Methodology of Breaking in a new rifle?

[Crash_Corrigan]

I will be getting my hands a new CZ 527 .223 Rem Rifle in about a week. I have never bought a new rifle. I believe that there are some do's and don't about breaking in a new barrel. Something about fire it once and then clean it. For about 10 times or so. Then fire it 5 shots, cool down, again 5 then clean again. Anybody got some solid info on this or where I can find it?

Thanks, Dan Corrigan

[Bass Ackward]

Dan,

Whole lotta barrel information or links can be found here.

http://www.6mmbr.com/barrels.html

[Bigscot]

Dan,

The last 2 rifles I got I broke in as you state. Shoot one and clean for 5 cycles. Each time you clean you will notice the cleaning getting easier. I then would fire 3 and clean for several cycles. The amount of firing and cleaning depended on gun and time.
The first rifle I did this on was a Savage .17 HMR. That is the most accurate and easiest gun to clean I have. The other gun was a Win Legacy in .44 mag. I used condoms for the brake in and have only put lead in it since. It is pretty accurate. The last time I was at the range I shot a 3/4", 3 hole 5 shot group @ 25 m with a 250 gr RCBS K boolit with factory iron sights. I have been able to get any leading out with just patches and Ed's Red. Hope it helps.

Bigscot

[Bigscot]

Dan,

Here is another link form Lilja rifles. I think if you use some form of the shoot and clean method you will be ok.
http://www.riflebarrels.com/support/...aintenance.htm

Bigscot

PS. I like and use the Butches Bore Shine with jacketed.

[eldeguello]

I will be getting my hands a new CZ 527 .223 Rem Rifle in about a week. I have never bought a new rifle. I believe that there are some do's and don't about breaking in a new barrel. Something about fire it once and then clean it. For about 10 times or so. Then fire it 5 shots, cool down, again 5 then clean again. Anybody got some solid info on this or where I can find it?

Thanks, Dan Corrigan

While it might make a difference when starting to shoot a new BENCHREST rifle, this "breaking in" stuff is basically a waste of time with a hunting gun. I have a relatively new (under 50 rounds thru it) CZ 527 in 7.62X39mm, and it shoots like this with .308" Sierra bullets. No breaking in, no nuthin"!



Here's five shots from a Douglas Premium Grade in 6mmX284.



Again, none of this break-in nonsense. Unless your bore is real rough (poor quality barrel), break-in is a waste of cleaning supplies, elbow grease, ammo, and time. If your barrel IS really rough, pay a good gunsmith to lap it smooth correctly!

[waksupi]

Eldeguello has it right. If it is shooting well, why do it? Most barrels I see , will shoot moa the first time out, assuming the bedding is good.

[trooperdan]

I thought since we are planning to shoot lead boolits it was a good idea to run some condums down the tube to smooth out the rough edges in preparation for cast? Or use one of the fire lapping kits that are available. And anyway, in the coolness of fall weather (not now of course) it is kinda a zen experience at the range, enjoying the solitude (private range!), getting aquainted with a new rifle... kinda like being on a first date again!

[eldeguello]

I thought since we are planning to shoot lead boolits it was a good idea to run some condums down the tube to smooth out the rough edges in preparation for cast? Or use one of the fire lapping kits that are available. And anyway, in the coolness of fall weather (not now of course) it is kinda a zen experience at the range, enjoying the solitude (private range!), getting aquainted with a new rifle... kinda like being on a first date again!

I would not trust myself with one of those firelapping kits! I'd ruin my barrel for sure. But there is no doubt that when it comes to shooting cast bullets, it is imperative to get all the copper-wash type fouling OUT of the bore before shooting soft projectiles.

I recall the words of old Harry Pope that bear on this question.



HARRY POPE, ET AL, AT THE WALNUT HILL RANGE

Harry stated that "more barrels are ruined with a cleaning rod than any other way". As perhaps history's greatest maker of lead-bullet target barrels, I'm sure he knew what he was talking about.

[Bass Ackward]

I would not trust myself with one of those firelapping kits! I'd ruin my barrel for sure. But there is no doubt that when it comes to shooting cast bullets, it is imperative to get all the copper-wash type fouling OUT of the bore before shooting soft projectiles.

I recall the words of old Harry Pope that bear on this question.



HARRY POPE, ET AL, AT THE WALNUT HILL RANGE

Harry stated that "more barrels are ruined with a cleaning rod than any other way". As perhaps history's greatest maker of lead-bullet target barrels, I'm sure he knew what he was talking about.

Elde,

Harry Pope used cut rifled barrels. 99% of todays barrels are button rifled. I am a believer in breakin because I scope everything before hand and I see the before and after results.

You need to go here.

http://www.6mmbr.com/barrels.html

Then click on the "Factory vs Custom barrel" video.

What you will find out is that the exact opposite is true. The target rifle is way ahead in quality. Besides break in is for burnishing which has been recognized for hundreds of years even by Harry.

