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Thread: Revolver shot loads that WORK!

  1. #61
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    Gear,

    I made a shotcup containing 300 gr of shot, unfortunately it was too long to cycle in my marlin's action, and when I managed to get it out of the mag tube, I chambered it just to see.

    Of course that was dumb. The darn shotcup got stuck in the rifling and had to be driven out.

    I think that with a bit lower powder charge, I should be able to get about 300 gr of shot in there.

    I'm thinking I may just reduce the powder charge to 10 gr. Should be sufficiently cat sneeze.

    With the compressed powder charge, I don't think we get into any dangerous areas like SEE, even with light loads of the slow burners.

    I wonder though, wouldn't having only the one seam do some pattern deformation?

    And how far from the muzzle would you suggest I place the cardboard?

    Another thing, I was thinking about the whole lack of a shock absorber in these loads.
    Got me wondering if a thin slice of hot glue attached to the base of the shotcup would be sufficiently shock absorbing. Might also give a bit more square base. I would think the wad leaving the shot as uniformly as possible would be a good thing.

    Well, I better get a hold of some more shot so I can do some testing. I think I have a bag of it somewhere.
    "I have enough ammo and guns to shoot my way into Nevada." - California resident.

  2. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by excess650 View Post
    Years ago, and I mean 30 years ago, I made cylinder length cases for the 44mag from 30-40 Krag cases. The rims need to be turned down a bit.....might need to try that again. Why? Just use .410 cushionless wads, trim the petals to cylinder length+1/4" after seating in the case, slip a cut-off case section over the petals just short of cylinder length, and heat/melt the ends of the wad petals to seal over the shot.

    Heat shrink tubing comes in various diameters. I wonder if anyone has tried using it as "tubes"? To much friction in the bore.

    It might be worth searching the 'net to see if anyone makes LDPE thin wall tubing in useable diameters. Larger diameter straws come to mind.....just thinking out loud! LDPE tubing is available, but milk jugs are free, come in various thicknesses to suit your needs, melt and reform easily, and are very tough.
    Quote Originally Posted by thx997303 View Post
    Gear,

    I made a shotcup containing 300 gr of shot, unfortunately it was too long to cycle in my marlin's action, and when I managed to get it out of the mag tube, I chambered it just to see.

    Of course that was dumb. The darn shotcup got stuck in the rifling and had to be driven out. That's why I suggested a .45 ACP case for a forming collar, it shouldn't be much more than .451" ID at the mouth and gets smaller very quickly toward the case head, you could section the case somewhere between the case mouth and head to get a collar the right length, taper, and ID to form a good nose on you shotcup that would ride inside the lands. That way, at least in theory, you could make a cartridge that would approach the max OAL that will feed in your gun and still be able to extract it from the chamber intact.

    I think that with a bit lower powder charge, I should be able to get about 300 gr of shot in there.

    I'm thinking I may just reduce the powder charge to 10 gr. Should be sufficiently cat sneeze. Only one way to find out!

    With the compressed powder charge, I don't think we get into any dangerous areas like SEE, even with light loads of the slow burners. No real danger of that here, or with Unique period.

    I wonder though, wouldn't having only the one seam do some pattern deformation? Why do you only have one seam? Yes, it will deform the pattern. Take a razor knife of some sort and slit the shotcup in one or two places lengthwise after forming the base so you have two or three petals like a shotgun wad, that way it will expand evenly like a flower and brake quickly upon muzzle exit allowing clean shot departure.

    And how far from the muzzle would you suggest I place the cardboard? Ten feet. Wear your safety glasses!

    Another thing, I was thinking about the whole lack of a shock absorber in these loads.
    Got me wondering if a thin slice of hot glue attached to the base of the shotcup would be sufficiently shock absorbing. Might also give a bit more square base. I would think the wad leaving the shot as uniformly as possible would be a good thing. IDK, perhaps you can try it and see, the proof of any improvement is in the patterns and the condition of the recovered shotcup, and in a rifled, cylinder-bore barrel there is only so much you can do.

    Well, I better get a hold of some more shot so I can do some testing. I think I have a bag of it somewhere.
    Have fun! Post pics of your recovered shotcup and ten foot patten, I can give you my two cents worth of feedback.

    Gear

  3. #63
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    Ha, for some reason I thought you were only using one seam. Guess I should have looked more carefully.

    I'm going to redo the one I have done. I'm going to give the 45 acp a try, though the 50 AE case worked Ok.

    I'm going to start at 10 gr unique and I'm going to attempt to get 300 gr of shot in there.

    I'll take pics. Probably be able to test them soon. Next weekend at the latest.
    "I have enough ammo and guns to shoot my way into Nevada." - California resident.

