lead bullets coated with polymer paint

[Skip62]

The Acetone and MEK are closely related with solvency.
Some resins dissolve better with Acetone, and others dissolve better in MEK.
PolyEster resins and Epoxy resins have various solubility levels in both solvents, and solubility is directly related to resins molecular structure or polymer size, (molecular weight), and modifications made to the resin.
The higher the molecular weight, and, the more cross linking, the slower of dissolution into specific solvents.
Sometimes, blended solvents are better at dissolving various resins ( better solvency).
As an example, in Automotive paints two pack type, (resin and catalysts), the blended solvents extenders are used as solubilising, thinning agents and reducer to allow good leveling & flow during drying and designed to provide good application and finish of coatings.
To dissolve Powder paint resins, the polymer and catalyst is already premixed, so in trying to ascertain correct solvent or solvent blends to dissolve components, you need to maybe establish solubility parameters for ingredients.
Sometimes, to get that sort of information is not easy as manufacturers may not supply such data.
In many coatings, the solvents play a role in obtaining film formation, leveling, flow characteristics and sometimes gloss of resin film systems.

In terms of your desire to get similar results to poly paint, what are your target benefits that you are trying to achieve, when you are trying to get similar results to Poly paints?
I suppose, I am trying to understand your desired end goals.

Thanks for the info. Not sure I'm looking for any results, just experimenting. The poly paint looks much nicer, it lays flatter. That would be nice, but probably not necessary. I think the PC goes on thicker. I didn't measure it, shoot. I did shoot both today, about 100 of each. Chrono and group size identical. Recovered one of the poly paint bullets, still paint on the bottom, leading edge groove missing a little paint. Low smoke, right at major power factor with WST. I should have loaded some of the Bayou Bullets I have and compared all three, shoot, shoot, shoot. The poly did leave a little something in the barrel, but it comes right out with a couple of scrubs with a plastic brush. PC bullets didn't leave anything behind. I did put carnauba on both.

bad pics, but I tried several times and this is the best it got. Blue is the Klass Kote poly paint, Black is the HF PC.

[HI-TEK]

Thanks for the info. Not sure I'm looking for any results, just experimenting. The poly paint looks much nicer, it lays flatter. That would be nice, but probably not necessary. I think the PC goes on thicker. I didn't measure it, shoot. I did shoot both today, about 100 of each. Chrono and group size identical. Recovered one of the poly paint bullets, still paint on the bottom, leading edge groove missing a little paint. Low smoke, right at major power factor with WST. I should have loaded some of the Bayou Bullets I have and compared all three, shoot, shoot, shoot. The poly did leave a little something in the barrel, but it comes right out with a couple of scrubs with a plastic brush. PC bullets didn't leave anything behind. I did put carnauba on both.

bad pics, but I tried several times and this is the best it got. Blue is the Klass Kote poly paint, Black is the HF PC.

Thanks for your detailed advice.

What seems to be missed, is that the HI-TEK-LUBE coating, does not need any wax or other lubes, (and possibly also with the Klass Cote, I dont Know) .
The HI-TEK self lubricates, and self adjusts to shooting requirements to cope with changes of energy being introduced to the film.
I do not have any data on Klass Kote, to determine if it becomes soft, and at what temperature, and,
if it is self lubricating as well.
What I do know is, that the HTL does not melt, fuse or similar, even at lead melting temperatures, and is totally self contained film that separates metals during firing.
Usually deposits that are observed, are due to lube or coating either not staying on alloy, and, may be softening and being stripped off with frictional heat.
I dont know how the Klass Kote is designed or rated with various applications, and, I have no information about its heat stability capability.
It could be OK, but I do not know.
Until I was asked to join this blog site, I was unaware of the Klass Kote product.
May be someone can send me some data so I can have a look at it.

[Liberty'sSon]

As for 3 Gun,, Only USPSA matches have power factor, and most 3 Gun Matchs,, run outlaw rules,, most outlaw rule matches have no power factor,, , I went to the USPSA 3 Gun ,Nationals, two times,,, those are the only Match That my ammo has ever been tested,, any place,,, , ,
for a local match, its all good,

I'm with you on the local matches not checking PF. It's usually not an issue as most loads that reliable cycle are at least close to PF. I only caution you because from what others have posted as velocities for the 55 grain cast cycling in an AR I think it was quite below PF. Just remember, if you start winning, and your local matches are USPSA sanctioned, someone will be THAT guy that will raise a stink. I personally was thinking of trying to get a heavier boolit load worked up. Say something in the 70 grain weight range that wouldn't need as much speed as the 55 grainers. But I want to get the 55s working first. Waiting on my new pot I can get rid of the drip o magic I have. It's just too much headache.

[bmiller]

Nice job! You did not notice any differance in smoke between the two?

[Skip62]

Thanks for your detailed advice.

