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Thread: lead bullets coated with polymer paint

  1. #1001
    Boolit Buddy
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    Nice report there, Ausglock. I'm anxious to see how they shoot in your 9mm especially...and the condition of your bore afterwards.

    I don't own a 38 super, but I feel like I kinda walk a tightrope with my Kahr PM9...getting enough "juice" to reliably cycle 125 grainers, and not so much that I'm leading. (With 45/45/10 Recluse lube.) My best wheel weight load for the Kahr has been an odd 163 grain flattened round nose from an old Cramer over about 2.9 grains of Bullseye. I don't have a chrono, but they cycle and leading is light with LLA and Recluse Lube. I'm SURE the velocity is low and so is the Point Of Impact. The Kahr is my everyday carry piece, and if I *KNEW* for sure that Hi-Tek coating would make it shoot PB (practice rounds only) without leading and acceptable accuracy, I'd be reaching for my wallet.

    Stan

    P.S. Another question is with collecting and remelting of these coated pills (which I do regularly in my 5 gallon rubber mulch traps). Do they melt OK? Is there a stench or additional health hazard? I should have done a forum search for that one, but I didn't.
    Last edited by Whizzer; 05-30-2013 at 11:22 AM.

  2. #1002
    Boolit Master
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    G'day Stan.

    I run a G17 in 9mm and my pet load is a 125gr coated pill over 4.4gr W231. When fireing these coated pills, I regularly fire 2 to 3000 before pulling a bore snake through the barrel. the only fouling if from the powder. None, Zero, Nada from the coated pills.

    When you re-melt the coated pills, the coating just floats on top of the melt like crumpled tissue paper. you just scrape it off like you do with the dross
    Hooroo.
    Regards, Trevor.
    Australia

  3. #1003
    Boolit Buddy abqcaster's Avatar
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    That's very helpful info, Trevor. Thanks!
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  4. #1004
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ausglock View Post
    G'day Stan.

    I run a G17 in 9mm and my pet load is a 125gr coated pill over 4.4gr W231. When fireing these coated pills, I regularly fire 2 to 3000 before pulling a bore snake through the barrel. the only fouling if from the powder. None, Zero, Nada from the coated pills.

    When you re-melt the coated pills, the coating just floats on top of the melt like crumpled tissue paper. you just scrape it off like you do with the dross
    Trevor, Did you coat and cure these yourself, using a method similar to the one outlined on the 2 part youtube video, WITH HiTek's chemicals?
    Here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VevKJgHseWc and
    Here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NU7PbbtbAtE

    Sorry to sound like an attorney. (I've been watching a live murder trial with one eye, where a cop in Kansas is on trial for killing his wife and setting fire to the house to burn the evidence. I happen to know BOTH the cop AND his deceased wife, so I'm WAAAAY interested...)

    It's just that your post is the kind of thing I've been looking for. And I really like the sound of 2000+ rounds through a polygonal (I assumed you are using a Glock barrel?) without leading or anything other than powder residue.

    And what about your accuracy? And Point Of Aim?

    Stan

  5. #1005
    Boolit Master prickett's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ausglock View Post
    G'day All.
    Well.
    Here is my first go at coating with HI-TEK's coating.
    Ausglock,
    Be careful mixing your chemicals in the coke bottle (assuming its a plastic one). I mixed up a batch of "Piglet coat" in a plastic peanut container and on the third coat, the acetone ate through the corners. I now have a spotted floor

  6. #1006
    Boolit Mold
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    Hi Trev,
    is this Hi-Tek a member, or a process?
    I'm waiting on a NOE 223 mold and I'll be looking for a lube coating, so I'd like to read up/follow up on this.
    Thanks
    Mike
    shooting.com.au

  7. #1007
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    While waiting on some HT from Donnie, I experimented with the pc thing. Let me say that the acetone method I just did not like. Not near as smooth as Donnie's boolits with HT. They were rough and uneven like some pictures on this thread. Another interesting is even after letting it flash off and curing for 20 minutes at 395f, putting back in acetone would take some off. This is what was causing roughness.
    I have pc gun too. Now those do look incredible and have had success but it is not really feasible unless I'm doing hollow points in low volume.
    I have some black on order with Donnie. I will just pay the price as it is just a better looking result that shoots like a dream. I will continue to play with PC on my hollow points but for 9mm 40 and 45 target round, I will put my trust into a product that has been around over a decade in AU. Just my humble opinion. There have been some naysayers latley very few have tried all three methods. Not trying to stir the pot. It is what it is. Just thought I would give my opinion of all three methods.
    Our house is protected by the Good Lord and a gun and you might meet them both if you show up here not welcome son!

  8. #1008
    Boolit Bub
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    Were You using Epoxy or Polyester PC?
    Epoxy should be much tougher.

