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Thread: lead bullets coated with polymer paint

  1. #901
    Boolit Buddy olaf455's Avatar
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    I have. Using an air brush I was unable to get even coverage.
    The liquid to powder seems to be just water with soap or something added as a surface tension reducer. works great on flat surface but it is just a medium like air to transfer the powder. when the liquid evaporates the powder can and will fall off. it was also an absolute fail for tumble application.
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  2. #902
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michael J. Spangler View Post
    This thread and the powder coat thread are killing me.

    I wish I did t have to go to a wedding today. I would be casting and coating for sure.

    Still waiting in a back order for hy-tek through bayou bullets.

    Has anyone seen or used this yet?
    http://www.powderbuythepound.com/-NE...quid_2_Powder/
    yep i tried it. Does not coat very uniform. I am going to give it another go though. Brother in law just had a heart transplant and bee in the hospital. Probably going home tomorrow after church. Will give it another go soon.
    Our house is protected by the Good Lord and a gun and you might meet them both if you show up here not welcome son!

  3. #903
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    I've been trying to keep up with this thread as I am brand spanking new to casting as well as powder coating, etc.

    If I am tracking correctly, 1 part of powder coat/ epoxy paint (hopefully HF pc will work?) with 1 part Acetone is the correct solution. "Tumble" boolits in that solution in a bucket for a light coat, bake, repeat. Does that sound right? It probably going to be my Memorial Day project.

  4. #904
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    Do not think of 1 part of acetone and 1 part of powder.
    Instead pour very little acetone in a small glass jar and add a little powder.
    Mix those two so that the mixture is not much thicker than water.
    Then pour some bullets in the empty bucket You have, add a little mixture from the jar, shake the bucket several times so that all the bullets get some color. Very little first time.
    Best is if all the bullets get some color and You do not have any mixture left in the bucket.
    If the mixture is too thick, the result might not look too good.

    And then pour the bullets on a mesh, let dry, bake, and repeat the whole process two more times.

    Several very light coats give the best results.

    The remaining mixture You can store in the jar.

    This HF PC should work. They claim it is Epoxy.

  5. #905
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    Quote Originally Posted by piglet View Post
    Do not think of 1 part of acetone and 1 part of powder.
    Instead pour very little acetone in a small glass jar and add a little powder.
    Mix those two so that the mixture is not much thicker than water.
    Then pour some bullets in the empty bucket You have, add a little mixture from the jar, shake the bucket several times so that all the bullets get some color. Very little first time.
    Best is if all the bullets get some color and You do not have any mixture left in the bucket.
    If the mixture is too thick, the result might not look too good.

    And then pour the bullets on a mesh, let dry, bake, and repeat the whole process two more times.

    Several very light coats give the best results.

    The remaining mixture You can store in the jar.

    This HF PC should work. They claim it is Epoxy.
    Excellent, thank you. What type of mesh are you guys using? Fabric, hardware cloth, etc?

  6. #906
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    Quote Originally Posted by MacFan View Post
    Acetone is quite commonly used in industry as a working thinner for epoxies with no, or few, ill effects on the final cured resin.
    I do admit I don't have 14 years of coating experience but I did have more than just a few semesters of polymeric chemistry.
    Below are pics of a quick trial done this morning.
    Harbor Freight PC in an acetone vehicle.
    Shot from an old Paasche double acting air brush. -No- clogs were encountered.
    Baked at 400F. The coating seems to be as tough as any other I've done. Actual shooting will tell the truth on this. Would I do 1000 boolits this way? Nope.
    Attachment 71512Attachment 71514Attachment 71513

    Looks great,
    It must have been a bit fiddly to try and balance the alloy so that you can coat it.

    Your powder coating must have been a fairly good brand with very fine ingredients so it can be suspended to allow spray applications to be done.

    Did you happen to get the diameter of the Alloy before and after final baked coat?
    Did you try to size the coated/baked projectile? Diameter before and after sizing would be very useful.
    It would be useful to get some idea of how things worked out with each step, and your shooting results would be appreciated also.

