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Thread: Lube stick molds - my version

  1. #41
    Boolit Master
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    Rockchucker,

    Won't your Star allow you to use the hollow sticks just like they are?

    CDOC

  2. #42
    Boolit Master Rockchucker's Avatar
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    Really don't know the answer to that, I read somewhere here at Cast Boolits that the hollow sticks causes air to be introduced and improper lube fill out was present on their boolits. Since the Star takes solid lube I thought I'd try the pvc mold and melt them down.
    NRA Life Member

  3. #43
    Boolit Master
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    Got ya! Seems like that could be a possibility.

    CDOC

  4. #44
    Boolit Master
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    The nice thing about pouring melted lube into your lubrisizer is when you are finished sizing for the day, heat up some lube and pour it in. It will harden and have a full resevour for the next sesssion. With full sticks you can do the same, but you need to cut sticksv to fill as needed.

    But I went ahead and built a PVC tube mold. 8 tubes. But I didn't lubricate the inside of the molds and had a bugger of a time getting the lube stick out. Next time I'm spraying the inside of the PVC with PAM cooking spray.
    Roy B
    Massachusetts

    www.rvbprecision.com

  5. #45
    Boolit Master



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    rbertaloto;
    When using bulk lube or home made lube, I melt and pour into my sizer. If you are having problems removing the lube from PVC tube molds, just use a hair dryer or heat gun - a judicious application of heat will release the lube (slick as, well, grease)

    Dale53

  6. #46
    Boolit Master


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    I have used some sticks with the rod hole in the center in my Magma without any problems what so ever. I use a 50/50 mixture and it compresses fine inside the cylinder of the Magma.

  7. #47
    Boolit Buddy
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    Thought i would chime in.
    I modified a caulking gun with some 1 1/4 pvc adapters and can now push out my sticks so easy i dont need to heat or prelube the moulds to push outmy sticks.
    I removed the push plate from the gun and attached a 1" dowl for pushing the stick.

  8. #48
    Boolit Bub aa1911's Avatar
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    awesome sticky, and thanks to the OP and others who posted pics of their PVC molds. I will be copying as well! and I like the caulking gun idea too, to help push out the lube.

    I'm almost thru my recent batch of Lyman lube, going to home brew from now on. Off to Home depot for some end caps and will have to add some cooking spray to my reloading bench.
    I cast, therefore I am (well supplied with bullets!)

    NRA Life Member

  9. #49
    Boolit Bub mo_bio's Avatar
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    Thanks to the Op for this post and idea. I made 4 of these molds and poured some DARR into it. Works like a charm

  10. #50
    Boolit Mold
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    PVC mold for lube

    I'm new to the forum and to making lube (Ben's Red, in this case) and the PVC idea occurred to me, so I built these.

    No surprise to see its been done. That rod is 1/4" all-thread which the lube may not want to let go of when I try to push it out of the tube. I figure that at worst I can screw it out. The idea of aluminum tubing never occurred to me; looks good.

    I thought of pouring straight into the 450 but that gives no pre-molded lube storage and it takes a while to liquefy a batch of Reds to pour.

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    Precisely following Red's formula and instructions, I got what seems to be a good batch of 16 oz.
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    Which I melted down (2.5 hrs in a double boiler not quite boiling - the stuff is tough!)
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    And then poured into the molds. (The hot plate is off - it's just there.)
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    It took three of those 1"-wide strips to fill two 4 1/2" molds. I'll melt more next time.

    They are in the refrigerator now; I'll remove them in the morning and see how the come out of the mold.



    Pilgrim

  11. #51
    Boolit Master


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    When I made lube with a hole down the center I used a large nail instead of the 1/4" rod you used. The smooth surface of the nail makes pushing the lube from the PVC a lot easier. I believe there was a UTube video on it 4 or 5 years ago. You might try molding without the 1/4" rod all together an let the contents of the mold solidify and then simply drill it with a 12" jobber drill. I found that worked better than playing with a nail down the center or a
    1/4" rod. Those that have a Star/Magma or Ballisti-Cast Model VI will use the lube without the hole. I have found however the lube I made years ago for the Lyman with the hole in it still works fine and will compress well with the heat needed to get it to the temp needed to flow correctly. I using a batch of lube right now that I recently found that has a hole down the center and it works fine .. no air pockets like some claim.

