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Thread: lead bullets coated with polymer paint

  1. #21
    Boolit Buddy morrisammo's Avatar
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    I saw that the base was plain lead,,, so I'm guessing that they size the bullet, then spray them,

    Ok I can do that,, but where would I get this type od poly paint???


    Hmmmmmm

    Jim

  2. #22
    Boolit Master fryboy's Avatar
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    the true question is just what kind off plastic paint is it ??... looks alot like ford hi heat engine blue but i doubt if it's that easy lolz ( tho i did use the chevy orange-not red orange- for my lyman 45),barnes blue coating is similar ..wonder if duracoat would work ...... or perhaps epoxy paint .....most paints are a plastic of sorts ermm poylmer of sorts lolz oil based enamel would surely provide some kind of lubricity i would think tho i freely admit i'm in no hurry to try it lolz do we have a paint maker on board ? i suppose u could engineer such a paint but it's beyond me ATM

  3. #23
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    I have been looking for this stuff for years! bought some Fieochiee( SPELL?) .455 Webly ammo with something like this in black on it. It worked well enugh. If anyone has a link to the lube /paint please post it. Thanks...Buck
    NRA LIFER .. "THE CAST BULLET HANDLOADER IS THE ONLY ONE THAT REALLY MAKES ANY OF HIS AMMUNITION. OTHERS MEARLY ASSEMBLE IT". -E.H. HARRISON

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  4. #24
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    I saw some of these coated bullets at the Iinternational Revolver Championships.. (IRC). There were two aussie shooters that had blue and green coated lead bullets and the smoked considerably less than the JPW coated RN's I was shooting. I thought it was a novel concept and they tell me it is very common where they are from back in "Oz". Just a different way to look at things. They buy them that way. I saw no issue with accuracy issues out of their 627's.

  5. #25
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    My question is this ....

    would you have to test entirely new loading data for them? ie ... moly bullets vs. naked copper

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by riverwalker76 View Post
    My question is this ....

    would you have to test entirely new loading data for them? ie ... moly bullets vs. naked copper
    I would think it would be like changing any other lube formula. My experience has been that rifles are much more sensitive to that kind of thing than lead boolets thru handguns are. YMMV, of course.

    They would be interesting to try, but my interest would only be sustained if there were a practical way to apply the coating to my own homemade ones.

  7. #27
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    I was visiting with the owner of Bayou Bullets today. He said he tumble coats and then bakes his finish. Out of respect for his proprietary process I didn't ask too many questions. The bullets are slippery to handle and completely covered in the coating including the base. He had cast over 12,000 boolits for the day when I stopped by his shop around 1:00 p.m.

    David

  8. #28
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    I'm going to start experimenting with this product.

    http://www.qclubricants.com/msds/PDS/Lubribond220.pdf
    File Size = 34k

    I'm trying to conquer LEE TL before moving on to this. One challenge at a time.

    'da Kid

  9. #29
    Boolit Buddy morrisammo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by geargnasher View Post
    Yup, lead blows up Glocks every time! That's why there are so few living boolit casters.

    I wish I had an edit button for every time I read " I heard that ....blah blah. "

    Here's some more good ones: A drop of sweat falling into a pot of molten lead will cause it to explode. Tumbling loaded ammo creates a bomb or at least deteriorates powder. Shooting bullets made from old wheel weights will ruin your barrel. Dacron will ring your chamber. All common misconceptions, and because one dude who didn't know what he was doing shot a glock that was leading terribly and didn't pay attention to the increasing pressures shot it until it finally blew up. I guess there is a reason my Wife's hair dryer has this warning label on the side: DO NOT USE WHILE SLEEPING.

    Sorry for the rant, Morrisammo, it wasn't directed at you but those you hear these things from. It's always wise to err on the side of caution in this potentially dangerous business of reloading, casting, and shooting, but there's enough unqualified misinformation being propagated about our hobby without our help.