  7. #907
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    Quote Originally Posted by Glock Junkie View Post
    Thanx for the info! Checked and Bayou is sold out of the kits,I picked a bad time to get into casting and reloading lol! Everywhere I look all products are sold out.
    Just wanted to advise, that Bayou, (Donnie Miculek) has just received new stock.
    After packing of home kits the availability of stock is OK.
    For any one wanting kits just simply contact Donnie.

  8. #908
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmiller View Post
    No, used a gas check. Working up the nerve to try it without a gas check .
    Just a quick follow up.
    Did you try using without gas check?
    Please post your test results

  9. #909
    Boolit Buddy olaf455's Avatar
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    Coated 80 boolits for my 308 tonight.
    Used polyester TGIC and acetone. 1 part PC to 2 parts acetone. Two coats baked 10 min each at 375f. Sized fine and gas checked in a lee push through with no coating removed.
    Next time I will go 3 to 1 and apply 3 coats (rifle). 2 to 1 went on a bit thick. 2 coats would easily do for most pistol loads, just not sure I'm ready to give up my 45/45/10...lol...
    Range testing to commence ASAP...
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  10. #910
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    I used the piglet method, as it will probably be called now, yesterday and it works perfectly. The second coat works extremely well. I shot yesterday using pure lead bullets that would ALWAYS lead the bore from the first shot and no leading using this method. I will say I added some copper dust to the mix because I had it but I plan on leaving it out for the next batch.

    After two coats the bullets are .004" thicker and totally encapusulated.

    I added enough acetone to barely cover the bottom of a gallon bucket. Then I dumped 5 Lee dippers that were .7cc full of powder coating powder. I swirled it up good until the powder coat disolved into what looks like the consistency of Testor's paint. Then I added about 50 bullets. I swirled them around until the acetone was almost evaporated then I dumped the bullets out onto a piece of hardware cloth with 1/4" opening. Then I alllowed them to finish drying. Then I put them into a toaster oven at 400 degree for a little over 10 minutes. Then I open the door and alow them to cool.

    Initiallly I was worried about being able to size them down but the size just like a regular bullet. I also did a smach test and the stuff remains adhered to the bullet. They don't look as shiny as the others pictured here but I think for the $11 I spent on materials I can take a dull colored bullet.

  11. #911
    Boolit Buddy Skip62's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jb326 View Post
    I've been trying to keep up with this thread as I am brand spanking new to casting as well as powder coating, etc.

    If I am tracking correctly, 1 part of powder coat/ epoxy paint (hopefully HF pc will work?) with 1 part Acetone is the correct solution..
    After thinking about it, the ratio doesn't really matter, we just really need a place to start. If we use to much acetone, we just have to stir it back out is all. It sounds like olaf455 had great success with 2 acetone, and 1 powder. I'll try that next, cuz I had to wait and shake and stir for a long time to get it to dissolve at 1 to 1.

    This is great stuff piglet, I was sure it could be done, but didn't know how. Thank you

  12. #912
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dolomite_supafly View Post
    ....I shot yesterday using pure lead bullets that would ALWAYS lead the bore from the first shot and no leading using this method.....Initiallly I was worried about being able to size them down but the size just like a regular bullet. I also did a smach test and the stuff remains adhered to the bullet. They don't look as shiny as the others pictured here but I think for the $11 I spent on materials I can take a dull colored bullet.
    Nice reading!
    This method works. No accelerators needed, almost unlimited pot life, and it does not cost much anything.

    I just wonder how much does one of those Bayou resin/accelerator/acetone Home Kits cost?

    By the way olaf455, polyester might work OK, but I would use epoxy because epoxy is much tougher than polyester.
    At least I think so.
    Last edited by piglet; 05-26-2013 at 06:56 AM.