    One last thing.... I went to using a long 2' piece of PVC instead of playing with the little lengths. Its going to take a while to harden either way. When hardened it pushes out ok and I simply push the whole length out and cut into pieces and store in a plastic container.
    Last edited by 6bg6ga; 09-12-2013 at 05:54 AM.

  12. #52
    Boolit Mold
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    Taken straight from the refrigerator to the workbench, the lube sticks slid right out of the pipe without effort.

    As expected, the 1/4-20 all-thread did not want to pull out but my battery-powered drill unscrewed them right handily. However, I think I'll make the next batch using a 1/4" nylon rod with a pointed end, instead.

    The "knobs" on the sticks, an artifact of the PVC end cap, were sliced off and fed piecemeal into the 450 chamber atop the lube stick. It's not a problem having the knobs but I think I'll switch to using a plug instead of the caps. A small hole in the plug will serve to center the rod, which I will slip in before the stuff set up.

    The stuff flowed quite easily through the machine and fills the lube grooves nicely, but it is kinda soft (but not at all gooey) and pretty darn slippery, too much so to be easy to handle once in the bullets. I think I'll recast the batch with a little less STP and a tad more beeswax.

    My thanks to those who have had good ideas before me that contribute to what will become my set-up.

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  13. #53
    Boolit Mold
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    I basically built the same type as others.. with PVC. I got tired of dealing with the lid (to center the nail). Ended up drilling tiny holes in the edge and use paper clips. Now I can just look and make sure they are all centered (ocd) and pour right in. Since I use carnuba red and never had luck guessing the temps, I just let them cool completely then pull them out of the stands, put the nail end in a vice, twist to break bond with nail, hit the pvc with the heat gun, and slowly pull. I don't even bother with pam or oil. Just heat it up a bit will do the same.

    parts used

    piece of poplar for the base
    1" I.D. pvc tube
    tube one size up to fit 1" I.D. tube (for the stands)
    paperclips
    8" x 3/8" diameter nails (could have used shorter nails)
    1" washers (that fits in 1" I.D. tube and over the nail)


  14. #54
    Boolit Master


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    I went the same route as you when I had the other sizer that needed the lube stick with the hole down the center with the exception that I used large nails for my holes. After trying the nails it was too much trouble and I lost the nails and simply drilled a hole thru the center of the lube stick.

  15. #55
    Boolit Master
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    Magnetik,

    Your idea of the wires holding the rod is just soooooo much better then the cap with the hole through it. Thanks!!!

    Crusty Deary Ol'Coot

  16. #56
    Boolit Mold
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    It sure does make it easier to pour in big batches not dealing with lids anymore. for what it's worth.. I have switched from paper clips to solid copper wire. It seems to hold everything in place a lot better.

    Quote Originally Posted by Crusty Deary Ol'Coot View Post
    Magnetik,

    Your idea of the wires holding the rod is just soooooo much better then the cap with the hole through it. Thanks!!!

    Crusty Deary Ol'Coot

  17. #57
    I had just gathered up materials to make a bunch of PVC molds when I joined CB and found this thread. I had originally bought the domed caps, then found a store with the flat ones. Figured out I can use the domed ones on top since they're just there to center the dowel. Thinking about finishing the dowels with poly or some other hard finish to make it easier to pull out of the stick. My plan is to put the dowels through the bottom caps, a couple of inches into a hole drilled in a big stable hunk of lumber. I also plan on slipping rubber O-rings where the dowels go through the lower cap to prevent leaks. I will also be mounting the push-out dowel to the same lumber base, so I can just pull down on the tubes to eject the sticks. Thinking about a 3/8 hole down the push-out dowel too, or just leave it flat with a centering dimple to start the center dowels out at the same time...
    Rockchucker - The air will compress. That's a lot of pressure to push a hard lube through the passage in a lubrisizer.
    Balduran - Got any pix of your modified caulk pusher?

