'Paper Patch Chamber'??

[Lead pot]

There is nothing more fun than shooting a black powder rifle with a long tapered throat with out using a blow tube or wiping stick by just open the breach extracting the case drop in a new round close the breach and shoot again and again busting rocks or bowling pins
With the tapered chamber you can do this using a GG or patched bullet at groove diameter or under and get very good results.
I have a old Pedersoli Quigley rifle I re cut the throat and I have a great time using the barrel sights and doing just this out to 800 yards.


Kurt

[montana_charlie]

I have a old Pedersoli Quigley rifle I re cut the throat and I have a great time using the barrel sights and doing just this out to 800 yards.

Exactly how much of the throat did you modify?
Is it still capable of it's original accuracy level...when you aren't just having fun?
CM

[Lead pot]

It was a .45-70 to start and I put my 5 degree throating reamer in and turned it out to a .45/2.4

[montana_charlie]

Will that reamer work on a chamber you don't want to deepen...just trim down the 'step'?
Or to put that another way, do you have a drawing of that reamer?
CM

[Lead pot]

Yes it will do this But you should have the reamer made to the specs of the chamber and bore of your rifle.
I made a chamber cast and sent it with my numbers I wanted.
I had the reamer made for the Shiloh and had two different pilots made up for the pedersoli.
The Pedersoli chamber is a little larger than the Shiloh but it worked out good as is. I cant see the original ring that came out when I deepened the chamber from 2.1 to 2.4.

Kurt

[montana_charlie]

The Pedersoli chamber is a little larger than the Shiloh but it worked out good as is.

I don't know how to interpret what you mean by 'is a little larger'.
Was the chamber larger before you started cutting...or did it end up being larger?

And the term 'larger', itself...is that 'deeper', or bigger in diameter, or something else?

I have another question (or two), but I'll keep this simple...
CM

[Lead pot]

CM

the chamber cast of the Shiloh measured .4807 at the case mouth the free bore diameter was .4583 at the start of the lead.
The pedersoli had a case mouth diameter of .4832 and the free bore diameter was .4612

[montana_charlie]

Ah! That tells me a lot, actually.
And...you say a single reamer worked for both chambers by using the correct pilot for the Pedersoli bore.

My next question...
Being that it is made for deepening a chamber, that reamer had to cut a brand new leade into the rifling. (I'm not talking about the 5 degree 'chamber transition step' here...I mean the tapered ends of the lands which shoehorn the bullet into the rifled bore.)

What is the angle of that new leade...or does the 5 degree zone which eliminates the 'step' just cut straight into the lands?

CM

[Lead pot]

5° to a 2°-30'

Kurt

[montana_charlie]

So, a 2.5 degree leade. I think that angle and a .05" freebore comprises the standard Shiloh throat.

Last question...
What is the length of the 5 degree taper, and can you confirm it's diameter goes from ~.480" to ~.458"?

CM

[Lead pot]

Shiloh has no free bore just the compound lead of 45 degrees into the 2-1/2 degree lead.

The 5° is .128"

"and can you confirm it's diameter goes from ~.480" to ~.458"?"

I could, but I haven't made a chamber cast after I cut it to measure it, and I did not check out the reamer because it has a odd number of flutes.

Kurt

[Lead pot]

Cm.

A word of caution.

From your questions it makes me think that you are thinking about changing the throat in your rifle.

You can screw up a chamber running a throating reamer in the existing chamber by having the throater misaligned if you dont use the proper precautions when you use this reamer with a T handle. You want to remember that the case has a taper and the chamber side walls will not support the reamer shank till the cut is complete. Just the pilot is not enough to keep the reamer centered, you also need a bushing on the stem of the reamer with a proper fit in the rim recess to keep it aligned or you might cut an off center throat and that will throw a monkey wrench in the works and you will be looking for a new barrel.
It is best to use a lathe and indicate the setup to do it right.

Kurt

[montana_charlie]

Thanks for the answers, Kurt.
I am aware of the need to ensure concentricity. My current concern is how to gage, and limit, depth of cut to .09 in.
That would shave away the 'step' without touching any other steel within my particular throat.

CM