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Thread: Lets make a Swage press

  1. #21
    Boolit Buddy
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    ANeat,

    Looks like you did some good work and you have somthing to be proud of.

    Couple of questions:

    1. Not having used a "Corbin" style press before, I take it that the ram is conneceded to the center piece that moves up and down on the round guide bars. I see set screw hole in the front - is that what holds the ram so that the ram and the center piece move together?

    2. I am assuming that the slot in the ram is for an extractor for the internal punch. Is that correct?

    3. Is there a spring loaded internal punch that is used for point forming (1/16 inch pin) and how does that work?

    4. I see you chose to mill slots in the top for the rectangular bars to slide in and out. Would it not have been easier to use round bars and round holes and mill them flat where they meet the camming bar at the bottom?

    5. How did you drill your holes for the cam and get them alligned?

    6. Did you use bearing on the ram at the cam?

    7. Did you make the bronze bushing or did you order them from someplace?

    8. It would appear that you have a large treaded insert (maybe 1 1/2 inch to 7/8 inch similar to the RCBS presses. If you intend on using dies that have 7/8 x 14 threads, why not make this a 7/8 x14 threaded hole?

    9. I do not have access to welding equipment. Do you think that the pieces on the cam bar at the bottom could be threaded and cap head screws be used to hold them in place and still work without any problems? Maybe a couple of 3/8 inch cap head screws countersunk for each piece you have welded?

    As you can tell, I am new at the "Corbin" style presses but would sure like to make one (I for one am admire your work).

    Thank You,
    Martin

  2. #22
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by martin View Post
    ANeat,

    Looks like you did some good work and you have somthing to be proud of.

    Couple of questions:

    1. Not having used a "Corbin" style press before, I take it that the ram is conneceded to the center piece that moves up and down on the round guide bars. I see set screw hole in the front - is that what holds the ram so that the ram and the center piece move together?


    Yes the ram is connected to the center piece, it acts as a guide for the ram since there is actually very little support where the ram goes thru the base

    2. I am assuming that the slot in the ram is for an extractor for the internal punch. Is that correct?


    Yes the slot is for the base punch, which also acts as the ejector. When the ram goes up the punch bottoms out on a step inside the ram. When the ram goes down a pin holds the ejector/base in place while the center die moves down with the ram

    3. Is there a spring loaded internal punch that is used for point forming (1/16 inch pin) and how does that work?


    I havent done that yet but its my understanding that when point forming on a press like this the bullet would be nose down and the ejector would come up from the bottom

    4. I see you chose to mill slots in the top for the rectangular bars to slide in and out. Would it not have been easier to use round bars and round holes and mill them flat where they meet the camming bar at the bottom?

    Those rectangular bars only swing, they do not move up and down, they are the "fulcrum" point I guess you would call it. They are pinned to the top plate to provide a more rigid setup. Very similar to a Redding or Walnut hill press

    5. How did you drill your holes for the cam and get them alligned?



    I drilled everything on a Bridgeport milling machine

    6. Did you use bearing on the ram at the cam?


    There is no bearing on the Ram (yet) I have a bushing for that as well but another member here that has made their own press didnt use any bushings and has no problems yet so Im going to try it for a while and see

    7. Did you make the bronze bushing or did you order them from someplace?


    I purchased oilite bushing from Mcmaster Carr, they are press fit into place

    8. It would appear that you have a large treaded insert (maybe 1 1/2 inch to 7/8 inch similar to the RCBS presses. If you intend on using dies that have 7/8 x 14 threads, why not make this a 7/8 x14 threaded hole?

    Thats just in case I decide to do any 50 bmg reloading, 50 bmg and I think a couple other larger calibers use a threaded die larger than 7/8-14...... the hole is 1 1/2-12.

    9. I do not have access to welding equipment. Do you think that the pieces on the cam bar at the bottom could be threaded and cap head screws be used to hold them in place and still work without any problems? Maybe a couple of 3/8 inch cap head screws countersunk for each piece you have welded?

    Its possibe, If I didnt have the welder I would have sure tried it bolted together. That would be a lot of drilling though... Might be a good oportunity to look up a local weld shop

    As you can tell, I am new at the "Corbin" style presses but would sure like to make one (I for one am admire your work).

    Thank You,
    Martin
    ........
    Last edited by ANeat; 02-22-2010 at 07:31 PM.

  3. #23
    Boolit Master
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    Martin here are a couple more pics of the press that may answer some of your questions a little better.

