Citric acid brass cleaner

[MtGun44]

The vinegar is acetic acid and the citric acid does roughly the same thing. No need for the vinegar, I would think.
Soap - not sure if needed, don't think it would hurt.

[sagacious]

What would you have with 1/2 gallon water + 1/2 gallon vinegar + 2 oz citric acid powder +two drops dish soap. would that work good? TIA--Turk

Vinegar contains acetic acid, which leaves an acetate and/or acid residue on the cases. That prevents passivation.

Everyone has heard of the "cleaning power of lemon." That's mostly from the citric acid. Soap is not needed when using citric acid, but I don't think it would hurt.

One of the advantages of citric acid is that it cleans brass very well at low concentrations. The rule of thumb for citric and brass is that increasing the soak time is generally as-effective as increasing the solution strength, but more economical. There is always the natural drive to "improve upon" a good thing, but consider that the acetic acid cancels most of the benefits of the citric acid. Good luck.

[Molly]

[QUOTE=cbrick;918626 For right now all looks good, by far the easiest and fastest oily molds I've ever made totally oil free.[/QUOTE]

Try bringing a sauce pan with a couple inches of water and a few drops of dish detergent to a boil. Then open the blocks (on handles) and immerse them in the solution. When the boil returns, whip the mold out of the solution and dry it instantly on a cotton cloth. It will be so free of oil that you have to keep it hot or it will become susceptable to rusting at room temperature.

[cbrick]

Try bringing a sauce pan with a couple inches of water and a few drops of dish detergent to a boil. Then open the blocks (on handles) and immerse them in the solution. When the boil returns, whip the mold out of the solution and dry it instantly on a cotton cloth. It will be so free of oil that you have to keep it hot or it will become susceptable to rusting at room temperature.

The sonic cleaner is faster than just waiting for the water to boil . . . the first time. Plus, no soap residue, rust or anything else left in the cavities.

I wasn't sure when/if this would come up, but this is probably a good time. A citric solution used on iron should not be used for cleaning copper, or vice-versa. Keep citric-for-iron and citric-for-brass solutions separate.

It seems the case hardening appearance on the first three molds was due to having cleaned brass with the solution first and sag was right, keep separate solution for brass & iron. Doesn't seem to have caused any harm, just the coloring.

This morning I cleaned up the Hornady Sonic Cleaner & filled with fresh citric acid solution. I completely dis-assembled the new & oily Lyman 2 cav and ran it for one cycle (480 seconds), rinsed in denatured alcohol & blew dry with compressed air, screws & all.

The mold came out bright silver, not a spec of color anywhere, even inside threaded holes are bright & shiny.

I'm delighted this works as well as it does, new oily molds are the reason I bought the sonic cleaner in the first place, cartridge cases are a secondary reason. I've now cleaned three brand new molds and one old rusted one with citric acid in the sonic cleaner and none of them needed any break in at all. Sonic cleaner, alcohol, blow dry, pre-heat and the first boolits are perfect. From taking an oily mold out of the box to starting to pre-heating it was about 12 minutes. Amazing. I have almost hated new and/or oily molds in the past, well, almost. Not any more.

Rick

[357maximum]

This is a great method I have used it a few times now,and brought some very ugly brass back to life....................THANK YOU


FYI.....DO NOT dip your finger in the mix and touch your toungue (just to see) your toungue will still feel funny, numb and hairy several days after the fact.

[WallyM3]

Thanks for the warning.

[NSP64]

your toungue will still feel funny, numb and hairy several days after the fact.

Sounds like the last time I drank Taquilla

[Turk]

what is that stuff they advertise on tv for cleaning the tarnish off of silver bowls,plates etc. looks like it works instantly

[Turk]

was it revere copper cleaner i saw?

[sagacious]

what is that stuff they advertise on tv for cleaning the tarnish off of silver bowls,plates etc. looks like it works instantly

You may have seen a TarnX commercial, or something with a similar active agent. It does work instantly. In the past, though, I have seen that TarnX can damage/discolor metal items left in solution too long, and can cause some eventual discoloring. I'm not 100% sure it's "safe" for cartridge brass.

My container of TarnX says it contains sulfamic acid and thiourea. Neither will passivate brass like citric will. Both compounds contain sulfur, and if any residue remains on the case, the breakdown of the residue can allow sulfur to react with the metal (this may possibly have caused the eventual discoloration I have seen). In effect, this would be the opposite of passivation.

