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Thread: The mold I about gave up on

  1. #1
    Boolit Master Nate1778's Avatar
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    The mold I about gave up on

    I have a Lee 2 cavity mold for my 9mm, it is the TC TL design and the bullet works very well in my gun. I have had a hard time with this particular mold and was giving up pretty quick on it and was thinking about getting the 6 cav version anyway. Today I was casting and literally having to beat the bullets out of the mold. I tried smoking it, I tried running it hotter. After about 100 frustrating bullets I decided it was time, I had nothing to loose.

    I stuck the mold in the bucket of water and broke out the tools. Remembering a thread I read in this forum a while back, I took some bullets to the drill press and drilled a small hole in the back of the bullet. Took a drywall screw and ground the head off of it so I could chuck it in a drill. Got the valve lapping compound, squirted some in a cavity and put the bullet in, closed the mold and ran the screw into the back of the bullet. Much to my disbelief the bullet started to spin. I ran 3 bullets like this through each cavity.

    Cleaned the cavities real quick with some Hopps #9 and a tooth brush and finally some mineral spirits. Started casting again and this time the bullets jumped out of the mold into the water. I was in such disbelief that this worked as well as it did. No smoking, no running the temps up, just pure casting fun. I must of cast 400 more boolits just cause it was so easy. I think I have given up on the 6 cav for now that's how much better this thing throws bullets. It now drops bullets better than any mold I have.

    If you have a mold that is giving you fits try this out, I would have to say this is the best trick I have learned casting and from this forum. Can't even remember whom brought it up but THANK YOU for doing so, it is an awesome trick.
    "And finally, the Baby Bear looked and he said, "Somebody's sleeping in my bed, and the bastard's still there!" But Goldylocks had a Remington semi-automatic, with a scope and a hair-trigger!"

  2. #2
    Boolit Master Rockchucker's Avatar
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    Lapping a mould sure works for me, although I pour my lead thru a nut sitting on the blocks and using a socket attached to a drill it's the same principle and it works great. Glad it's working for you.
    NRA Life Member

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
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    When you have poured the lead thru the nut and spin it, does the nut get into the surface of the mold?

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
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    You put your hot mold in water when you are done? I was told to let them slowly cool down or they could warp.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master Nate1778's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimmeyjack View Post
    You put your hot mold in water when you are done? I was told to let them slowly cool down or they could warp.
    I did that time cause I was DONE. I wanted to work on it pretty quick so I did not want to wait for it to cool the "right" way.
    "And finally, the Baby Bear looked and he said, "Somebody's sleeping in my bed, and the bastard's still there!" But Goldylocks had a Remington semi-automatic, with a scope and a hair-trigger!"

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nate1778 View Post
    I did that time cause I was DONE. I wanted to work on it pretty quick so I did not want to wait for it to cool the "right" way.
    Ah, I got ya. I wasn't reading it right.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master twotrees's Avatar
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    Tell Me how, nut on the block

    Maybe it's the "Nut" behind the blocks (ME) that is the problem But when I tied that the nut floated up with the sprue.

    Just like the clips do when smelting, steel floats on hot lead.

    HOW do you get the nut to stay there untill the melt fills the hole, holds the nut, and cools???

    Thanks Ahead of time,
    TwoTrees

    "Hold my beer and watch this!!"

  8. #8
    Boolit Master
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    Nate 1778 :

    Here is your process in picture form, if you'd like to see it :

    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=47669

  9. #9
    Boolit Master Nate1778's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ben View Post
    Nate 1778 :

    Here is your process in picture form, if you'd like to see it :

    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=47669



    Yep, that about sums it up for me. I am going to do this to my 6 cav tonight I use for .38/.357.
    "And finally, the Baby Bear looked and he said, "Somebody's sleeping in my bed, and the bastard's still there!" But Goldylocks had a Remington semi-automatic, with a scope and a hair-trigger!"

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
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    Go slow, don't get in a hurry. Let us know how it works out.

    I will usually use 2 or 3 bullets from the mold cav. that the bullets came out of during the " Lee - Lementing Process ".

    After about 20 seconds turning with a slow speed drill , it is time to change the bullet and use another bullet. The lead bullet will reduce itself in size way ahead of the mold.

    Ben

  11. #11
    Boolit Master
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    Why not just use this technique with any new mold and avoid hassles before they arrive? If the size is increased slightly the sizing die is going to take care of that problem.

  12. #12
    Boolit Master
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    True !

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check