What seems to be missed, is that the HI-TEK-LUBE coating, does not need any wax or other lubes, (and possibly also with the Klass Cote, I dont Know) .
The HI-TEK self lubricates, and self adjusts to shooting requirements to cope with changes of energy being introduced to the film.
I do not have any data on Klass Kote, to determine if it becomes soft, and at what temperature, and,
if it is self lubricating as well.
What I do know is, that the HTL does not melt, fuse or similar, even at lead melting temperatures, and is totally self contained film that separates metals during firing.
Usually deposits that are observed, are due to lube or coating either not staying on alloy, and, may be softening and being stripped off with frictional heat.
I dont know how the Klass Kote is designed or rated with various applications, and, I have no information about its heat stability capability.
It could be OK, but I do not know.
Until I was asked to join this blog site, I was unaware of the Klass Kote product.
May be someone can send me some data so I can have a look at it.

I have no doubt your stuff is better, been shooting Bayou Bullets for quite awhile, but when Donnie couldn't keep up, I had to find an alternative. That's why I started casting, didn't have any idea it would be addictive. I am doing everything I can to not have to worry about getting components. I even keep my old primers, just in case I have use match sticks to rebuild them... I'm not a hoarder by nature, so it's hard for me, but anything I can do to not rely on someone else for components I'm going to do. That's why I'm trying PC and poly paint. I'll use regular lube if I have to, but shooting steel and USPSA smoke is a factor for me. I will tell you PC, and poly paint smell better than HI-TEK when shot... I'll be ordering from Donnie now that he has it again, but I rarely keep all my eggs in one basket. What is the shelf life of your lube?

[Skip62]

Nice job! You did not notice any differance in smoke between the two?

If your asking me, nope, couldn't tell. I think the WST, which I just started using is smokier than the N320 I usually use. Guess I need to test them side by side now....DOH!!!

[piglet]

I think the PC goes on thicker. I didn't measure it, shoot. ... PC bullets didn't leave anything behind. I did put carnauba on both.

Congratulations!!

Fine results with the most economical method using the readily available HarborFreight Epoxy PC.

I use the PC without any wax, nothing but PC and acetone.
Mine is not HarborFreight, comes from http://www.metal.teknos.fi/?lang=17

I have noticed that the thinner the mixture, the nicer the bullets look.

Same thing with me - clean barrel and the bottom is fully painted afterwards.

I have to test someday how my PC works with rifle bullets (AK-47).

[HI-TEK]

[QUOTE=piglet;2237126]

I think the PC goes on thicker. I didn't measure it, shoot. ... PC bullets didn't leave anything behind. I did put carnauba on both.



Congratulations!!

Fine results with the most economical method using the readily available HarborFreight Epoxy PC.

I use the PC without any wax, nothing but PC and acetone.
Mine is not HarborFreight, comes from http://www.metal.teknos.fi/?lang=17

I have noticed that the thinner the mixture, the nicer the bullets look.

Same thing with me - clean barrel and the bottom is fully painted afterwards.

I have to test someday how my PC works with rifle bullets (AK-47).

You guys.
Does it does not occur to you, that people can see that both your picture and Skip62 picture of projectiles, is the same container????

[Skip62]

[QUOTE=piglet;2237126]

Congratulations!!

Fine results with the most economical method using the readily available HarborFreight Epoxy PC.

I use the PC without any wax, nothing but PC and acetone.
Mine is not HarborFreight, comes from http://www.metal.teknos.fi/?lang=17

I have noticed that the thinner the mixture, the nicer the bullets look.

Same thing with me - clean barrel and the bottom is fully painted afterwards.

I have to test someday how my PC works with rifle bullets (AK-47).

Yup, it is very economical. I just add wax cuz I have a bunch from another experiment, but it might be what gives the burn a sweet smell that I like...

Thinner is better. The other cool thing I noticed is, when I reused the same container to mix, the PC that was in it mixed right back in, so there isn't any loss. Way cool!

I don't reload for rifle, but now that I'm casting, and addicted, I just might start. Please post your results.

Thanks for setting me down this path, just what I was looking for.

[Skip62]

[QUOTE=HI-TEK;2237134]

You guys.
Does it does not occur to you, that people can see that both your picture and Skip62 picture of projectiles, is the same container????

well yeah, piglet quoted my post with only the PC'd bullets picture in it. Did you think he was trying to represent it as his? I didn't....

[piglet]

[QUOTE=Skip62;2237166]

well yeah, piglet quoted my post with only the PC'd bullets picture in it. Did you think he was trying to represent it as his? I didn't....

Well, maybe HI-TEK, the businessman, is just trying to say that users of other much more economical and readily available resins than his, are fake or something....

As he did earlier with the German fellow who had the youtube video where he was using 2-component epoxy paint and a bucket.

For me this bullet painting is just a part of my hobby, I am not trying to desperately sell anything and I have no "secret" formulas.

[piglet]

[QUOTE=HI-TEK;2237134]

You guys.
Does it does not occur to you, that people can see that both your picture and Skip62 picture of projectiles, is the same container????

Do not be stupid, anybody can see that this is a quote.

