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Thread: Any one patch for the Mosin?

  1. #41
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by rhbrink View Post
    Alloy measures about 18 BHN . . . . booilt that . . . . weights 190 grains with 48 grains of H4350
    Ah! Now THERE's some useful information. Thanks! QuickLOAD callis this a 38 Kpsi load, so the Kpsi/BHN ratio (for figuring the range of "good fit" pressure range for a given PPCBoo core hardness) is 2.1.

    Well, I have seen this ratio go up to 3.0. So, now we have a range of 2.1 to 3.0 for the Kpsi/BHN ratio. Good thing to know!
    Zeek

  2. #42
    Boolit Master
    barrabruce's Avatar
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    I deburr my case mouths with a lee chamfer tool so there is a slight lead in and not a straight edge.
    About a whisker less than 1/2 neck thickness.

    I've had to size my case necks so far
    But open them up so the pp boolit can just be seated by hand.
    A firm sliding push fit.


    At first my initial patching was a bit soft/loose and they would either catch and tear the patch while seating....too tight a neck.

    Or the patch would ride up over the nose...not gripping the bullet ..paper too loose.

    Apparently after the first 1000 or so it gets easier..or so I'm told and you get more consistent.

    I have used cig papers. They seem to dry harder than note book.

    I am just starting to experiment with printer paper.
    Cos its thicker it is harder for me to size but they come out real hard.

    After I get the base in the case a firm twisting pushing action seat the pp bullet nicely.
    Not dramas at all.

    I patch to the orgave and then seat one in a spent shell. Load that in the chamber. close the action and the rifle seats it to length. If the bullet sticks either the neck tension is too loose ...or too tight for the bullet to move.

    Hope it helps

    I'm not an expert nor have obtained any wonderfull accuracy yet...but working on it.
    Only around 1.5 moa .
    Should be about 1.0 moa for my rifle

    I'm still plugging along and learning ..slowly......If I maybe breach seated them hard they may work better for me but I want to be able to extract them.
    Barra
    Last edited by barrabruce; 04-17-2010 at 09:52 AM.

  3. #43
    Boolit Grand Master 303Guy's Avatar
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    Mine are tight enough that they actually need seating in the press. Mine also require a slight belling of the mouth. I've reloaded one particular case several times without needing to resize the neck. That's just luck with the chamber size, neck thickness and brass springyness.

    One trick is to fully anneal the neck. That way, max neck tension isn't so high it 'sizes' the boolit. It's also easier to control the final neck size to 'just right'. Then with special dies, the amount of working of the neck is so small that the brass shouldn't need re-annealing for a long time.
    Rest In Peace My Son (01/06/1986 - 14/01/2014)

    ''Assume everything that moves is a human before identifying as otherwise''

  4. #44
    Boolit Master


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    I think that I will cast up some boolits that will be harder, don't see what that would hurt? As for neck tension I have to size the case down slightly for the boolit to be tight enough to be handled. I haven't opened the Lee .314 sizer die but will I think that a little larger would be better. As it is now I can easily slide a boolit into a fired case and then probably shake it out, much too loose. Don't think that the brass needs to be annealed but that is a good point and will watch for it. The method that I am using is to partially size the neck with a Redding S die which uses a bushing to size to what ever you would want. Right now the largest bushing that I have is .334 which is about right for .314 boolits. This S die is actually for a 30 BR but I have found that I can size about 1/2 the neck of the 7.62 X 54 by just running the case into the BR sizer, I cut a piece of PVC pipe that I slide over the case to prevent me from going too far. I then bell the case mouth ever so slightly with a 32 cal expander. I plan on starting another thread someday explaining how I do this if I can ever get this thing to shoot a boolit.

    Maybe after a 1000 or so it'll get easer? Looks like a loooong row to hoe!

    Richard
    MISSOURIANS for MOSINS

  5. #45
    Boolit Grand Master 303Guy's Avatar
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    Maybe after a 1000 or so it'll get easer? Looks like a loooong row to hoe!
    Actually, it will come a lot quicker than that. There do seem to be some basic 'rules' to follow but I haven't quite figured them yet.
    I would put rule number one as being; "Be prepared to have some 'fun'!"
    Rule # two - "Take it easy, take it slow."

