RotoMetals2MidSouth Shooters SupplyStainLess Steel MediaLee Precision
Titan ReloadingADvertise hereInline FabricationGraf & Sons

Page 1 of 4 1234 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 70

Thread: Lube stick molds - my version

  1. #1
    Boolit Master

    ghh3rd's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Tampa FL
    Posts
    1,819

    Lube stick molds - my version

    Here's my stab at making lube sticks. I figured I'd post it, since it's adapted from other posts, along with some of my own ideas.

    [/IMG]

    The PVC and fittings are all 1".

    I used a 1" spade to drill perhaps 3/16 deep into the wood in order to help cradle the rounded bottom caps. As overkill, I even filled the holes under the caps with expoxy before screwing the caps down.

    The tubes are 5" long. I used fine sandpaper on the ends of the tubes followed by 600 paper to help them slide in and out of the caps easily.

    The 3/8" aluminum rods are cut 7" long. I rounded one end to rest in the bottom cap.

    I drilled holes dead center in the top caps (7/16" so the rods can slip through the hole)

    I used washers that fill the bottom cap, to aid in centering the rod. The hole in the washer is smaller than the 3/8" aluminum rod. The rounded end of the rod rests in the hole in the washer.

    [/IMG]

    The process is:

    Drop a washer into each bottom cap.

    Put a tube completly into each bottom cap so it touches the washer.

    Put the rounded end of the aluminum rod into the washer hole and let the rod lay against the top end of the tube. The bottom of the rod is now centered.

    Fill the tube with lube (about 1/2" from the top) and affix the top cap over the tube and rod. This will center the top of the rod.

    After cooling off, remove the tubes and leave the aluminum rod in place.

    [/IMG]

    [/IMG]

    Take a 1" piece of dowell (mine was 16" long for ease of use) and push it against the "pour end" of the lube, since it isn't completely filled. This also squares off that end of the stick nicely. The aluminum rod will move to accomodate the dowell.

    Since I put mine into the fridge for a while, I had to run a hair dryer on high over each one for 1 - 1.5 minutes. Push firmly and the lube stick will slide out.

    To remove the aluminum rod without distorting the end of the lube stick, I put an oversized washer on the lube and pushed it with my fingers.

    [/IMG]

    The finished product - 4" lube sticks with 3/8" hole for Lyman, etc. lube sizers.

    [/IMG]

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Deary, Ideeeeeeho
    Posts
    2,245
    Nice job ghh3rd.

    I picked up the parts for a mold awhile back, but haven't gotten to the assumbly point as yet.

    One question, ------ you have a washer held in place by a screw in your lower end cap, but as I read your post, I think I understand that you put a second washer in the lower cap before installing the tube and filling the mold.

    Is this correct?

    If so, is this the washer you then use to push the lube stick off the aluminum rod and does it come out of the lower cap when you remove the tube w/lube inside?

    Thanks.

    Keep em coming!

    Crusty Deary Ol'Coot

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    The United States of Texas
    Posts
    3,279


    That is slick and absolutely top shelf! And I'm going to shamelessly duplicate it.

    GOOD job!


  4. #4
    Boolit Master

    ghh3rd's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Tampa FL
    Posts
    1,819
    you have a washer held in place by a screw in your lower end cap, but as I read your post, I think I understand that you put a second washer in the lower cap before installing the tube and filling the mold.
    No, the washer that you see in the bottom cap is just resting there, unattached. It's the one I was referrring to.

    This washer needs to be unattached so the hole is available for the tapered end of the rod to sit into so it centers. The pic is deceiving...

    If so, is this the washer you then use to push the lube stick off the aluminum rod and does it come out of the lower cap when you remove the tube w/lube inside?
    The washer I use to push the lube off the aluminum rod is one I found with a hole large enough for the rod to fit through. unlike all of the other washers. The first time I tried to slide the lube off the rod with my fingers I realized that I was going to "smush" the end of the lube, so I slid in a washer over the lube and it made it easy to slide the lube off without distorting it.

