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Thread: Either a great idea or a waste of my good money...

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
    Elkins45's Avatar
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    Either a great idea or a waste of my good money...

    So I learned this weekend that a letter 'N' size drill measures about 0.302 inches. That's just about the perfect diameter for a smooth side paper patch boolit to shoot in .30 caliber rifles.

    So here's the plan: the next time I order reloading stuff I'm going to pick up a Lee 7mm rifle mold. Then I'm going to clamp the blocks together and drill the cavities almost to the nose with a N bit. Hopefully I can get a decent transition at the nose with the existing cavity. Then I'll cast some up, patch them and let 'em fly!

    That's the plan anyway...a poor man's PP .30 cal boolit. Anybody like this idea better than just casting .309's and squeezing them unmercifully after they have been patched?

    Comments welcome!

  2. #2
    Moderator Emeritus / Trusted loob groove dealer

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    It being hard to drill a nice, clean hole, I believe I would go down in either number, or letter drills a few thousandths, and polish the final few thousandths. Practice on some scrap metal, before trashing a mold.
    The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
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  3. #3
    Boolit Grand Master

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    +1 for what waksupi says.

    The route I took was to buy an N reamer, drill undersize just as waksupi said then ream to final size with the N reamer.

    I used a simple pushout mould design rather than split blocks but the size is good. Lyman recommended 0.301" for their PP boolits but 0.001" is nothing to worry about, just choose paper accordingly.

    Longbow

  4. #4
    Boolit Grand Master

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    I also agree. I am no machinest but have done sme minor work. The Lee moulds are very soft aluminum. You also might want to see if someone here has a trashed mould you can use.
    Aim small, miss small!

  5. #5
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    I read of someone using a D reamer to make a .35 cal PP boolit, that sounds easier to me than trying to drill a perfectly round hole.


    Robert

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by longbow View Post
    +1 for what waksupi says.

    The route I took was to buy an N reamer, drill undersize just as waksupi said then ream to final size with the N reamer.

    I used a simple pushout mould design rather than split blocks but the size is good. Lyman recommended 0.301" for their PP boolits but 0.001" is nothing to worry about, just choose paper accordingly.

    Longbow
    Any suggestions where a fellow should buy an N reamer? I have an N bit but I don't have any reamers.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
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    you must have espn , cause i was thinkin' the very same thing,but for 8mm. i'm going to use a crapped out .30 mould i have. if you take you'r time cut slow and use cuttin' oil you'll be ok.

  8. #8
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    Here's a "N" reamer for about $15.

    http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT...MT4NO=84450355

    Here's one on eBay at about $15 shipped: http://cgi.ebay.com/Letter-N-Carbide...item27abb629d1

    John

  9. #9
    Boolit Master

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    Elkins45
    PM sent

    Carl

  10. #10
    Boolit Grand Master

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    I can't remember where I bought my N reamer other than in Canada. I was living in Kemano in Northern coastal BC just below the Alaska panhandle at the time so I must have ordered it or maybe the Alcan warehouse brought it in for me. We couldn't get out to shop much.

    Nowadays, I just make a D bit the proper size from a grade 8 bolt or medium to high carbon steel. Mazda MPV headbolts work great and it is the best use they have been to me (a whole other story but I won't buy a Mazda again!). I even made the mistake once of using to low a carbon steel and could not get the hardness so case hardened and that worked fine too.

    I use these to make mild steel and bronze moulds and they work just fine so there would be no problem with aluminum.

    Longbow

  11. #11
    Boolit Master Slow Elk 45/70's Avatar
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    OK if you are aperson with a lot of machinist knowledge, and a drill press and lathe, have fun what ever you do...m
    Slow Elk 45/70

    Praise the Lord & Pass the Ammo

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by waksupi View Post
    It being hard to drill a nice, clean hole, I believe I would go down in either number, or letter drills a few thousandths, and polish the final few thousandths. Practice on some scrap metal, before trashing a mold.
    ++!.
    Drill bits made to the NAS 907 standard typically measure .001 to .0025 below there stated size. The finished hole, assuming a proper set-up, has a +.005 / -.001 tolerance, depending on material. Aluminum's harder to hold tolerance on than, say 4130 steel. Reamers hold a tolerance half that, maybe more, depending on the reamer quality, set-up, lubricant used, etc.

  13. #13
    Boolit Master KYCaster's Avatar
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    Here's a place in Louisville that probably has what you want......

    http://www.higginsindustrial.com/index.html


    Good luck

    Jerry

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check