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Thread: annealing brass

  1. #21
    Boolit Mold roggom's Avatar
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    Was able to etch a timer board, have to wait to etch the heater board as I do not have the correct size blank. Now for the fun part, scrounging up parts. Most parts can be had at Mouser or Digikey, but the Inductor, IGBT (or MOSFET) relays and high speed diodes will have to be purchased from overseas for the best price. A little eBayin and I will be able to collect them. For those who will build one of these, keep an eye out for old computer power supplies or junked out computers at the thrift. The power supply may have the appropriate inductor and some other parts that can be harvested and used in this circuit.

    In all reality this project will probably run between $50 and $100. Depending on how many recycled parts can be found. Either way, something to build in your spare time.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails modlayout.jpg   timerboard.jpg  

  2. #22
    Boolit Grand Master


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    Still watching

  3. #23
    Boolit Mold roggom's Avatar
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    In process of collecting parts. May take a little bit as I have eBay'd many of them. Will post as I make progress.

  4. #24
    Boolit Mold roggom's Avatar
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    Ok got my parts in from digikey and finally populated and tested the timer board. This is a very important component as the heating must be controlled, the easiest is to control the amount of time. The timer will be powered by 15v dc power supply and will then control a high power relay. The circuit is an LM555 single shot lock in circuit. The unit can be operated with a momentary switch and will latch for a few milliseconds to a minutes. There is also an option to toggle and cycle, or have the unit on for say 1 second, and repeat every 3 seconds etc.

    The top potentiometer controls the pause and the lower controls the pulse. The diagram is finished and there is a layout of the components.

    Here is a link to learn how to etch boards at home. Once you do a few boards it becomes pretty easy, you can buy ferric chloride at Radio Shack, or use Hydrogen Peroxide and Muriatic acid (my preferred method)

    http://www.riccibitti.com/pcb/pcb.htm home etch
    http://joshuagalloway.com/pcb.html Muriatic acid way

    Quick Disclaimer, etching uses caustic and pretty nasty chemicals, just use caution and correct personal protective gear, and have fun.


    I have included the EAGLE file, you can go here and download the freeware http://www.cadsoft.de/,
    then print the traces and holes only to a glossy magazine page, Must be a laser printer, as the toner has to transfer to the magazine page then to the pcb. If you do not have a laser printer, print onto paper, then use a xerox machine to copy onto a magazine paper. I have found that journal magazines covers work the best.

    Will work on the main heater pcb next.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails delayDone.jpg   delaytop.jpg  
    Attached Files Attached Files
    Last edited by roggom; 04-08-2010 at 11:43 AM.

  5. #25
    Boolit Grand Master


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    Still watching and drooling.

  6. #26
    Boolit Master
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    I use a $25 spinner and a drill, can do over a hundred 45-110 cases an hour, Works well for me, I use a mild anneal just a hint of color and Air Cool, more consistant anneal for me. The loads have shot into the mid 250's in Creedmoor and well the results pretty much Speak for themselves.

    KW
    The Lunger

  7. #27
    Boolit Master bearcove's Avatar
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    KISS works fine for me

  8. #28
    Boolit Mold roggom's Avatar
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    As stated before, I use a couple of sockets and a propane torch as well, but the point of the project is to produce something that is completely different, yet economically achievable.
    This project will only make sense to a niche group of folks, and the satisfaction will come from building a working unit.

  9. #29
    Boolit Man
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    Watching with a lot on interest.

    Easy Ed

  10. #30
    Boolit Grand Master


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    Thanks Chief. Couldn't have said it any better. I have been a tinkerer for well over 60 years and see no reason to quit yet. When you quit learning it is time to close the lid.

  11. #31
    Boolit Master mtnman31's Avatar
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    Yes, this project has an appeal to me because I have been working in electronics for the past few years and know that it is a fairly simple set up. I also know that electronics is a market that sometimes has an insanely high mark-up for low sales volume/specialized products, even ones that are a simple design. This is one of those products. The product the guy uses in the video is 500+! If it can be home built for 50-100 bucks, I'd be all over it.

    Chief, hopefully this works out well and keep us posted. I already have a nice DC power supply that should be able to run this. Hopefully, I can scrounge up a few of the other parts and components from work.

  12. #32
    Boolit Mold roggom's Avatar
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    I have the main board about 90% populated. The only PIA parts to find are the fast acting diodes, rgpo2-20e and the main inductor. I found some diodes from MCM electronics for $1.50, but other than that they are sourced from Europe. I found a comparable inductor from eBay, it is rated at 100uH vs 200 uH, but according to all the reading, it should not matter. The rest of the parts I got from digikey. I am sure you can source the resistors and caps without an issue. Also if you are at the thrift, look at some old junk receivers to snag a nice heat sink.

    Lastly, I have a request for quote for the output transformer from fluxeon. Will see what he comes up with. The duty coil will be made with a few turns of #10 solid copper ground wire.

    Thanks

  13. #33
    Boolit Mold roggom's Avatar
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    Ok, finished the main board. I will post the board file as soon as I test it. It is a little slow process, but should have it up and running in a few weeks. Gotta get past the april 15 hump.

    Thanks
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails mainboarddone.jpg  

  14. #34
    Boolit Grand Master


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    B T T before it gets lost

  15. #35
    Boolit Master
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    A great video on Ammosmith.com on annealing

  16. #36
    Boolit Man
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    Senior Chief, I am IMPRESSED.

    I kinda feel like an idiot... out in a semi-darkened garage with a propane torch and a pan full of water.

    But what would you expent from a mustang brown shoe guy?

  17. #37
    Boolit Man
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    Bump to top

  18. #38
    Boolit Master
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    I'll just stick to lead dipping.
    Did about 100 in like 10 minutes.

    Heat up pure lead to about 750 and use non cleaned brass.
    Dip for 5 seconds and don't even worry about quenching.
    Cases should be de-capped because expanding trapped air will pop and fizzle the lead.
    Sent from my PC with a keyboard and camera on it with internet too.
    Melting Stuff is FUN!
    Shooting stuff is even funner

    L W Knight

  19. #39
    Boolit Master Garyshome's Avatar
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    Here is a 5~12V ZVS Induction Heating Power Supply Tesla Driver Board Module

    http://www.dx.com/p/5-12v-zvs-induct...2#.V-qb8sLruM8

  20. #40
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Not at that cost. Specs are severely lacking. No mention of the duty cycle. And the translation is horrible. Not sure if it's works for five minutes and then you let it cool. Or it takes five minutes to cool.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check