    I had similar problems in the beginning, got rough bullets.
    The reason was too thick mixture, too much mixture in the bucket and not enough layers.

    Then I started to use very thin mixture, bullets first in the bucket, then shaking and at the same time very little mixture so that the bullets get very little color. And then dry and bake after each layer.
    One or two layers do not work.
    Use at least three very thin layers.
    First after the third layer the bullets should have uniform color.

    Naturally all PC:s are not the same either.
    My Epoxy-PC, after baking, does not dissolve in acetone.

    I have been very happy with the results, after I learned how to. But it took some experimenting.

    Check the pictures on page 49, Skip62 has succeeded OK.
    Last edited by piglet; 05-31-2013 at 01:22 AM.

  9. #1009
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    G'day Stan.
    I fire the commercial coated pills in my Glock factory barrels as well as Stormlake and my Kimber 1911 38 Super.

    I'm loading my coated pills tomorrow to fire on Sunday.

    I'll be running 38 Super, 45 ACP, 40 SW, and 357Sig at full power loadings. 100 of each. If I can, I'll get photos of the barrels before and after firing.
    This HI-TEK coating is the duck's guts. So easy and a bloody fantastic product.

    Was talking to HI-TEK today and it looks like I'm using too much product to coat. So I'm thinning the mix with 25% more Acetone.

    Coating again tomorrow.
    This is very addictive.....
    Thanks.
    Hooroo.
    Regards, Trevor.
    Australia

  10. #1010
    Boolit Buddy Skip62's Avatar
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    the HI-TEK stuff does work great, but here in the States there's only 1 source, and it's had availability problems, and not just recently. I don't like having all my eggs in 1 basket. I don't have all money or guns or data in one place. Got to have backups. So here I am grateful for guys like piglet, and others that have figured this stuff out.

    piglets correct, acetone doesn't wipe off any of my HF PC after it's cured, and I cure between coats. The procedure for all 3 is same, except the PC needs 1 extra coat. Not a big deal.

  11. #1011
    Boolit Man
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    Ausglock, is acetone from Bunnings pure enough? Happy with the sunbeam oven?

  12. #1012
    Boolit Man
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    I'll be giving Piglet Coating a whirl this weekend to see if it beats jigging up trays of boolits and leaving PC overspray all over the garage.

    I'm squared away on the mix ratio with the acetone, but what's the consensus on baking times and temps for all three coats?

  13. #1013
    Boolit Master
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    G'day. I got the acetone from "the paint place".
    The sunbeam oven is a BT7000.
    works bloody great.
    Hooroo.
    Regards, Trevor.
    Australia

  14. #1014
    Boolit Buddy olaf455's Avatar
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    Different powder coats will have different temperatures they recommend, mine recommends 10 minutes at 375 Fahrenheit.
    That is what I used and it worked quite well in a convection style toaster oven.
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  15. #1015
    Boolit Man
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    I've been baking the Harbor Freight PC ("traditionally sprayed") for 20 mins at 400 deg F. My understanding is that the acetone/PC method will be much shorter and cooler than that between coats.

  16. #1016
    Boolit Buddy Skip62's Avatar
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    I'm not sure about piglet, but I'm curing between coats completely. So with the HF PC, it's 20 minutes at 400. I "think" if you don't cure completely the next coat of acetone will screw up the first coat.

  17. #1017
    Boolit Master TheDoctor's Avatar
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    Got some HF PC, black and red, just need to find someplace to get a friggin toaster oven! Cheap me, don't want to spend the cash for a new one just for an experiment, but none of the thrift stores, or garage sales around here seem to have any. Pawn shops.....might as well go buy a new one.

  18. #1018
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheDoctor View Post
    Got some HF PC, black and red, just need to find someplace to get a friggin toaster oven! Cheap me, don't want to spend the cash for a new one just for an experiment, but none of the thrift stores, or garage sales around here seem to have any. Pawn shops.....might as well go buy a new one.
    It was a few weeks of looking at my local thrift shop before I was able to snag one. Your patience will be rewarded.

  19. #1019
    Boolit Master prickett's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheDoctor View Post
    Got some HF PC, black and red, just need to find someplace to get a friggin toaster oven! Cheap me, don't want to spend the cash for a new one just for an experiment, but none of the thrift stores, or garage sales around here seem to have any. Pawn shops.....might as well go buy a new one.
    I picked one up new at Walmart for $39. Convection and room for two trays (only comes with one, though)

  20. #1020
    Boolit Master prickett's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by xyankeeworkshop View Post
    I'll be giving Piglet Coating a whirl this weekend to see if it beats jigging up trays of boolits and leaving PC overspray all over the garage.

    I'm squared away on the mix ratio with the acetone, but what's the consensus on baking times and temps for all three coats?
    I did 400F for 15 minutes (HF paint using Piglet Coating). Turned out pretty nice.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check