  13. #913
    Boolit Buddy Skip62's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by piglet View Post
    I just wonder how much does one of those Bayou resin/accelerator/acetone Home Kits cost?
    $95 a liter, I've read that it does anywhere from 20,000 to 40,000 bullets. I guess depends on what bullet. Have not found anything that says 30,000 9mm bullets, for example. It's inexpensive, but rarely available and not as cheap as the piglet PC/A.

  14. #914
    Boolit Buddy MacFan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HI-TEK View Post
    Looks great,
    It must have been a bit fiddly to try and balance the alloy so that you can coat it.

    Your powder coating must have been a fairly good brand with very fine ingredients so it can be suspended to allow spray applications to be done.

    Did you happen to get the diameter of the Alloy before and after final baked coat?
    Did you try to size the coated/baked projectile? Diameter before and after sizing would be very useful.
    It would be useful to get some idea of how things worked out with each step, and your shooting results would be appreciated also.
    Alloy is simple mystery lead. Soft lead plus some babbit engine mount material from a ship yard.
    Powder is from Harbor Freight. Less than 6 bucks a pound. Made in India says the label. I can not attest to the quality compared to others.
    Lee .452 mold actually casts closer to .453/.454.
    After coating diameter measured .456 thereabouts.
    I size to .451 for my Colt Gold Cup Series 70 in virtually like new condition. Adhesion of the PC is amazing, no signs of chipping or peeling when sizing.
    I'll be shooting again next week. Normally I see no leading using my mystery lead and Lee's Liquid Alox in my Colt. I will try the PC boolits though my main interest right now is dialing in a powder (Hodgdon Longshot) I've never loaded before. So far I like it.

  15. #915
    Boolit Buddy
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    Have not had time yet. Sorry

  16. #916
    Boolit Buddy olaf455's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by piglet View Post

    By the way olaf455, polyester might work OK, but I would use epoxy because epoxy is much tougher than polyester.
    At least I think so.
    Agreed, the polyester is what I had on hand and have fired in my 308 to 2400 fps with nothing left in the barrel. Will get epoxy next.
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  17. #917
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skip62 View Post
    $95 a liter, I've read that it does anywhere from 20,000 to 40,000 bullets. I guess depends on what bullet. Have not found anything that says 30,000 9mm bullets, for example. It's inexpensive, but rarely available and not as cheap as the piglet PC/A.
    Not starting a fight, but what that is shooting related is readily available since this silliness started?

  18. #918
    Boolit Buddy Skip62's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmiller View Post
    Not starting a fight, but what that is shooting related is readily available since this silliness started?
    Sorry, I don't understand the question. I was just answering piglets question, sorry if I crossed a line somewhere.

    skip

  19. #919
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    I didn't get that either. Hopefully bmiller will clarify what he meant.

    I've been following this behemoth thread forever, and I've REALLY been interested to see if gas checks can be omitted at rifle velocities. I've yet to see a definitive answer.

    And I've got one 9mm pistol that leads badly no matter what size and lube I've used so far. So I'm keen to try this at some point. Piglet's deal sounds cheap enough to try, but I'm reluctant to drop a C-note on an experiment from what I've read so far. I'm not much of a trail blazer, and I'm pretty well stuck on 45/45/10 Recluse Lube. Maybe someone will coax me out of my rut.

    Stan

  20. #920
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    Quote Originally Posted by Whizzer View Post
    I'm pretty well stuck on 45/45/10 Recluse Lube. Maybe someone will coax me out of my rut.

    Stan
    Well, I like the 45/45/10 for many of the boolits I cast, but the results from the P/C were stellar on the pistol I had a problem with. 9mm can be a problem with the shape of the case swaging down a boolit. There are other ways of getting around the problem, but this solved it for less than any other method. It works, but the jury is out on how fast we can go, and what the accuracy result is. So far it is a win for handgun, and will do the Piglett method, or standard P/C method just based on results, simplicity, and the ability to store boolits ready to shoot long term without worrying about the lube and temperature the boolits are stored at.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check