[Bigscot]

The last 2 guns I got new have been easier to clean if nothing else. I have a Win 30.06 that I did not break in and it is a bear to clean. It shoots well and have no way of knowing if breaking in would have made any difference either way. But with the last 2 guns I am sold on a break in procedure. It won't hurt anything and will give you the chance to get used to the gun and trigger so when you are ready to try for groups you will be familiar with your gun. Just my .02.

Bigscot

[versifier]

I give new rifles at least 100 rounds of jacketed loads, then I give them a thorough cleaning. Occasionally used guns have seen so little actual shooting that after the initial cleaning to really see the state of the bore they need the "copper burnishing" treatment, too, then another thorough cleaning. How well broken in the action of a used gun is (ease of working the bolt or lever) can be a good indication of how necessary further breakin may be. The working of the new action in the course of that firing helps to break it in, too, smoothing it out. You also get a chance to get used to the trigger, and to find out about any potential mechanical or accuracy problems that might need attention. Several times I have changed my mind about whether the gun in question needs a trigger job as it also smoothed out in use, but not always. If it is still gritty or creepy after 100rds, a little bit of polishing may be in order. I keep checking the tightness of the action screws during the breakin, which on some rifles like to work loose and Locktite them if needed. Bedding issues and floating or forend pressure gets evaluated after breakin, too, as I like to see how recoil settles the action into the stock first.

[ruger4570]

I think the break in procedure is a little overwhelming at best. I do in fact try to break in a barrel and not abuse it. My method is to clean the bore well, fire 2 shots, clean it fire 2 more, clean it and fire 5 more, clean it again then do 20 rounds or so, and clean again. If a barrel is a good one, all you can hope to do is wipe off the sharp edges and burrs. I don't think any barrel break in with copper bullets will make al that much difference with a steel barrel,, as noted.. other than to knock off burrs and some rough edges. I could be wrong, but so far this has worked for me and other opinions are certainly important. I personally think a barrel will shoot well if it was made well and all the break in the world will not necessarily make a super shooter out of a log.

[PatMarlin]

Old thread but here's how I do my Barrel Breakin:

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...Barrel+Breakin


Here is why I do it this way, and the results:

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=8428


Works every tine for me..

[Bucks Owin]

I'm in the "disbeliever/hocus pocus" camp I guess. I can't see that a certain number of J-boolits or "special" cleaning regimens do much to "season" a new barrel...(Although I guess if I spent what a new Shilen, Douglas, etc. cost, I'd certainly follow their recommendations!) The BR guys all have a special "ceremony" for virgin barrel steel....(I think it involves sacrificing of the old barrel to the Gods of Accuracy or some such...)

I'd say keep it clean and DON'T OVERHEAT IT. Barrels WILL erode faster when they get smokin' hot...(like when you put round after round of fast J-boolits through a lightweight barrel in 110 degree heat shooting varmints!) One could ruin the gilt edge of accuracy in a varmint/BR rig in one day with enough heat I'll bet...

I'd think running a patch through after every group while you sight in, and letting the barrel cool for a spell while you check targets would be more than 99% of the "normal" shooters do.....(and has always worked for me...)

Then again, we ain't all "normal" around here!

Dennis

[Bass Ackward]

Just finished fire lapping my second Redhawk using one of those Tubbs kits which has the aluminum oxide abrasive. Those Tubbs kits do beautiful work, but won't completely remove all tool marks in a Ruger. (surprise!) But I guess that it doesn't have to really as long as it removes dimensional abnormalities.

I first tried these kits on my Uncle's 7X57AI with a Dougleass air guaged barrel. This was a 5# rifle that has had three barrels on it and was a 4" grouper after just three shots. He is one of these barrel break-in / fire lap skeptics and was going to sell the gun he was so disappointed.

I asked him if I could have a wack at it since I wanted to try one of these Tubbs kits and now this thing is a 3/4" performer with the first 2 loads Quickload predicted up to 20 shots without cleaning. From a 5# rifle! One with a 130 grain Speer and the second with a 150 grain Sierra. Usually you don't see dramatic improvement like this, but it does happen. Slugging proved that no enlargement of the throat area ocurred at all diameter wise with this system although the angle of the leade was reduced to a gentle angle as the tool marks were removed. I can vouch for this idiot proof method for those that fear abrasives. It's load and shoot. Just follow the directions.

[PatMarlin]

I can vouch for this idiot proof method...

.......


...

[Bucks Owin]

Those Tubbs kits do beautiful work, but won't completely remove all tool marks in a Ruger. (surprise!)

46 years worth of powder burnin' and several hours worth of scrubbing with JB bore paste haven't removed the tool marks in my ol' Flattop....

Just smoothed 'em a might...

Dennis


(Although the tool marks don't seem to affect accuracy much, it groups just fine!)

[Bucks Owin]

Here's five shots from a Douglas Premium Grade in 6mmX284.

OOOOOH!!!

You have a 6mm/.284?!?

That cartridge is very near the top of my wish list! I have a "very experienced" old M-70 Featherweight .243 that's showing some erosion after 45 yrs of varminting. (!) I'd like to give it a new lease on life "one of these days" with a lonnnngg Shilen or Douglas heavy barrel.

What action did you build your's on and how long is the barrel?

Nice results BTW!

Dennis