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Thread: 45ACP dies...

  1. #21
    Boolit Buddy BSkerj's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tn_river_ratt View Post
    get the fcd. It solved alot of my problems.

    Ratt
    ++++1
    You'll shoot your eye out kid !

  2. #22
    Boolit Buddy
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    Have not used mine in 9mm, .38 super, .357, .45 acp or .44 since I learned how to properly crimp on this site. As a + my leading has all but gone away.

  3. #23
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by MtGun44 View Post
    The FCD is a solution looking for a problem. Not needed for normal guns. I do not
    shoot Glocks, so maybe that is one of their many "advantages" that I don't appreciate.

    The primary problem with .45 ACP loading is failure to taper crimp, followed by too long
    a boolit seating length with the boolit engaging the rifling before the cartidge is fully
    seated. If you pull your barrel and set the boolit seating depth properly and then
    adjust the TC to push about half the thickness of the brass case mouth into the
    lead (by eyeball or maybe with a magnifier, this is not rocket science). Once they
    will drop into the chamber full depth with no more than about 1 lb of finger pressure,
    you are good to go.

    The FCD can oversize the loaded round, making the cast boolit, which is normally a
    bit larger than a jacketed boolit, smaller than it was originally. This can result in
    leading and inaccuracy.

    I say avoid the FCD. But then I have only loaded about 250,000+ rounds of
    .45 ACP over the last 30 years.

    Bill
    I agree with Bill and others. Personally, I see no need for the FCD at all, especially for .45 ACP. I've probably only loaded ~100,000 rounds of .45 since 1976, but I have never used a FCD on a single round. My ammo functions flawlessly in every .45 pistol I've ever tried it in, including a few box-stock M1911A1s that belonged to Uncle.

    My RCBS .45 ACP die set predates the Taper Crimp die; I had to buy that one separate and add it to the set. Same with the carbide sizer. I think the FCD is a band-aid for marginal reloading/die adjustment procedures, myself.

    Just MHO.
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  4. #24
    Boolit Buddy Bkid's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by markinalpine View Post
    Just don't overcrimp!
    Any crimp die can be set too agressively, and downsize your boolits. I did this with a RCBS die set for .45 Colt before I figured out I had it too tight. Since I was reloading dummy rounds to check thing out, I just had to take them apart and recycle the boolits, but I was surprised. I do use the Lee FCD for .45 AP, but this is for a 1911A1 that is up to spec, .45 barrel with .451 groove diameter, and the different lead pellets I've cast and size to .452 are still .452 after running thru the FCD.
    Mark
    I agree mine come out at .452 every time even with lead bullets.

    I really like the FCD especially on my 40 Cal bullets.
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  5. #25
    Boolit Master
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    No FCD is required for auto pistols if you correctly set your taper crimp dies. I use .001 per side. Having competed in IPSC for 25 yeas with 45 ACP, 38 Super, and 9mm, I fired up to 6000 rounds a year.

    Also seating depth of the boolit must be correct. IE, a FP requires a different SD than a RN or a SWC

    Over crimping is a prime cause of barrel leading by an under size boolit skiding down the barrel being too small to engage the rifeling.

    My 9mm Hi-Power would key hole at five feet with a .356 boolit and lead like a b---h! A .357 would clean the leading out and was extremly acurate.

  6. #26
    Boolit Buddy deerslayer's Avatar
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    After a pm conversation with a very experienced loader who I will not mention as i have not asked permission. This is the PM I recieved from him and this has helped me tremendously. Hope this helps you as much as it did me. This made the FCD an unneeded step for me.





    The point of making your own ammunition is to make it
    work for YOUR gun. So, the ammo has to fit the chamber
    and the throat. There are several potential issues. First,
    is the brass resized enough to fit the chamber. This is
    almost never an issue, so we'll pass it. The next issue is
    whether the boolit/bullet will hit the rifling before the
    case is seated in the chamber so that the base is flush
    with the hood (on a 1911) or whatever else of the
    barrel matches the location of the breech face with
    a fully closed slide. If the loaded cartridge will fully seat in
    the chamber of the dismounted barrel (being used as
    a gage) with no or at most a pound or two of force, then
    it should close properly during the feeding cycle.

    Start with a dummy round, seat the boolit out maybe
    1/8" too long and try this dummy round. Look for marks
    that indicate that the rifling (6 marks spaced around) or
    the whole throat (a solid mark all the way around) are
    hitting the full diam portion of the boolit/bullet. A jacketed
    bullet will show little shiny marks. Adjust the seating
    depth until the cartridge case is fully seated with no marks on the boolit. This is the correct MAX seating depth for your
    particular pistol. If you only have one, you are done
    with seating depth. If you need to satisfy many, you
    need to check against each one to see which has the
    shortest seating depth and then make your ammo to
    that std, as long as the others are happy too - and they
    will be as far as seating depth if you have checked, but
    maybe too short may cause feeding malfunctions in one
    or more. Probably not.

    The final issue is to add a taper crimp, preferably as
    a separate process. Set up enough TC so that the
    cartridge seats easily, after you have had the boolit
    seated deep enough, you may well still have a bit of
    resistance in the last 1/4 to 1/3 of chambering due to
    the case mouth hitting the walls of the chamber. I
    set my TC die to push about half the brass case mouth
    thickness into a lead boolit, visually. The loaded round
    drops all the way to fully seated in a clean chamber in
    most guns.