    Hey, one great thing about paper patching is that we can enjoy a beer while doing the patching! We can't blow ourselves or our guns up!
    Rest In Peace My Son (01/06/1986 - 14/01/2014)

    ''Assume everything that moves is a human before identifying as otherwise''

  6. #46
    Boolit Master


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    Still no success, made it back to the range, different boolit, harder, opened push through die now get .3165 to .317. I can load the boolit in the case and hold with some tension enough to chamber and extract complete at least in a clean chamber, this is without resizing the case neck. I am picking up some lead, the boolits are tipping at 50 yds that is the ones that hit paper.
    I think that the patch is being burnt up in the barrel, no paper, only thing comming out of the barrel that I can tell is a lead boolit and hot gas there is the smell of burning paper in the air, had a wind blowing straight back at me today 12 o'clock 20 to 35 mph.
    I have been shooting starting loads for jacket bullets I'm thinking about dropping to a very mild load of 4895 maybe 4759? If I could shoot a 200 grain boolit at about 2000 fps it would do all that I want.
    Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

    Score
    Paperpatch Boolits 75 Success 0

    MISSOURIANS for MOSINS

  7. #47
    Boolit Grand Master 303Guy's Avatar
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    I think that the patch is being burnt up in the barrel, no paper, only thing comming out of the barrel that I can tell is a lead boolit and hot gas there is the smell of burning paper in the air, had a wind blowing straight back at me today 12 o'clock 20 to 35 mph.
    Burnt paper? Interesting! I have recovered patches (almost whole) that were heat scorched. That bit of info should be added to a sticky for reference!

    With one of my guns I had to develope a load that produced enough pressure to disintegrate the patch. I would think that means the boolit needed enough accelerating force to give it enough lateral pressure in the bore to break up the patch. In another gun, that same load was too much and the bore leaded but I did not get tumbling. That bore requires a lower powder charge to disintegrate the patch without leading. I also use a thicker paper in it. But I have noticed that lubing the patch makes a big difference! My lube is my regular case lube and is applied in the same way - by rolling the boolit on the lube pad. My lube of choice is STP. (Do not saturate the patch). Other folks use emulsion wax (wax car polish, wax case lube, etc) as a patch lube and it works for them. But then maybe their rifle's bores are not as bad as mine?
    Rest In Peace My Son (01/06/1986 - 14/01/2014)

    ''Assume everything that moves is a human before identifying as otherwise''

  8. #48
    Boolit Buddy Ekalb2000's Avatar
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    Well, I thought it was a counter bored brl. The end was completly smooth, no rifling for a couple inches. After looking at real hard and running a peice of bent wire down the muzzle, it did not hit any lip. I know this is probably real bad.
    I have a friend that sporterized a 91/30. He did a real good job of it. Put it in a nice synthetic stock. Cut a few inches off the brl. Mounted a decent scope, and now he has a good hunting rifle.
    Well, I really like steel and wood.
    I started with the wood first. I took all kinds of measurements. Tons of reading and research. 7.5 inches later. A chamfer and solder job.

    I kind of got blamed for "bubba'ing" this up on another site. Constructive critisizim I can handle. Im a crew chief, I got thick skin.
    As soon as the surplus ammo gets here, I will be able to give a range report. I hope it aint bad.
    Going to slug the brl this weekend. I hope its not to big.

  9. #49
    Boolit Master


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    Hey! That looks great to me but I'm no expert just getting started into these Mosins, from what I have seen thse guns are all over the place with modifications from the Russians, Finns, Germans and about everybody else in the 3rd world. If someone doesn't like tell them to take a hike. Just my .02 cents worth. Mine had already been bubba'ed, stock butchered, barrel chopped but still rusty in the end, all kinds of mixed matched parts. I cut off 4" of barrel and probably will cut another 2" but will try to get by now with as is. Mine shoots jacket stuff great 1.5" to 2" at 100 yards just trying to get a proper cast boolit is the problem so I'm working on the paper patch, no luck yet but I'm hard headed and determined to make this work somehow. Prepare yourself for a journey, may the force be with you and GOOD LUCK!

  10. #50
    Beekeeper
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    Looks great from the picture . I hope it shoots as good as it looks.
    Don't feel bad about taking flack on the other site, I was banned from there for having an opinion that differed from theirs. Horror of Horror I wanted to refinish a 91-30 stock with something other than red shellac. I even went so far as to question why they had the red shellac to start with.Caused a furror almost as bad as Arizona has right now.


    Jim

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check