    Gear

    It is ALL good I hear all that **** too.....
    about Cast bullets are not good for this that and the other thnig,,, and then in a match I whooop their *** with them,,, oppppps the CAST Bullets must not have gotten your TEXT msg,,

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by The10mmKid View Post
    I'm going to start experimenting with this product.

    http://www.qclubricants.com/msds/PDS/Lubribond220.pdf
    File Size = 34k

    I'm trying to conquer LEE TL before moving on to this. One challenge at a time.

    'da Kid
    Very interesting but it seems quite expensive and has a short shelf life. How exactly would you apply it? Tumble, spray or dip? I would want to use a method that minimizes waste as much as possible given the cost.

  11. #31
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    Google up "PRO-TEC POWDER PAINT" I use it on jigheads for fishing.

    application is your problem though, the powder will not stick to anything not already hot or electrostatically charged while it is in powder form. Once it is applied and then oven cured you can beat the lead head flat with a hammer and not chip this stuff.

    Not sure how it would work in a gunbarrel and even nasty solvents like MEK and trichlorethelene have nil effect on it once cured...........YOU ARE ON YOUR OWN and I would try it on a spare barrel the first time out if you go this route.

  12. #32
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    I've tried a spray on lube sold by Caterpillar for lubing booms/outriggers, etc. It's a dry coating that looked like graphite, but according to the M.S.D.S. there was no graphite in it. I have coated some 240 LSW and shot them, as 44 Specials, in my 629 with no appearant leading. I just did it once, for 20 rounds, and will have to do another experiment a little more in depth. There may be some advantage to using Cat. spray but it's expensive and time consuming, but there was a lot of it laying around at work. I just tried it for polisi and grins...

  13. #33
    Boolit Buddy morrisammo's Avatar
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    http://www.ares-gun.sk/?lang=english


    Pretty

    Come on,,, someone needs to know how to get our hands on this type of paint,,

    I feel the need for PRETTY bullets!!!

  14. #34
    Boolit Master andrew375's Avatar
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    Interesting thread this.

    First off the floor polish I spoke of is for industrial use by cleaning staff where I work, they use it by the gallon. I have never seen it retail. I have seen similar products sold laminate flooring. Again look the label for "dilute with water, apply with a mop, leave to dry then buff to a shine." Also it has to say something about percentages (25% minimum) of solids. Again I've seen similar products being retailed for car polishes.

    See here for more info on wax emulsions

    I first got to know of these emulsions in the early 180's with a lube called IWOX sold by North Devon Firearms Services, this company may be familiar to some of you as makers of reloading dies and turned cases. This was a real boon for lubing the thousands of 230 gr. bullets I shot in practical pistol. I believe a similar product to Rooster Jacket so just buy that. It really does go a long way.

    The problem I see with the "polymer paints" is that they all appear to need baking on so you have to use an oven and all the hassle that involves. Plus also if you are depending on precipitation hardening (heat treatment) for your bullet hardness then this cooking will upset that. Also, is this the same stuff Barnes are using on thier bullets?

    The lubribond product is worth investigating. I've used lots of similar products on my bullets over the years since reading an article in HandLoader about Bullet Master Lube, which I believe is still available from Brownells. The stuff I use at present is in an anonymous red tin and came from an industrial lubricant supplier listed in the yellow pages. Just dip the bullet in and ten seconds later the coating is dry and ready to load.

    And here's the thing. All these lubricants are widely available, just not to the retail market. If you look in trade catalogues you will see many of these items. The downside is they come in really large pack sizes. The floor polish I currently use comes in 5 litre jugs, enough to do several hundred thousand bullets.

  15. #35
    Boolit Master

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    The stuff barnes used was from race car engines. From what Barnes said of the blue coating is it was sprayed on the engine components to reduce friction. I think it was baked on also.

    As a side note Barnes Triple shock with the grooves is not an original idea. Read an article in an old American Rifleman by Elmer Keith. Seems Keith's friend was a machinist and made bullets like this in the 30's but back then it was labor intensive and too expensive. Elmer said they were a good bullet though. His friend was one of the OKH crew.