Are You really so afraid that people might buy the HF Epoxy PC instead of the expensive resin You "manufacture"?

By the way, one of Your Australian sellers, bulletfactory, writes "Hi-Tek Supercoating by J & M Specialized Products ........ 3200 ft.per sec and zero fouling of the barrel."

Is this tested or just Your sales mantra?

[HDS]

Mine is not HarborFreight, comes from http://www.metal.teknos.fi/?lang=17

Cool teknos stuff is available here, do you have a product number? I would like to test this, would be easier to get going even than the MCC recipe.

Do you want plain epoxy or a polyester/epoxy combo?

"P234 INFRALIT EP 8024-00 EPOXY POWDER SYSTEM" sounds like a candidate to try if plain epoxy is what's required.

[piglet]

Cool teknos stuff is available here, do you have a product number? I would like to test this, would be easier to get going even than the MCC recipe.

Do you want plain epoxy or a polyester/epoxy combo?

"P234 INFRALIT EP 8024-00 EPOXY POWDER SYSTEM" sounds like a candidate to try if plain epoxy is what's required.

Plain epoxy. It is INFRALIT Epoxy but I do not remember the number.
I hope You can find a smaller box of it. Mine was 10 kilos and with that I could paint maybe several zillion bullets.

[AverageJoe]

Keep up the good work

[Dolomite_supafly]

*****

[Whizzer]

(When do you guys sleep?)

Piglet, I sent you a PM.

I actually have no doubt that the Hi Tek coating is good stuff. And that definitive velocity testing of homebrewed alloys, backyard sizing parameters, using who knows what techniques for applying and baking the coatings, and a myriad of different propellants and loading data, and many many more variables.... makes publishing results that are meaningful an elusive dream. No...make that impossible.

What I am still waiting for is a bunch of reports of happy users without gas checks. Like a preponderance of evidence you might expect if you were a juror--not just a handful of reviews. Having said that, I'm moving in the direction of using HiTek's coating eventually, because I'm beginning to see more of those stories.

This thread is HUGE and there is a lot of reviews here already. Just not EXACTLY the number of reviews I need before dropping 100 clams. I'm still "hitched to the wagon".... pulling all those deadbeat moochers and welfare broodmares making babies who'll turn into the criminal element---that I have to pay for---and not inclined to spend my hobby $$ carelessly, when I have to save it for other needs.

Stan

[Dolomite_supafly]

*****

[morrisammo]

(When do you guys sleep?)

Piglet, I sent you a PM.

I actually have no doubt that the Hi Tek coating is good stuff. And that definitive velocity testing of homebrewed alloys, backyard sizing parameters, using who knows what techniques for applying and baking the coatings, and a myriad of different propellants and loading data, and many many more variables.... makes publishing results that are meaningful an elusive dream. No...make that impossible.

What I am still waiting for is a bunch of reports of happy users without gas checks. Like a preponderance of evidence you might expect if you were a juror--not just a handful of reviews. Having said that, I'm moving in the direction of using HiTek's coating eventually, because I'm beginning to see more of those stories.

This thread is HUGE and there is a lot of reviews here already. Just not EXACTLY the number of reviews I need before dropping 100 clams. I'm still "hitched to the wagon".... pulling all those deadbeat moochers and welfare broodmares making babies who'll turn into the criminal element---that I have to pay for---and not inclined to spend my hobby $$ carelessly, when I have to save it for other needs.

Stan

well it worked for me,, with AR 15,,, cast bullets,,,, I am going to look for that other paint the German guy, uses and try that,, but that will be in a lil bit,,, I have other projects,, a life wife and kids,,,, and oh ya,,, shooitng 3 Gun!!! I'm also making my own Swedging dies,, for 223 bullets,,,,

[morrisammo]

As for 3 Gun,, Only USPSA matches have power factor, and most 3 Gun Matchs,, run outlaw rules,, most outlaw rule matches have no power factor,, , I went to the USPSA 3 Gun ,Nationals, two times,,, those are the only Match That my ammo has ever been tested,, any place,,, , ,
for a local match, its all good,

I'm with you on the local matches not checking PF. It's usually not an issue as most loads that reliable cycle are at least close to PF. I only caution you because from what others have posted as velocities for the 55 grain cast cycling in an AR I think it was quite below PF. Just remember, if you start winning, and your local matches are USPSA sanctioned, someone will be THAT guy that will raise a stink. I personally was thinking of trying to get a heavier boolit load worked up. Say something in the 70 grain weight range that wouldn't need as much speed as the 55 grainers. But I want to get the 55s working first. Waiting on my new pot I can get rid of the drip o magic I have. It's just too much headache.

The PF,,,, is probably not that low,,, but ya I hear you!!!! I started the 3 Gun Match at our local club,,,, and 10 years ago I was the guy to beat,, we did grow some real 3 gunners,,,, that I can't catch,,, anymore,, what I'm worried about is,,, other people will want some of the good cheap 223 bullets,,,, and I don't have the time to make and load the ones I'm shooting now!!! hahahah