    Funny thing - the washers at the bottom didn't stick to the lube for some reason. Even if they do, it would be easy to take them off.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master wistlepig1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Brighton,Colorado
    Posts
    784
    Nice job ghh3rd and your not nearly as messy as I was with my first batch.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
    GOPHER SLAYER's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Cherry Valley ,Ca.
    Posts
    1,829

    Lube sticks

    I think those lube molds are great and show some real inventiveness . I had thought of making some type of mold but decided ,since I was melting the lube anyway why not just pour it into the reservoir of the sizer, and that is what I do. I have a hot air blower that I bought to remove paint . It gets much hotter than a hair dryer. The lube is in a one pound coffee can so I just point the blower inside the can and let the lube run out into the sizer and so far I haven't spilled any. I hold the can with a large pair of channellock pliers.
    A GUN THAT'S COCKED AND UNLOADED AIN'T GOOD FOR NUTHIN'........... ROOSTER COGBURN

  7. #7
    Black Powder 100%


    cajun shooter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Livingston, La. 20 miles east of Baton Rouge, La.
    Posts
    4,375
    I use a simalar method without the top and I make solid sticks for the Star. Before pouring my lube into the PVC I spray a store brand olive oil cooking spray into the tubes. When it comes time to push them out with the 1 inch dowel, it is very easy. Later David
    Shooter of the "HOLY BLACK" SASS 81802 AKA FAIRSHAKE; NRA ; BOLD; WARTHOG;Deadwood Marshal;Bayou Bounty Hunter; So That his place shall never be with those cold and timid souls who neither know victory nor defeat; 44 WCF filled to the top, 210 gr. bullet

  8. #8
    Boolit Master fredj338's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    kalif.
    Posts
    5,277
    Great job! Now to adapt that for my Star w/ no hole.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master Thumbcocker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    East Central Illinois
    Posts
    2,053
    How about a sticky on lube stick moulds?
    You'll go far providin' you ain't burnt alive or scalped."

    Will Geer as Bear Claw in "Jeramiah Johnson"

  10. #10
    Boolit Master zardoz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Tennessee
    Posts
    262
    I finally sprang for an RCBS Lube-a-Matic after I purchased a Perdersoli Sharps 50-90. Reason being, I wanted the .512" sizing die. Before I had been pan lubing and tumble lubing everything. Had been using the Lee sizers before, but this was new territory.

    Well, I got ONE stick of SPG, and that stuff is not very cheap. So, I found this thread, and quickly constructed a reasonable facsimile of the lube mold depicted. Not as nice looking as the original in the post, as mine was a rush job.

    Mixed up some of the modified Emmerts formula. 5 parts beeswax, 4 parts zero sodium Crisco, 1/2 part jojoba oil, and 1/2 part lanolin.

    Well, it works great! I could not find a 3/8" aluminum rod, so hacksawed a 3/8" steel rod. Wiping everything down inside and out with silicone spray wetted paper towels, the lube just slid out of the forms easily, and the rods pulled out easier still.

    Now, I may have to make some sticks of my 9mm lube formula. This is pretty neat.






  11. #11
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Misty Mountains
    Posts
    928
    Looks great. Much fancier than my setup. Good on ya.
    ph4570

  12. #12
    Boolit Master Four Fingers of Death's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    6,579
    Cool Bananas!
    "I'll help you down the trail and proud to!" Rooster Cogburn.

    "Slap some bacon on a biscuit and let's go! We're burnin' daylight! " - Will Anderson (John Wayne) "The Cowboys."

    SASS Life Member No 82047

    http://s89.photobucket.com/albums/k228/4fingermick/

    Psycholigist to Sniper; 'What did you feel when you shot the felon Sargeant?'
    Sniper to Psycholigist; 'Recoil Ma'am.'

    From my Irish Ancestors: "You've got to do your own growing, no matter how tall your grandfather was."

  13. #13
    Boolit Man
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Holland,Netherlands
    Posts
    76
    Like Candle making, it's easier to get those out of the moulds when they have spent some time in the freezer.

    Hans.

    BTW gonna copy those too.

  14. #14
    Boolit Master Whistler's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sweden
    Posts
    520
    Neat setup, though a bit advanced for me. I just use old toilet paper rolls that I cut open, roll a bit thighter and secure with rubber bands. In the bottom I place stoppers from Vitamin tubes and then put a wooden dowel into it when I've poured the lube. Works great so far and the toilet paper rolls can be used many times.


    Shoot from a rest at 25/50/100 yards, then post your groupings. That is the only way to compare accuracy results.

  15. #15
    Boolit Master Four Fingers of Death's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    6,579
    Darstardly Dan, who is a cowboy shooter and supplier of Big Lube moulds (huge grease grooved boolit moulds for black powder shooting) also supplies 'Pearl Lube' which is his version of lube. Point is, he uses coin papers rolled into a mould so that it holds the tube-a-loob together. Another take on it.

