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Thread: .45 gallery load?

  1. #21
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    ohio
    Posts
    20
    thanks everyone! have been shooting 3gr.bullseye with no trouble till now. had no problems in the rugers, but was shooting the open-tops the last couple days,and found the cylinders binding, after a longer time than it should have took, i realized why. the primers were backing out! i didn't know that low pressure creates it's own problems.(besides dirty cases,or maybe stuck bullets) so,i bumped my loads up to 4gr.,hopefully will be what i need. thanks again guys.

  2. #22
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Posts
    760
    This is really an old thread, but worth reviving .
    I think there is quite a difference in the loads being talked about here.
    From primer power only to three and finally four grains of Bullseye.
    Also mixing wax loads, hot glue loads weighing 17 grains, the weight of a heavy pellet for an airgun pellet rifle on one hand.
    And 160 to 200 grain lead bullet loads using three to four grains of Bullseye.
    There are gallery loads for the garage and basement and gallery loads for a shooting range that are not really suitable for a garage or basement unless you live out in the country where your neighbors are a mile or more away.
    I am just concerned that a new shooter may read this and think they can get away with some of these loads and be in deep trouble if they try them.
    Once you get arrested and lose your firearms rights, it is almost impossible to get them back.
    Be sure you know what you are doing when you pull the trigger.
    After that, you can't get a do-over.
    The above postings can all be done safely, but they are not all in the same power category, so be advised.
    Be sure and think before it's too late.
    Also, animals have been killed with wax loads, so if think you can 'sting' a dog or cat in your yard with a wax load, or even shoot someone in the butt with a wax load, be aware, that if you are close enough, they easily penetrate cloth and skin and never shoot wax or any other projectile at living beings unless you want to harm them or kill them.
    No joke!
    Last edited by Alferd Packer; 04-03-2020 at 01:57 AM.

  3. #23
    Boolit Master RU shooter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    SW Pa.
    Posts
    2,928
    Quote Originally Posted by Shooter6br View Post
    Try using glue sticks cut like WC I used them in 45 ACP See Web site WWW. ammomsmith.com.Lots of good info.The only draw back was the glue stick WC'ers fouled my Sig barrel badly I did alittle testing The WC is about 17g in weight FPS 300 out of a 3.75in barrel P.S Ed's Red cleaned the barrel with a Nylon brush
    Did you use any kinda lube on the glue stick WC ? A few years ago I made up some glue stick bullets for my 32 spl rifle just a primer wasn't powerful enough so I added 1.5 grs of Bullseye and just wiped the bullet with a dab of olive oil, they shot well enough at 25 ft in the back yard didn't have any residue in that 20" barrel and could still reload the fired bullets
    If you find yourself in a fair fight, your tactics suck!

  4. #24
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Posts
    760
    Quote Originally Posted by challenger_i View Post
    Pour up a 1/2" pad of beeswax, let it cool. Push primed cases into the wax sheet. I have had good luck firing these in the garage, and they hit right, in my Colt New Service.
    Always push unprimed cases into wax.
    Only prime them after wax is in case.
    Otherwise trapped air is compressed and makes wax creep back out of case before you shoot. Wax bullet can stick out end of cylinder tying up gun.
    It happens, though not all the time. But once will make a believer out of you.

  5. #25
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Posts
    760
    I use a card disk that I lay atop the wax before i press the shell down on it.
    When the primer fires, the blast hits the cardboard disk and pushes the wax out.
    The card disk is like a gas check and keeps the barrel cleaner much longer.
    YMMV
    One other thing.
    I never start shooting without lubing the barrel with a wet lube patch. A dry barrel is just asking for trouble and added wear.
    Just lube it first, lightly of course.
    My Dad taught me that,easier to clean after shooting too.
    Mineral spirits or gasoline or lighter fluid will clean out any wax buildup pretty easy.
    Don't smoke when using cleaners.
    Last edited by Alferd Packer; 02-01-2020 at 04:39 PM.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check