    I would be interested in trying the paint on my boolits. If the environmental folks see this we will all be painting our boolits!

  16. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by geargnasher View Post
    I guess there is a reason my Wife's hair dryer has this warning label on the side: DO NOT USE WHILE SLEEPING.


    If I recall correctly, there was an insightful thread here about shooting Glocks with lead. Apparently there was more too it than just the type of rifling, but also the chamber spec or some such that was beyond me at the time I read it and still is. Can't seem to find it right now. Maybe it was a rabbit trail thread with a deceptive title.

  17. #37
    Boolit Master 63 Shiloh's Avatar
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    Yes, as stated, these coated boolits are widely used down here in Australia.

    A couple of names to google:

    Westcastings,

    Hawksbury River projectiles,

    Top Score cast bullets.

    The coating is not moly.

    The ones I use, Westcasting, are very consistent and well made boolits. There are different colour coatings for specific purposes. Including a boolit that is designed to work in Glocks with no leading.

    In fact, they are great to load for as nothing rubs off on your fingers and no lube to clog dies.

    I now use them exclusively for my IPSC gun, in .38 Super. I get excellent accuracy and absolutely no leading....ever!

    Still use traditional boolits with lube for my .38 spec, .357 mag, 45/70, 45LC.

    A mate uses Hawksbury River boolits for his .460 S&W, he uses the boolit with the 'high speed' coating. he also gets excellent results with these non-checked boolits at max vel.

    I am surprised to see that these boolits are not well know in the US.

    A smart man would make some coin if he could import these boolits into the US, they would take off quickly I imagine.

    Food for thought for a US based FFL holder.

    Mike

  18. #38
    Boolit Master oldtoolsniper's Avatar
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    And to think I finally figured out how to make Felix lube! Suppose I'll have to trade off the lube sizers and dies so I can get a paint booth and respirators.
    “Work hard! Millions on welfare depend on it!”

  19. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by geargnasher View Post
    Yup, lead blows up Glocks every time! That's why there are so few living boolit casters.

    I wish I had an edit button for every time I read " I heard that ....blah blah. "

    Here's some more good ones: A drop of sweat falling into a pot of molten lead will cause it to explode. Tumbling loaded ammo creates a bomb or at least deteriorates powder. Shooting bullets made from old wheel weights will ruin your barrel. Dacron will ring your chamber. All common misconceptions, and because one dude who didn't know what he was doing shot a glock that was leading terribly and didn't pay attention to the increasing pressures shot it until it finally blew up. I guess there is a reason my Wife's hair dryer has this warning label on the side: DO NOT USE WHILE SLEEPING.

    Sorry for the rant, Morrisammo, it wasn't directed at you but those you hear these things from. It's always wise to err on the side of caution in this potentially dangerous business of reloading, casting, and shooting, but there's enough unqualified misinformation being propagated about our hobby without our help.

    Gear
    I have hear the same from some people about casting. I was even told that by a gunsmith that alot of people stay away from casting due to what was just writtien on this Quote. Alot of people dose not have a clue on casting in the first place. My farther is the one that taught my brother and me about casting when we where young to make fishing sinkers for fresh water and salt water . The ones for salt water we had no molds and made our own by taken sand and wet it with water and then take newspaper for the shape you want for the sinker. The you pour the lead in the the shape that was made in the sand with the paper as a liner. after it is cool down we would drill a hole in them for the line to go in.My Dad had work in a foundry at on time and told me of things that he seen happend.
    Life Member of NRA,NTA,DAV ,ITA. Also member of FTA,CBA

  20. #40
    Boolit Master WILCO's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 357maximum View Post
    YOU ARE ON YOUR OWN and I would try it on a spare barrel the first time out if you go this route.
    I'll just stick with the conventional lubes available. Anyone else notice the dude in the video put a loaded gun to his head whilst putting on earmuffs?

    http://www.youtube.com/watch_popup?v=uS-MUUaHx78
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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check