The copper in brass readily reacts with sulfur to form copper sulfate, and this can definitely damage brass. Has anyone ever seen what happens when brass cartridge cases are stored bundled in a rubberband? The brass will eventually be damaged where the rubberband contacts it, because of the sulfur in the rubber. A rubberband in contact with copper or bronze will do the same. Sulfur and brass are not good neighbors.

The thiourea molecule has both a sulfur atom and an amine hanging off it. The amine is an ammonia derivative, and presents the possibility of forming small amounts of ammonia during storage of the brass. I am not exactly sure of the degree of risk posed, but it does not make me feel all snuggly and comfy.

Regards, and good luck.

[WallyM3]

I have used "Copper Twinkle" in the past to clean non-cartridge brass. If all of it is not completely rinsed off, it will create verdigris in rapid order. I don't have a box handy, so I can't relate the ingredients.

For copper cookware, it's a favorite of mine. Cleans off all the schmutz, no matter what.

For cartridge brass? Not so much.

BTW, if you bind sterling silver flatware with a rubber band, it will eventually eat it's way through the silver.

.....

And sagacious, have you changed your avatar?

[joatmon]

Post 176 brings up greased lighting in the process, if you use it be sure to remove any blazer empties that might contain aluminum. Left in awhile turns all brass in the pot black(or so I've been told).

Aaron

[WallyM3]

That's not a good thing.

Thanks, joatmon.

.....

I was doing a little bit of idle Googling this evening, and came upon a recommendation to use Catsup/Ketchup as a brass cleaner.

Hmmm. Doesn't sound like something I'd jump on. Is there a sound reason for my skepticism?

[cbrick]

Post 176 brings up greased lighting in the process, if you use it be sure to remove any blazer empties that might contain aluminum. Left in awhile turns all brass in the pot black(or so I've been told). Aaron

Not to worry, I haven't bought factory ammo since before they invented that silly throw away aluminum cartridge case.

Anyway, the GL was just a one time experiment. It did do an excellent job of cleaning, even the primer pockets and interior. Yep, rinsed vigorously afterward so I don't know if it turns brass black or not, it didn't before I rinsed it.

Rick

[sagacious]

Wally,
Exactly, many of these metal cleaners work great for non-critical applications.

Good warning, silver undergoes the same reaction-- silver sulfide. The tiniest trace amount of sulfur compounds will tarnish silver rapidly. More than that will cause severe corrosion.

I didn't have an avatar. The M57 doesn't show up well in the pic, so it may be replaced.

[No_1]

I have had the wife on the hunt for citric acid at the local Publix (grocery) and Walmart but have had no luck.

I did try some lemon juice she had on hand. As a test I put about 1/2" in a small cup then stood 1 tarnished 30/30 & 22 Hornet case in it. Within a few minutes the lower 1/2 of the cases had a noticeable difference in coloring. I would consider them as clean / tarnish free. I guess it would be more expensive than the citric acid but it will do the job for those that cannot find the powder form locally.

Robert

[WallyM3]

Re: sagacoius:

Well, at least I noticed a change.

I'm a .41 Magnum/Special nut, too. But, all the N-frames look alike to me: 27/28s, 24s, 25s, 29s, etc.

But I see that we are part of the pre-ban Ivory brotherhood.

[sagacious]

Re: sagacoius:

Well, at least I noticed a change.

I'm a .41 Magnum/Special nut, too. But, all the N-frames look alike to me: 27/28s, 24s, 25s, 29s, etc.

But I see that we are part of the pre-ban Ivory brotherhood.

Wally,
Yes, indeed! Excuse my sterile reply above. It's's a beautiful shooting iron, with ultra-deep blue and ivory grip, but a thumbnail photo can never do justice. I may just have to get used to the fuzzy pic.

I had a great BlueDot load that I liked a lot, and then along came the 41/BD prohibition, so I'll have to start the process over again with a new powder. Do you have a favorite recipe for the 41?

[sagacious]

I have had the wife on the hunt for citric acid at the local Publix (grocery) and Walmart but have had no luck.
...
Robert

Robert,
You may wish to see if your yellowpages lists a wine-making supply, soap-making supply, or a restaurant-supply store. There's also the LemiShine option; the active ingredient is citric acid-- get it at Walmart.

If no local supply is available, you may wish to check out the online sources. Here's a source of citric acid at $3.25/lb. http://www.brambleberry.com/Citric-Acid-P3753.aspx

Someone may have already posted that link, it seems like a very good price. If one needed to remove the rust from some large pieces of equipment, their price of $22.50/10lbs is a great deal. Good luck.

[No_1]

Thanks Sagacious,

I have found many on-line suppliers but was looking for it local. I still have a few more places to check as well as a friend who makes wine in his garage. I will find some with time.

Robert