    Ram down (handle up)




    And Ram up (handle down)


  4. #24
    Boolit Master
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    Nice work Aneat, very impressive. Hoping to get started on one or two myself soon.
    Paul G.
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  5. #25
    Boolit Master
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    Thanks; I should add that this is probably closer to the Corbin Mega Mite in size http://www.corbins.com/pr-csp2.htm

    With many features of Richard Corbins Walnut Hill http://rceco.com/MN.asp?pg=products&specific=81&from=36

    Depending on what you plan on swaging the basic design could be scaled up or down pretty easily.

  6. #26
    Boolit Master
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    Here is my material list for the cold rolled 1018, (from Speedy Metals) as I mentioned earlier, this is a larger version so depending on what youre doing the sizes can be juggled around a bit. (larger or smaller)

    I used 1" polished/case hardened linear guide rods from Mcmaster. and 1.5" for the ram. I would probably try the stressproof polished rods from Speedy Metals if I do another.

    2 reqd-- 1/2 x 1-1/2 1018 CF flat- 24" Toggle links

    1 reqd-- 3/4 x 2 1018 CF flat-24" A piece I cut up to make the small parts for the toggle

    1 reqd -- 1-1/4 x 1-1/2 1018 CF flat-12" The main part of the toggle

    1 reqd -- 1 x 3 1018 CF 6" Guide plate

    1 reqd -- 1 x 4 1018 CF 9" Top Plate

    1 reqd -- 1 x 5-1/2 1018 CF 6" Base plate ( a litte bigger wouldnt hurt depending on how you mount it)

    1 reqd --- 1" rd 1018 cold finished-24" The handle

  7. #27
    Boolit Master
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    ANeat, very nice! Looks like a very study press to swage about anything a guy would want to by hand. A+

  8. #28
    Boolit Buddy Daywalker's Avatar
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    Very excellent job on the press. I am definatly filled with jealousy

  9. #29
    Boolit Buddy jixxerbill's Avatar
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    a freekin-mazing !!!!!!! aneat that is awsome work man ! i was following the other link when u were discussing making a press, im glad to see it came to life ... great job man.....grats, just one problem i see with it, its not at MY HOUSE lol

  10. #30
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    ............Well it appears you did a very proffessional job of it. Paint the swing arms gloss black and some hammertone paint for the balance of the press and it'll look just like a 'real one'

    BTW, if you have the bullets' nose formed in the die (like for a smooth transition ogive) like I did for making slugs to paper patch for the 38-55, below:



    You can use the ejector rod to create HP's of various types. There are 2 ways to do it. One is to part off .750" OD 'washers' of various thicknesses to go under the ejector body inside the ram. Of course the more washers you place unde it, the higher it rides and you'll reach a point where the ejector spring will bind. The second way is to merely form the desired HP on the end of the ejector rod and have the rod long enough to project sufficientlyinto the die to seal the bottom of the die. Just swap them out in the ejector body.

    ..............Buckshot
    Last edited by Buckshot; 02-23-2010 at 03:21 AM.
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  11. #31
    I'm A Honcho! warf73's Avatar
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    Great looking press, thats what I want someday a press like that.

    Nice work ANeat
    "Life isn't like a box of chocolates...It's more like
    a jar of jalapenos. What you do today, might burn
    your ass tomorrow."

  12. #32
    Boolit Buddy
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    ANeat,

    Thank you for the explination and also the additional pictures. I now have a much better understanding of how the press functions.

    Couple more questions:

    1. The pins that you are using for the fulcrum arms and the ram, are the hardened pins? From the pictures, it looks like they may be turned down grade 8 bolts?

    2. I see that you have additional holes at the bottom of the cam. I presume that this will give you additional ram travel. If so, what is the ram travel of the two settings?

    3. When you drilled/bored the holes for the center piece that travels on the guide bars the bottom piece which is stationary, and the top piece where the punch is affixed to the threaded holder, did you drill them all at the same time to maintain allignemnt? Did you drill a pilot hole and then open them up? Did you ream these holes or just drill?

    4. I presume that where the guide bars enter the tip plate the holes were counterboared so that the bolts on top could be used to hold the plate and the guide bars secure.

    Now you have me in a mode that I'm fairly sure that I could machine up one of these. Any hints or kinks that you have to offer would be much appreciated.

    Great work!

    Thank You,
    Martin

  13. #33
    Boolit Master
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    I just broke my Classic cast today after 2000 of so bullets(not a fatal failure though) so this is more intriguing. One thought and one question...