  18. #58
    Boolit Man pete501's Avatar
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    I started out using a 3' section pvc with a 3/8" dowel centered within end caps. I found it hard to get the lube out after it cooled. I tried pouring hot water outside the pipe to soften and release it. It did work but was difficult to remove. In the end I had a long section of lube which I cut to desired length.

    The solution was to use a 3' Copper Pipe. Copper transfers heat well and will release the whole thing after pouring HOT water over several times. Instead of the dowel for the center hole, I found a 3/8" brass hollow tube at the hardware store. When everything is cooled, I use a Coleman funnel that fits inside the tube and use hot water and the brass tube slips out easily.

    For melting the lube I use a canning jar inside a 2 gallon pot full of boiling water. A easy way to double boil everything. When the jar has been fully melted, I replace the flat canning lid with one that has a small section cut for accurate pouring into the copper tube. The tube is not mounted to anything so it is important that you secure the bottom cap and brass tube with electrical tape.. Also the whole mess of lube will shrink when it cools so I always top it off.

  19. #59
    I created a version of the OP's mold system as well mounted in a piece of 2x4. Mixing up a batch of Lithi-Bee now and hope to test the molds tonight! Unfortunately I dont have a luberisizer yet...Planning to get one soon so my molded lube will have to sit and wait 'till then.

    Big thanks to all who posted tips/ideas!

    Kraken FFan #69

  20. #60
    Boolit Man gunarea's Avatar
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    lube mould, my version

    Hey Folks
    The method I use is a copy of what my mentor, Mr. George Forest, came up with some eighty years ago. Modern products have been employed to replace some of the parts, but the idea is identical. Mr. Forest made his tube moulds from steel pipe and originaly the stem void was done with arrow shafts, later he got steel rods. As a teenager I was tasked with stripping moulds and cleanup. After years of apprenticeship, everything except "brewing" fell into my skill repatriore. A batch of "Best Lube" generally produced around 160 sticks of the hollow core type. Making the solid sticks was even simpler but yeilded fewer sticks of course. This stickie is about lube forms, so I won't stray except to note "Best Lube" does not need lubricant on anything to release cleanly from any of the mould parts. My particular mould system is much smaller than that of Mr. Forest since I do not produce commercialy. You can easily modify this method to suit your needs. The two men in the pictures are students making lube using my mould system.
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ID:	108958Begin with a 1" X (whatever is applicable) pine board, width will add stability and is very easy to level. Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	108957 A hole saw will cut a groove to accept the pipe form and give a positively centered pilot hole for stick. Depth of cut is not critical but should be 3/8" to 1/2". 1" PVC pipe cut to lenght must have a bevel ground on one end to fit snugly into the hole saw groove. For a 3/8" dowel, drill a 5/16" hole through the hole saw pilot hole. A pencil sharpener will quickly taper one end of the dowel to fit snugly into the center hole. Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	108954 This batching/mould system has been used many times so I am quite sure of the validity of the information I am passing to you. Click image for larger version. 

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    Stripping of the forms is also very simple. After pouring all warm lube into moulds, allow ample time for cooling.Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	108959 Gang moulds take longer for interior moulds to cool properly. A simple push stick and a little practice makes stripping quick and easy. Technique tip; holding the PVC form, put two fingers on the top with the dowel between them. First part of the push will free up the dowel. Then grip the PVC form fully and push the stick out.Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	108955 Here is my neanderthal rendering of a push out. The PVC Tee became needed as my arthritis progresses. Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	108789 This is my offering to those who would appreciate it. I don't say it is THE way to do it, only that it is A way to do it. Couple tips of mine is wrap sticks in aluminum foil, get someone else to do it and never offer to sell it. Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	108790 My hope is this information will help someone.
    Roy
    Last edited by gunarea; 06-27-2014 at 08:24 AM. Reason: To get pictures included

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check