    The more I think about it, the more I like the idea of just melting the lube straight into the lubesizer.
    "I'll help you down the trail and proud to!" Rooster Cogburn.

    "Slap some bacon on a biscuit and let's go! We're burnin' daylight! " - Will Anderson (John Wayne) "The Cowboys."

    SASS Life Member No 82047

    http://s89.photobucket.com/albums/k228/4fingermick/

    Psycholigist to Sniper; 'What did you feel when you shot the felon Sargeant?'
    Sniper to Psycholigist; 'Recoil Ma'am.'

    From my Irish Ancestors: "You've got to do your own growing, no matter how tall your grandfather was."

  16. #16
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Deary, Ideeeeeeho
    Posts
    2,245
    GOOD thread!

    I picked up the parts to make a mold system, probably a couple years back, before I got into casting for and hunting with 45/70 boolits.

    Still have a can of lube that needs to be made into sticks!

    But, now have a supply of LBT soft blue, and some White Label Lube "BAC", already in the sticks. So---------------------

    However, the LBT seemed to give some fliers - need to do more tests with this boolit from Bruce's mold - haven't tested the BAC, and need to do some more testing of the sample of green lube Bruce sent me as well as one or two more.

    Which means, if I get into making one of the lubes like Bruce's or the other sample I have, I WILL NEED TO FINISH THE LUBE MOLD PROJECT!!!! --------

    ----------AS I HATE!!!!! to stop and melt lube to fill up my sizer/luber! Just hate the process when compared to opening up and sticking in a already made stick of lube.

    Keep em coming!

    Crusty Deary Ol'Coot

  17. #17
    Boolit Master



    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Southwestern Ohio
    Posts
    8,104
    Crusty Dreary Ol'Coot;
    I have been using Lars White Label Carnauba Red for several years with complete satisfaction.

    However, I keep a dedicated separate Lyman lube/sizer filled with modified Emmert's lube for use with black powder (I shoot black powder in my Bisley Vaquero .45 Colt). I melt my lube in a coffee cup warmer (an inexpensive cup warmer for the office). I always have a cup full of lube sitting on the warmer when I start to lube (when I finish lube/sizing I immediately refill the luber). At any rate, by the time I am ready to re-fill my lube/sizer the cup warmer has slowly brought the lube up to melt temperature.

    The beauty of the little cup warmer is that it never gets too hot for the lube. It just brings it up to temp (melted) and holds it there. You can leave it on all day without over heating the lube.

    No waiting, no fuss. When the luber runs out, just "pop the top" and pour the lube in. You can do continuous work by just ensuring that both the luber and the lube cup are full at all times.

    If you can find an old pyrex measuring cup or, even better, an aluminum measuring cup, either will work perfectly.

    FWIW
    Dale53

  18. #18
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Deary, Ideeeeeeho
    Posts
    2,245
    Thanks for the info Dale,

    One thing that for me slows down testing of lubes and is frankly a pain, is changing from one lube to another.

    As per Bruce's BABore - recommendation, I had "Buckshot"make me some sizers for my 465/.462 mold from Bruce.

    The push through - Lee style - sizer is slightly larger then the die for the luber sizer, so guess I could size my boolits in the push through die and then melt a stick of the different lubes and pour it around the boolits then use a cutter of some kind to get the lubed boolits out of the lube for testing.

    Not sure if that would be better then melting lube out of the sizer for testing of another lube or not. ?????????

    Keep em coming!

    Crusty Deary Ol'Coot

  19. #19
    Love Life
    Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Four Fingers of Death View Post
    Darstardly Dan, who is a cowboy shooter and supplier of Big Lube moulds (huge grease grooved boolit moulds for black powder shooting) also supplies 'Pearl Lube' which is his version of lube. Point is, he uses coin papers rolled into a mould so that it holds the tube-a-loob together. Another take on it.

    The more I think about it, the more I like the idea of just melting the lube straight into the lubesizer.
    What he said.

  20. #20
    Boolit Bub luis7's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    ANDALUCIA - ESPAŅA
    Posts
    47
    Thatīs mineīs
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DSCN1306.jpg 
Views:	417 
Size:	93.2 KB 
ID:	37799   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DSCN1307.jpg 
Views:	304 
Size:	97.5 KB 
ID:	37800  

Page 1 of 4 1234 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check