    Do you think that the 1" diameter handle might have been overkill and cause operator fatigue? Have you ever tried to bend a 24" length of 3/4" cold roll? This might be a place to use a better steel so you would only need 5/8" stock.


    What is the slot in the side of the ram for? Never mind, I see it is for an ejector.
    Last edited by richbug; 02-23-2010 at 03:42 PM.

  14. #34
    Boolit Master

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    Very Nice Work!

    Jerry
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    NRA Benefactor Life Member

  15. #35
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by richbug View Post
    I just broke my Classic cast today after 2000 of so bullets(not a fatal failure though) so this is more intriguing. One thought and one question...

    Do you think that the 1" diameter handle might have been overkill and cause operator fatigue? Have you ever tried to bend a 24" length of 3/4" cold roll? This might be a place to use a better steel so you would only need 5/8" stock.


    What is the slot in the side of the ram for? Never mind, I see it is for an ejector.

    The 1 " handle may be overkill, I hope so I dont know how it would cause operator fatigue.

  16. #36
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by martin View Post
    ANeat,

    Thank you for the explination and also the additional pictures. I now have a much better understanding of how the press functions.

    Couple more questions:

    1. The pins that you are using for the fulcrum arms and the ram, are the hardened pins? From the pictures, it looks like they may be turned down grade 8 bolts?

    The pins are just that, 1/2" grade 8 bolts, not even turned down. I just just a long bolt with enough shank length and cut off the threads

    2. I see that you have additional holes at the bottom of the cam. I presume that this will give you additional ram travel. If so, what is the ram travel of the two settings?

    I havent measured the exact travel but it should be close to 3" of travel in the short stroke/swage mode and 6" travel in the "reloading" mode.
    Im not sure if the long stroke mode is even needed or if I will use it very much. I put it there just in case


    3. When you drilled/bored the holes for the center piece that travels on the guide bars the bottom piece which is stationary, and the top piece where the punch is affixed to the threaded holder, did you drill them all at the same time to maintain allignemnt? Did you drill a pilot hole and then open them up? Did you ream these holes or just drill?

    I did not drill them all at the same time, luckily I have a bridgeport with a digital readout so its pretty easy to get the spacing pretty much dead on.
    The holes for the the ram were drilled first then eventually bored out with a boring bar.

    Any other holes are started with w center drill, then a small starter hole, then larger


    4. I presume that where the guide bars enter the tip plate the holes were counterboared so that the bolts on top could be used to hold the plate and the guide bars secure.

    Where the rods mount at the top and bottom can really have a bit of play and probably makes it go together a little easier. Once everything is assembled and aligned/tightened up its real smooth

    Now you have me in a mode that I'm fairly sure that I could machine up one of these. Any hints or kinks that you have to offer would be much appreciated.

    Great work!

    Thank You,
    Martin
    Thanks again Martin. Its really not too tough. I had only seen pics of different swage presses before I started. Got a lot of help and info from the guys here. I tried to incorporate a few of the features I liked.

    Hopefully Ill get all the little details finished up and get it painted; then move on to making some dies, then bullets

  17. #37
    Boolit Bub
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    ANeat,
    That is a great looking press. I have been reading this post, waiting for the material list. Thanks for putting that list in the post. Now I just need to talk to my buddy about the machine work.
    I was looking at the list and wondering what the length of the ram and the guide rods were? If you wouldn't mind listing that I would appreciate it. Thanks

  18. #38
    Boolit Master
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    Thanks, The guide rods are 1" diameter 12" long and used as is. I just faced the ends square and drilled/tapped the ends.

    I bought an 18" long 1.5 inch piece for the ram. I cant recall what the final length ended up being.

    The is a bit of flexability in the ram length. As long as there is enough room to adjust the dies. The more I look at mine the more I think I could have made the ram a little longer. But an 18" piece is plenty and leaves room for trimming.

    Get your buddy interested in swaging, then get him to machine the stuff

  19. #39
    Boolit Master

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    ANeat, that is a fantastic press, very well done. If you are thinking of making a few to sell, let me know. I have a ffriend that ordered one from one of the Corbin Brothers, it is a really good press, but it took more than 9 months for him to get it.
    WHEN IN DOUBT, USE MORE CLOUT!

  20. #40
    Boolit Master
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    Southern Son, Im in the same situation, waiting for a press from Richard Corbin(and dies) Ive been waiting since May 2009, so it will probably be here any day now since I got the "home made" press almost finished

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