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Thread: Container Reloading room ?

  1. #1
    Boolit Master



    shooterg's Avatar
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    Container Reloading room ?

    Anybody done it ? I'm seriously considering buying a container, adding a metal side door, and moving a lot of reloading/casting stuff into it. Losing "my room" to make room for the one and only grandboy and this looks like a quick way to do it. 20' x 8' x 8' can hold a lot if organized( I hope !).

    I could paint it to look like a BIG .50 cal. can !

  2. #2
    Love Life
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    I've never used one for a reloading room, but I've seen them used for everything else under the sun. Go for it.

  3. #3
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    How will you heat/cool it? I would think it would be hotter than hell in summer and freezing cold in winter.
    You will learn far more at the casting, loading, and shooting bench than you ever will at a computer bench.

  4. #4
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    Get one of them Mitsubishi systems. They work great and are quite resilient.

  5. #5
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    Don't use propane heat.
    Caused condensation on the outside of all my ammo cans.
    Room temp was 45 and I brought it up to 75
    Don't like being hammered by the Cast Boolits Staff, then don't be a nail.
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  6. #6
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    Its not then just the dew point. Propane introduces h2o into the air.
    Don't like being hammered by the Cast Boolits Staff, then don't be a nail.
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  7. #7
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by HATCH View Post
    Its not then just the dew point. Propane introduces h2o into the air.
    Assuming you aren't venting it. Burning any fossil fuel is going to introduce water vapor into the air. It's just a matter of how much. No matter what you heat w/ it should be vented. A container is a small space and will fill up w/ the byproducts of combustion quickly.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master


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    As a kid my father got a stainless trailer. We removed the axles and set it down on the ground. It was a storage/workshop building. In the summer temps got way beyond bearable even with the end doors open. Heat is not good for powder ,primers or ammo.
    It could be heated easily in the winter. A small natural gas stove was all you needed but you had to watch for oxygen depletion. I think you would need to stud the walls and insulate. Foam insulation may be ideal. Then find a heating cooling system.
    Cost on used units is quite reasonable plus they are not easy to break into.

  9. #9
    Boolit Mold
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    I have thought about using one for a general purpose shed. The bad part is when I see them like this the gears start turning and the budget is forgotten

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    Friend took 2 40's and welded them together side by side. Cut a couple arches in between, put a lean-to roof on it, 2 inches of foil faced foam was glued/screwed onto the outside then he covered it with 4x8 sheet siding. Looks like a regular building from outside. And without finishing the inside you don't lose space.

  11. #11
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    It has been an idea of mine for a long time. I want it underground, however I do not have the space to put it.
    Paul G.
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  12. #12
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    Undergorund you need to reinforce it. The walls and roof are not designed to take a load, just the corners are

  13. #13
    Boolit Grand Master Artful's Avatar
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    je suis charlie

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  14. #14
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    Had one, rented. Hot in the summer, cold in the winter. Unless you can get it delivered for free you probably can build something cheaper, I did.

  15. #15
    Boolit Grand Master Harter66's Avatar
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    Out here I've seen them hit 160* with the end open on a 90* day.

    If I were to do 1 I would set 2x4s flat in the ribs and sheet it inside and out the foam in the ribs. As an alternate for the outside it could be foamed flush the fiberglass mat covered an Sno-coat painted with the same over the roof. This will provide about an r12-14 insulation value and reduce the inside dimensions to 91x 229 with a straight end opening container and sheet rock or plywood/osb inside . I would leave the doors and build a false wall with a standard door and false ceiling to insulate rather than outside. This would allow you to "just load it up and move if needed. The false wall will give you an option for mounting an AC unit and heat.

    Pre planning your layout you could have welded attach points for all the shelves and benches. Be sure to check out the floor joists and fix any that are gimpy many of the vans will have had up to 45,000 lbs in them and 15,000 lbs of fork lifts in and out across the floors. If you expect to move 1 hold it to 32,000 lbs of stuff and put the heavy end towards the taillights of a tractor trailer. The containers weigh 5000 lbs empty for the all steel units 46-4800 for the composite walled units.
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  16. #16
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    I would most definitely insulate, a heat pump system might work for you if it doesn't get too cold where you live.
    As others said definitely vent any type of combustion heat source at least for your own health and safety.
    "Don't worry what they think. In the end it is not between them and you, it is between you and God."

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  17. #17
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    I built my 10x12 shop in the backyard for under $750. All wood construction, R19 walls R38 ceiling, shingle roof, rain gutters, 10K window AC unit works GREAT! Wood breathes and will funcion MUCH better than a metal can. Small electric heater in the winter if needed......NOT any combustion style heaters.

    With an insulated building like this, the internal temp has NEVER gotten above 98F inside with the outside temp of 115F (AZ summer). And the A/C cools it down to 75F in a matter of munutes. Excellent insulation is the reason!!!!!! Worth the investment! Same thing with winter temps in cold climates.

    Leave the metal containers for shipping.

  18. #18
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    One local guy had his coated and buried into a hill with just the door sticking out. He used it for a root cellar/tornado shelter/prepper store, but on a 100 degree 98% humidity Oklahoma day, it was only 65 inside that thing.
    "In God we trust, in all others, check the manual!"

  19. #19
    Boolit Master flyingmonkey35's Avatar
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    Plenty of perper videos on how to bury one properly.

    Also will your city let you have one?

  20. #20
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    I had a friend in AK that had a big one he used for his bullet casting business. He had a lot of stuff in there & turned out a lot of bullets & kept warm in the winter.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check