Weight tolerance with cast bulets

[PacMan]

Just starting to cast and am currently casting .361 gc 180gr .357 mag.
Grabed about 30 bullets out of the box and weighed each. Except for 3 1-light ,2-heavy the other 27 were within i grain with most being within 1/2 grain.

I realize that most may not weigh much once you get an ideal what your mould and alloy is producing. But at what point will the diffrences start effecting accuracy?

Like i said i am new to this so any guidance is muchly appericated.

Best to all
Dwight

[jforwel]

I can't tell you by numbers or percentages but you can experiment. Load up ten that weigh the same and then take ten that are light, middle, and heavy and load them with the same load and compare on paper. Shoot from a rest or sand bags and see what happens.

I have never done it but have thought about it many times.

[runfiverun]

if you can shoot well enough to tell the diff of 5 grs at 50 yds then you need to weigh everything.
i have seen commercial 223 fmj's weigh a grain apart from the same lot.

[fredj338]

Larger bullets can have larger variarions in weight. If the bullet has a large deviation from the average, it likely has an internal void. I only weigh my 45-70 & 44mag hunting bullets. After all, accuracy out to 150yds is more importatn than accuracy @ 25yds. Any bullet that deviates more than 2-3gr from average gets tossed back.

[mastercast.com]

For what it is worth, I once read the 1% of total bullet weight was good for most applications. On a 400 grain .45 bullet, that is 4 grains.

For "Match Grade" maximum accuracy, make that 0.25 %. You are going to weigh a lot of bullets to do that.....a LOT of them! Is it worth it? I think so.

[armyrat1970]

Don't know what the tolarence would be but I can tell you this, I have never cast any boolits that didn't have differences by as much as 2 or 3 grs. +/- through a lot of 10. When I cast, I usually just pick out 10 boolits, weigh them, and go with the average weight. I have factory jacketed boolits for the 45ACP, .223, 357Mag and 30carbine and none of them are precise in weight, length or diameter. Have pulled milsurp for the 8MM that show the same results.
If I remember right, the most consistant factory boolits I have checked were the .224, 65gr. Spitzer Boat Tail Sierra GameKings.

[Shiloh]

For what it is worth, I once read the 1% of total bullet weight was good for most applications. On a 400 grain .45 bullet, that is 4 grains.

For "Match Grade" maximum accuracy, make that 0.25 %. You are going to weigh a lot of bullets to do that.....a LOT of them! Is it worth it? I think so.

It would be nice to have a firearm and the skill to sqeak the last nth degree of accuracy from a boolit. My .30 cal boolits are seperated into three lots. 1/2 % difference.

I'm probably going to the idea of if it has a nose and a good base, it gets loaded and fired.

Shiloh

[leadhead]

I shot handgun sillywet for 22 years and have never seen a difference
on bullets that ranged up to 10 grs difference out to 200 meters.
I used to weigh all my powder and bullets and finely decided it didn't
matter that much. I was international class in revolver, production, and
unlimited. Hope this helps,
Denny

[ScottJ]

On advice from my (massively OCD) brother I weigh every boolit I cast. Even bought a digital scale to make the task easier.

For every batch what I do is see what weight I get the most of and then bracket that with a .5gr window.

Probably overkill but since I'm new to the game I like the comfort checking them all gives me.

I might expand that because I've been working with Sierra 168gr Matchkings lately and started checking 10 at random whenever I load and they seem to be using a 1gr window.

[Crusty Deary Ol'Coot]

Was talking to a fellow who owned the best hunting/fishing store in the local area.

He has cleared out the business, sold the property and being retired has increased his time shooting steel sillywet w/black powder rifle.

He casts with a single cavity mold because of the desire for consistency on those far off hunks of steel, using a 30 to 1 ratio of lead to tin.

Hmmmmmmmmmmmmm. I understand where he is coming from, but on the LBT group buy 45/70 mold I just ordered, I did go with a 4 cavity mold.

Still have a single cavity RCBS mold on hand, but providing I can get the groups I want out to two hundred yards, I won't sweat the fact of the 4 cavity consistancy.

Time will tell!

Keep em coming!

Crusty Deary Ol'Coot

[RICKLANDES]

When prepping BPRC 45's I take a sheet of paper and turn it length-wise and write the following numbers on it. I know from past experience the weights range (that I accept) are 439, 440, 441, 442, 443, 444. I then weigh each casting on one of the small Hornady electronic scales. 441, 442 and 443 are by far the most common. Then I group each into a ziploc with a tag to size and lube. Too small gets a free trip back to the lead pot.

(I am keeping the extra heavy ones for a later experiment to see if the heavies are better shooters as the RB's casting always seem to be, but that is another issue.)

I load each size and keep them separated. These are shot as a group. The differences may be slight, but this is a factor that I can control. And for me even if it is just a physchological edge, it is still an edge toward a smaller group or a bit more confidence when dropping the hammer on a game animal. I figure I owe it to the animal to do the best I can.

I also load the bullet to the case and the case to the chmaber the same way to also increase consitency.

