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Thread: Lost your toe? Make a new one!

  1. #21
    Boolit Mold
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    I've been there Patrick. Don't count your chickens before they hatch. If it disappears out of the estate, even with it -and your name- written in the will, and you go looking for it, and then get informed he "gave it away" to someone else on his death bed you just got screwed. That's what I learned about wills. Of course this Belgian Auto 5 20 gauge won't be discovered to have a price tag deemed by others to be worth the effort so you will most likely get what your friend does will to you, but this is experience talkin' here.

    Nice stock repair! This technique would be good for all sorts of wood repairs, not limited only to stocks.

  2. #22
    Boolit Man Lavid2002's Avatar
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    I have a ithica 37, on the *top* of the stock, the highest, foremost part of the stock. Right where the wood meets the receiver, the wood has chipped off. I was thinking I would do the same thing you did, but I have a couple questions
    *When you drilled the holes, why not insert wooden dowels in those holes? Wouldn't it make it stronger?

    *What kind of wood should I use? The same wood you used?


    Thanks!

    -Dave

  3. #23
    Boolit Buddy Gunfreak25's Avatar
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    Dave, this is a common break on shotguns because the tang is high stress area. First see if it's birchwood or walnut your buttstock is made of. If you post a pic I can tell you which it is.

    The holes I drilled weren't even necessary really. When I make repairs, I am sure that the area being repaired will end up stronger than it was before it broke. If I were to take this stock now and slam it on the ground repeatedly as hard as I could, the toe would surely break, but further up and not where I made my repair.
    Devcon is a very strong resin (as is acraglas) and with this much surface area having been covered with the resin, the repair will last well into my grandchildren dying day's.

    Since your dealing with a high stress area on your shotgun, once you have the new top piece glassed on and filed down flush, I would drill a couple 1 inch deep holes into the seam of the repair starting from the front of the buttstock where it mates with the receiver. Get yourself some bamboo skewers and wrap them in some fiberglass cloth, fill your holes with resin and then insert your fiberglassed dowels. Once cured, file flush with the face of the buttstock. This will give the receiver something rock hard to butt against during recoil. Also, when you drill your holes be sure to drill them at an downwards angle into the buttstock. This will ensure that your repair never gets knocked off from the excessive recoil of the shotgun.
    "The tree of liberty must be refreshed from time to time, with the blood of patriots and tyrants. It is its natural manure." -Thomas Jefferson

  4. #24
    Boolit Man Lavid2002's Avatar
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    Heres the stock



    I appreciate the help : D

  5. #25
    Boolit Buddy Gunfreak25's Avatar
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    Okay, I thought from your description that it was chipped and there was a missing chunk of wood. This is a clean break and can be easily repaired. If you'd like i'd be happy to do the repair for you at a cheap price, it's a pretty simple repair. The trickiest part is repairing it without getting any resin in the checkering.

    Step 1. Clean both areas to receive resin with denatured alcohol.
    Step 2. With the broken piece in place on the stock (as it is now) carefuly apply some paste wax to the checkering if your stock as well as the surrounding area, try not to get any in the crack. The paste wax will keep the resin from adhering to the checkering, so you can go back later and just chip off the cured resin with your thumbnail or a toothpick.
    3.Now that the checkering is waxed and you are ready to glass you two pieces together, mix up some resin and apply it to both broken pieces.
    4.To get a clean bond you will need to clamp the pieces together, however this is a tricky area due to the curvature of the tang. Instead, you will wrap some wax paper around the entire repair, then take some nylon string and wrap it around the area as tight as you can. The string will clamp down the repair for you, and the wax paper beneath the string will keep the string from sticking together.
    5. Once cured for 24 hours, remove the string and wax paper. Now you may begin the process of cleaning up your repair. If you've applied your wax properly and enough of it, any run over of your resin can be easily removed with a toothpick or your thumbnail. For the face of the buttstock, you can file away the exess resin.
    6. If you removed any of the stocks varnish or stain you will want to hide this with some new stain and a light layer of varnish.
    7. Dowel the repaired piece from the front of the stock as I described earlier.

    That's pretty much it. If you don't feel up to the repair, just drop me a PM and I'd be happy to do it for you. I could have the stock back to you in a couple weeks (I work on many stocks all at once). -Tom
    "The tree of liberty must be refreshed from time to time, with the blood of patriots and tyrants. It is its natural manure." -Thomas Jefferson

  6. #26
    Boolit Man Lavid2002's Avatar
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    Sorry, forgot to explain

    When I made this *Repair* I used epoxy putty, it looks like garbage. I will have to separate the wood again, and when I strip the epoxy off the wood will come with it. How do you suggest I go about it like this?

