to use piglet method with laquer thinner. Prior to using poly coat, he would get lead smudges on his face from the shavings going down the gas tube and leaking out the back. He had a bit of a lead poisoning scare and quit using cast in DI guns until the poly coat solved his problem. I'd say that either a bake on P.C. or a 2 part epoxy like the HiTek product are likely to meet your needs and not clog up your gas port. They are at least worth a try.
    In the market for a multicavity Mi-Hec 9mm HP mold.

    I presently cast for .380 ACP, 9mm, .38/.357, 30 cal and .45 and 12 Ga slug.
    I am particularly grateful for the help I have gotten from members Red333 and MSRdiver, and OLD Para (who made a crazy mold on my design!!!!!) as well as excellent guides by Recluse for his ideal lube process. I have been experimenting with poly coating too.

    PM me if you know of a very cheap source of birdshot, or an efficient way to make #4 Buck.

  18. #1358
    Boolit Buddy benellinut's Avatar
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    Gents,

    Here's a coupon for those thinking about getting the Harbor Freight Powder Coat system --> http://www.harborfreight.com/10-30-p...tem-94244.html

    This 25% off coupon is good until 4/12/14 While your there grab a free 12" clamp with the other coupon. Decent clamp, I've got five of them and I'll be stopping by HF tomorrow to get another.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  19. #1359
    Boolit Buddy AZPaul's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by andrew375 View Post
    Ok I tried out a couple of things. I remembered that at work there were some left over cans of something called Plasti-Kote spray paint. When i looked in the flammables store there was just this Glass frosting spray left. Still the description made it worth a try. I also found a can of something called Clear Gard which is intended for coating electrical items. Again the description sounded promising as a bullet coating.

    I coated ten bullets, RCBS 245 gr. SWC, with each.



    Application was quick and easy. Both were touch dry in ten minutes. Both sets of bullets had a slick waxy feel to them afterward.

    I used the usual load I use with these bullets of 10 grains Vectan AO for 1260 fps. with my usual floor polish lube this is a consistent one hole grouper at 50 meters from my M94.

    Here is the fifty meter (55 yd) group with the clear gard coating. The highest shot was a called flyer.



    Afterwards the barrel appeared dirty and the crown was considerably greyer than usual.

    Things improved with the Plasti-Kote glass frosting.



    Also the barrel appeared cleaner and the crown went back to being black. So I think we can call this a success.

    Bear in mind this is shooting prone, unsupported, with the 'scope set on 3.5x at an aiming point not really suitable for 'scope use.

    The Plasi-Kote products are sold over here in most DIY and hardware stores, so no doubt you will find them, or something similar elsewhere.
    Did you size them before and after?
    Carrying heat in dry heat.
    God bless SB1070

  20. #1360
    Boolit Buddy GunFun's Avatar
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    I finally got a chance to try the dry tumble method. It worked beautifully.

    I would emphasize "dry" though one of the batches must have still had a little moisture from the quench. I was sure it was dry, but after tumbling a while the coating was inconsistent and there was some condensation on my tumbler lid. This interferes with the static that builds up during dry tumble. More time cured the issue.

    Even deliberately placing the bullets in contact with each other did not result in bullets stuck together or crusties. You can just pile them up on the mesh and bake. then jostle them with a gloved hand when you remove them.

    Of course they passed the hammer test too, and a day at the range.

    This is clearly the way to do it.

    Pics here: https://plus.google.com/u/0/b/106048...16945510202593
    In the market for a multicavity Mi-Hec 9mm HP mold.

    I presently cast for .380 ACP, 9mm, .38/.357, 30 cal and .45 and 12 Ga slug.
    I am particularly grateful for the help I have gotten from members Red333 and MSRdiver, and OLD Para (who made a crazy mold on my design!!!!!) as well as excellent guides by Recluse for his ideal lube process. I have been experimenting with poly coating too.

    PM me if you know of a very cheap source of birdshot, or an efficient way to make #4 Buck.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check