[ph4570]

When prepping BPRC 45's I take a sheet of paper and turn it length-wise and write the following numbers on it. I know from past experience the weights range (that I accept) are 439, 440, 441, 442, 443, 444. I then weigh each casting on one of the small Hornady electronic scales. 441, 442 and 443 are by far the most common. Then I group each into a ziploc with a tag to size and lube. Too small gets a free trip back to the lead pot.

(I am keeping the extra heavy ones for a later experiment to see if the heavies are better shooters as the RB's casting always seem to be, but that is another issue.)

I load each size and keep them separated. These are shot as a group. The differences may be slight, but this is a factor that I can control. And for me even if it is just a physchological edge, it is still an edge toward a smaller group or a bit more confidence when dropping the hammer on a game animal. I figure I owe it to the animal to do the best I can.

I also load the bullet to the case and the case to the chmaber the same way to also increase consitency.

That is what I do as well. I have been meaning to do an accuracy experiment with a mixed group but have not done so. The weigh and sort process with a digital scale does not take long for my casting batch sizes.

[44man]

I shot handgun sillywet for 22 years and have never seen a difference
on bullets that ranged up to 10 grs difference out to 200 meters.
I used to weigh all my powder and bullets and finely decided it didn't
matter that much. I was international class in revolver, production, and
unlimited. Hope this helps,
Denny

This I have to agree with!
I have gone out of my way to weigh revolver boolits to shoot smaller groups but never, not ever did they shoot as good as just grabbing a handful out of the box.
Now of course, with tiny little things it could be different but I quit weighing long ago. A glance to see if the boolits look good is enough for me.

[Leftoverdj]

Unless you are shooting competitively with a match rifle, you are not going to find a difference between weighed and as-they-come. With a 180 grain .357 bullet, it's most unlikely that you are doing that.

For any remotely normal shooting with an ordinary revolver or carbine, weighing those bullets is a waste of time. You've already done all the weighing you need to. You've established that you are getting reasonable consistant bullets somewhere close to the nominal weight.

[mastercast.com]

Folks,

If you choose not to weigh bullets, that is OK with me.

If you want maximum accuracy, weigh them.

It is all about consistency.

Those of us that win, weigh them.

[armyrat1970]

This I have to agree with!
I have gone out of my way to weigh revolver boolits to shoot smaller groups but never, not ever did they shoot as good as just grabbing a handful out of the box.
Now of course, with tiny little things it could be different but I quit weighing long ago. A glance to see if the boolits look good is enough for me.

Yeah. I totally agree. But I don't shoot to place 5 rounds into a dime size hole at 100yrds either. Some may. And if they do, they should weigh every boolit. Check every boolit for the same length and diameter all the way around. Check every case for the exact same weight, trim length, neck deminsions, neck tension. Wow. A lot to check there but as I said, I don't cast, or handload, for that extreme accuracy. But some do. And great if they achive it.

[WHITETAIL]

+1 with mastercast.

[44man]

Yeah. I totally agree. But I don't shoot to place 5 rounds into a dime size hole at 100yrds either. Some may. And if they do, they should weigh every boolit. Check every boolit for the same length and diameter all the way around. Check every case for the exact same weight, trim length, neck deminsions, neck tension. Wow. A lot to check there but as I said, I don't cast, or handload, for that extreme accuracy. But some do. And great if they achive it.

But I DO shoot for extreme revolver accuracy and most likely have shot the smallest groups ever shot with them, on the average. Can't do it all the time, can't see good enough any more.
However I do NOTHING to brass except trim when needed and I quit trying to weigh boolits. I am the laziest reloader you ever seen! Also the cheapest, still using some brass shot about 42 times for my .44.
Now a rifle or single shot bottle neck case does get initial treatment and I would weight little boolits for BR or varmints.
But I never found anything that makes a difference for the revolver except some basic things that just fall together with normal loading.
Same with a large bore like the 45-70, good casting technique is all that is needed so it would be a very cold day when I stick boolits on the scale.
Some things are critical but many things just do not matter so if you weigh every boolit and piece of brass, then do the primer pockets, etc, for revolvers, you are just making more work that you might enjoy doing but none will make the gun shoot tighter.
Brings back memories of my archery competition days. I would just stick an arrow on the string and the guy next to me would tell me my vanes were backwards, cock vane in. I would tell him "I know."
Then I shot a lot of shoots without gluing the nocks on, many fell off at the target. I would just twist them back on, didn't care where the vanes were. I would still take first place! I shot 292 out of 300 on the old Ohio field course like that using a hunting bow.
Some things don't matter!

[jimmeyjack]

Sometimes the chickens, pigs, turkeys and rams I shoot at fall from bullets that hit the edge of the steel. I,ll take that extra 1/4-1/2" sorting gives me.
If you are a good shot it does make an obvious difference doing the little stuff.

[44man]

Sometimes the chickens, pigs, turkeys and rams I shoot at fall from bullets that hit the edge of the steel. I,ll take that extra 1/4-1/2" sorting gives me.
If you are a good shot it does make an obvious difference doing the little stuff.

!00 yard .44 groups with my 330 gr boolit. The RD 265 does better.
Out of box, never weighed.