    These two things will cover the overwhelming majority
    of .45 ACP chambering (FTC) problems.

    Ignore seating depths provided by manufacturers
    EXCEPT as a guide to pressures. If a manufacture has
    a LOA of 1.275" with his bullet and you find it necessary
    to us a LOA of 1.255", then you will get higher pressures
    with your seating depth, so back off and expect to not
    get all the way to their max load, perhaps. Maybe if
    they say 5.5 gr of some powder is max, you may stay
    with 5.4 or 5.3 gr with a deeper seating depth. Reducing
    the combustion chamber by seating the bullet deeper into the case INCREASES the pressure.

    One other case where you may use seating depth from
    a manufacturer is when you are attempting to duplicate
    a factory round with the exact same bullet. Then seat
    to the same measured LOA as the factory round - taking advanatage
    of their experience with that round feeding in many
    guns. Not guaranteed, but likely to work.

    I don't think the FCD is at all necessary and it may
    over size the finished round, causing problems. I
    have never used one and we have had many people
    with problems from pistol FCDs. Note that RIFLE
    FCDs are totally different, unrelated in any way
    to the pistol FCD. Lee rifle FCDs are a great product.

    Good luck.
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  7. #27
    Boolit Buddy
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    It looks like I may have to go back and check my dies. I had all kinds of feeding trouble before I started using the FCD. Thanks.

  8. #28
    Boolit Master
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    The lee die FCD has a carbide sizer ring in in, I put the 45ACP loaded round thur it. It sizes the round to proper specs.

  9. #29
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mk42gunner View Post
    Untold billions of rounds of .45 ACP have been loaded without a factory crimp die. As long as your sizer and taper crimp dies are properly adjusted, I don't think you really need one.

    However it is only $10 more....


    Robert
    Yep, I reloaded thousands before the FCD came out. They all worked; 9mm feeds, 380 goes in and goes bang, 45 ACP all chamber and fire. The drawback for me with the FCD is the post seat sizing. I need some larger bullets for overbore guns and the FCD swages them down too much for me.

  10. #30
    Boolit Buddy BSkerj's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tn_River_Ratt View Post
    Get the FCD. It solved alot of my problems.

    Ratt
    What River said
    You'll shoot your eye out kid !

  11. #31
    Boolit Master bigboredad's Avatar
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    I just shot 200 rounds made with a lee fcd and my barrel is bright and shiny as ever. I've always seated and crimped in separate steps and I've always used a lee taper crimp die but I got curious about the fcd and for 14.95 I thought why not. could it be there is more than one way to do things naaah couldn't be everybody knows there is only one way to get a job done right

  12. #32
    Boolit Master
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    "thank you 1hole. I've tried it both ways and in my 1911 it didn't seem to make a bit of diff. So, until something goes wrong, I'll not risk squeezin my boolits down. Mike "

    Mike, it seems most folks miss the point of Lee's "post crimping"carbide ring. Actually, all the handgun FCD does is make sure the ammo will fit and chamber anything it's fed into. It's made for the largest SAAMI tolerance cartridge diameter and, therefore, has zero effect on rounds that are smaller. Ergo, some people use them and assume they are doing nothing and, for them, that's true. Other folks seem to have larger, sloppy chambers and for them the size ring may squeeze down ammo that may or should be left alone. Only proving that nothing's a certainity for every situation, how can it be otherwise?

    I loaded a half ton of .38, .357, .44 mag and .45 ACP without a FCD before it was invented, most of it chambered properly, some didn't. Now I use an FCD and it all works! Bottom line, if you need an FCD, get it; it works and works good. But, if you don't need it, don't bother! Thing is, if you need it, just once, and don't have it you may have chambering problems when you can least afford it. I find it to be cheap insurance for reliability of my wife's defense loads. And, yeah, for my own too!
    Last edited by 1hole; 05-23-2010 at 08:50 PM.

  13. #33
    Boolit Master

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    I prefer to shoot my pistol boolits unsized, in MY 1911 with MY boolits the loaded round wouldn't slip into the chamber. I ran them through the FCD adding NO additional crimp and they slip in perfectly to the proper depth.

    I too have loaded thousands of 45 rounds in a previous reloading life with no issues but with this gun/boolit it works.

  14. #34
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    Well I'm along a little different line then most here. I too have loaded hundred of thousand of 45 acp like Charger. I roll crimp and have never had a problem. I'll also put my loads up against any similar load that is taper crimped. I don't see a need for the FCD especially with cast. The NRA Cast Bullet book did a pretty thorough test with a sophisticated rifle action with a 45 acp barrel to eliminate any human error in shooting and the results came out in favoring the roll crimp. That was good enough for me then and good enough now. They said don't roll crimp more then .020 inch.

  15. #35
    Boolit Buddy AviatorTroy's Avatar
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    I have a FCD and didn't really ever feel the need to use it as the roll crimp always worked fine. Actually, I tried it just for S and Gs and it wouldn't shoot at all. All rounds bullets showed evidence of keyholeing. Terrible accuracy. Now, every gun is different but I sure wont be using it for my Star PD again.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check