  4. #64
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    Well, I'm having a heck of a time making these shot cups.

    I need some practice.

    At the rate I'm going, I may not get to test these this weekend.
    "I have enough ammo and guns to shoot my way into Nevada." - California resident.

  5. #65
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    "Blow up" the pics on my posts 1, 5, and 8, study the associated text and way I made the tools to form the shotcups. I'll bet you will pick up something new each time you look at the pics up close. With the right tools it is a piece of cake. If not, you will struggle. The key is to get the mandrel the correct size and build a forming sleeve from some old cartriges with the heads and web cut off. Your template for the shotcup is important, too, as it determines how much plastic you have to form the base and how much left over plastic there is to form the petals after the shotcup is seated.

    Gear

  6. #66
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    Alright, I got making the shot cups down. Just need to use a razor blade so I can make the plastic the right length in the first place. Scissors aren't near precise enough if you ask me.

    I found a bolt that was a bit loose inside the 45-70 case and cut a 45 acp case for a nose collar.

    Of course, I use the nose collar for forming the nose, and for making the base.

    Here is everything I used to make the shot shell.



    Here is the shotshell cycling into the chamber from the mag tube.



    And here it is ejecting from the rifle.



    So I'm gonna make up a few more of these and see how they work.
    "I have enough ammo and guns to shoot my way into Nevada." - California resident.

  7. #67
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    TIP: Once you're happy with the dimensions of your cutout, make a template out of sheet metal that you can cut around with your razor knife, that way you get consistent shapes and that saves a lot of headaches too.

    Looks good, can't wait to see how these patten. What's the twist of your Marlin?

    Gear

  8. #68
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    It's got a 1:20 twist.
    "I have enough ammo and guns to shoot my way into Nevada." - California resident.

  9. #69
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    Well carp.

    I made a few more shot cups and when I got ready to put the shot in, I reached for my bag of shot.

    SURPRISE! Some jerk turned my bag of shot into .454 round balls!

    So this project is on hold until I get myself some more shot.
    "I have enough ammo and guns to shoot my way into Nevada." - California resident.

  10. #70
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    $5/1.5lbs at Wal-Mart, 25 individual containers. Try to get #9 if you can, but #8 is better than #7-1/2.

    Gear

  11. #71
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    I gots to make me some of these, bet they would be good in my Ruger BH .357
    Good, Cheap, Fast: Pick two.

    ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ

  12. #72
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    I've never seen shot at wal-mart.

    Is it located in housewares?

    But seriously, where would it be located if they have it?

    You aint talkin about buying shotshells and mutilating them are ya? I have a shotgun and the idea of mutilating shotshells to make shotshells sounds kind of like masturbation.
    "I have enough ammo and guns to shoot my way into Nevada." - California resident.

  13. #73
    Boolit Master

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    Yhea, I am sure he was talking about abusing regular shotshells..
    Good, Cheap, Fast: Pick two.

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  14. #74
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    Some days, I'm a little slow on the uptake.
    "I have enough ammo and guns to shoot my way into Nevada." - California resident.

  15. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by thx997303 View Post
    I've never seen shot at wal-mart.

    Is it located in housewares?

    But seriously, where would it be located if they have it?

    You aint talkin about buying shotshells and mutilating them are ya? I have a shotgun and the idea of mutilating shotshells to make shotshells sounds kind of like masturbation.
    What's wrong with that?

    Gear

  16. #76
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    Did I say there was anything wrong with it?

    Well I'll have to see if I can't find some change and pic up a few shotshells.

    I'm a little poor at the moment. Maybe somebody has some they would like to donate to the cause.
    "I have enough ammo and guns to shoot my way into Nevada." - California resident.

  17. #77
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    I tested the ONE shot shell I made.

    I was unable to recover the wad, since I didn't have enough cardboard available.

    I shot it at a tree.

    At about 15 feet it gave me a perfectly round, roughly head sized pattern.

    The center was not blown out of the pattern.

    Honestly, I don't believe further testing is required on this load. Seems like 10 gr Unique and 350 gr of shot will do what I need it to do.
    "I have enough ammo and guns to shoot my way into Nevada." - California resident.

  18. #78
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    Good job! Was your bore still clean?

    Gear

  19. #79
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    Yep, still as clean as it usually is.
    "I have enough ammo and guns to shoot my way into Nevada." - California resident.

  20. #80
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    Fantastic concept Geargnasher! Looks like a real winner. I've tried the CCI shot shells with poor results.
    I think there is a real marketing opportunity for one of you machinist here the refine and market some tools!!
    I'd buy one

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check