  7. #27
    Boolit Buddy Gunfreak25's Avatar
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    Klean Strip Strip X in the gold can will remove glues, adhesives and other resins from wood. It's what I use to remove old glues from improperly repaired stocks. Crack that piece of wood back off, remove the glue, and use the steps I posted above to get a good solid looking repair on your buttstock.
    "The tree of liberty must be refreshed from time to time, with the blood of patriots and tyrants. It is its natural manure." -Thomas Jefferson

  8. #28
    Boolit Man Lavid2002's Avatar
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    thank you...ill keep you informed : )

  9. #29
    Boolit Master

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    If you're careful, that old Ithaca will turn out great. I repaired an old model 37 just like that (c.1943) for a friend, and it turned out great. I used 2-ton epoxy on it, and it was actually cracked worse than yours. If you look carefully you can still see the crack, but otherwise it looks really good.

    Gunfreak, very nice work on the Mosin stock! I've done a few things like that and it is fun to take something that looks like junk and make it look nice again. It definitely takes an eye for detail and a lot of patience. One of these days I should post photos of a couple projects, just for fun.
    Last edited by fatelk; 05-15-2010 at 09:33 PM.

  10. #30
    Boolit Buddy Gunfreak25's Avatar
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    Glad to be of help.
    "The tree of liberty must be refreshed from time to time, with the blood of patriots and tyrants. It is its natural manure." -Thomas Jefferson

  11. #31
    Boolit Buddy Gunfreak25's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by robin jack View Post
    Here you have a great work done and have a complete instruction to make a new and repair the damage toe..
    But I think we also need for all the relevant tools, then we can make this possible..
    Thanks for sharing this..
    And your a spam bot, mods would you be so kind to delete this member? Damn spammers are gettin crafty.
    "The tree of liberty must be refreshed from time to time, with the blood of patriots and tyrants. It is its natural manure." -Thomas Jefferson

  12. #32
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    Smoke4320's Avatar
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    That is a great repair .. many thanks for poting all the steps ..
    I broke off a toe once but since the wife said I had a lead foot I just poured me a new one

  13. #33
    Boolit Master Garyshome's Avatar
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    Nice Job. I have a cabinet door that is cracked think you might help me out?

  14. #34
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gunfreak25 View Post
    And your a spam bot, mods would you be so kind to delete this member? Damn spammers are gettin crafty.
    Are you sure he's a spammer?
    His other posts look legit.
    I see this sort of rambling post a lot from those who don't speak English and use translator programs.

    As for this stock repair. Great work.
    To get a true flat surface I glue 100 grit sand paper, the reddish brown type with a cloth backing, to a steel slab. I move the wood back and forth along the grain rather than moving the slab. Its easier to maintain the same angle that way.

  15. #35
    Moderator Emeritus / Trusted loob groove dealer

    waksupi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gunfreak25 View Post
    And your a spam bot, mods would you be so kind to delete this member? Damn spammers are gettin crafty.
    Got an eye on him.

    Update;

    Trey has successfully launched a nuclear strike on his **** hole Pakistani village, and he no longer exists.
    Last edited by waksupi; 10-05-2013 at 10:00 PM.
    The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
    John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"

    Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!


  16. #36
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Just an addition to this, I save all the broken stocks that I can get and then use these for donor's on toe repair as ususally I can find one with wood that matches the broken stock.

  17. #37
    Boolit Mold
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    Man that sure is nice looking. Good work!

  18. #38
    Boolit Grand Master Bazoo's Avatar
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    As a professional carpenter, I can say, excellent work sir.

  19. #39
    Boolit Grand Master







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    Super post! Good Job!
    1Shirt!
    "Common Sense Is An Uncommon Virtue" Ben Franklin

    "Ve got too soon old and too late smart" Pa.Dutch Saying

  20. #40
    Banned

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    "Repairing the repair"
    Tom, I think I can do this. I just might need a little babysitting as its my first time. Remington 1889 Side by Side Hammer Gun. Let me begin by saying that although I love this gun I am not concerned about protecting its collector value. In other words if I did have such a concern I would have bought a different gun. Eventually I would like to do some unorthodox things to this to bling it up a little. So with that understood here we go. This was obviously a well used tool back in the day. At some point the toe broke and he field repaired it and used the existing butt plate. I would like to repair and use the new butt plate so it will fit nicely. Please review the pics and let me know your thoughts. Thanks. -Russ

    Old Butt Plate
    Attachment 118773 Attachment 118774 Attachment 118775

    New Butt Plate
    Attachment 118776 Attachment 118777 Attachment 118778 Attachment 118779

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check