Lets make a Swage press

[ANeat]

Hi Dale; I should add that I did not do the plans that are available. There are several minor things that were omitted or left to the end user. Things like the set screws for the dowel pins in the toggle arms.



The cross brace for the link arms really needs to be as high up to the base as you can get it. There isnt much use if you put it on one end of the span.

Most of the other lengths on the ram and linkage can all be juggled around to some degree depending on the dies and what application the guys building it has in mind.

There are a lot of variables depending on the dies a person uses so its tough to commit to one specific dimension.

[dalep]

For the cross brace any reason it can't be above the base plate when the link arms are shortened for reloading type use. Then I can just have the one location for the cross brace that works well for all configurations here.

[ANeat]

For reloading use I just screw in a reloading adapter. It raises the location of the shell holder and has a place for the spent primers to come out...

Something similar to the one Richard Corbin sells for the Walnut Hill http://rceco.com/MN.asp?pg=products&...ic=209&from=36

[LeadJunkie]

ANeat,

Thank you very much for documenting your achievements for the rest of us to copy. I've been following this thread for a while now and I just ordered the metal to make a few of these presses.

Would you mind commenting on the tapping of the 1.5" hole? By coincidence I happen to have the required tap, but I've never used it or a tap anywhere near as large. I was planning on supporting the tap with a live center on my Bridgeport and turning it with a large wrench and cheater bar. Did you do something like this on yours? How much leverage did you need? Can you give me any hints to make it go smoothly?

[Gunto]

I wanted to play with the model to check operation, so I modeled everything. I'll probably do some new prints at some point as well (no promises though)
There were a few changes I made so far, most based on posts from other users.

• Added second set of holes 4" down to the toggle links for a shorter ram to top plate distance
• Moved the cross brace for the link arms down 1"
• Lengthened the arm to 27" to clear the top of the press
• Added set screw holes to the toggle arms for holding dowel pins in
• Added flats to the arm where the set screw holds it at the toggle bar
• Changed from a threaded end on the arm to a tapped hole and 1.5" set screw

The file is an e-Drawing (think PDF for CAD models) e-drawings viewer download
This allows viewing of the 3D assembly, rotation, measurement, STL file export, show/hide, 3 configurations 3", 3" with short links, 6" strokes. The 6" stroke has an animation.
Attachment 63351

How to find all dimensions?
Where can I see drawing?

[LatheRunner]

LeadJunkie, I used a live center in the bridgeport to tap my top plate. I used a large adjustable wrench. I had someone else hold down on the quill while I turned the tap. Wasn't to bad. When I made my top plate I added some taped holes on the side to attach a clamp for holding the handle in the upright position. I got the spring clamp at Ace Hardware. The type you would use to hold a rake up on the wall.

Also if you don't want to weld the toggle bar together you can bolt the pivot pieces on it. That's how I did mine. Works just fine. I used 3/8-18 bolts. That way I was also able to drill and ream the dowel pin holes thru the toggle pieces before I bolted them on. I did not have to drill and ream them all at one time. The same with the pivot for the ram.

If you need any more help just ask.

Aneat, Thank you for starting this thread. My swagging press works great. Now I just need to automate it.

LatheRunner

[LeadJunkie]

LeadJunkie, I used a live center in the bridgeport to tap my top plate. I used a large adjustable wrench. I had someone else hold down on the quill while I turned the tap. Wasn't to bad. When I made my top plate I added some taped holes on the side to attach a clamp for holding the handle in the upright position. I got the spring clamp at Ace Hardware. The type you would use to hold a rake up on the wall.

Also if you don't want to weld the toggle bar together you can bolt the pivot pieces on it. That's how I did mine. Works just fine. I used 3/8-18 bolts. That way I was also able to drill and ream the dowel pin holes thru the toggle pieces before I bolted them on. I did not have to drill and ream them all at one time. The same with the pivot for the ram.

Thanks. That's exactly how I'm planning on tapping it. I'm glad to hear it worked well.

I haven't decided whether to weld or bolt my toggle bars together. I'm leaning toward bolting them like you did though.

[flyguyeddy]

Can the toggle be made out of 1-1/4 safely? We have that size of key stock here at work.

[Jim_Fleming]

If that's available that's what I'd try. The very worst that can happen is that it won't be strong enough, and you'll just have to make another one.

I drilled and tapped my linkage blocks instead of arc welding them onto the 1.5 x 1.5 bar. Seems cleaner to me.

Can the toggle be made out of 1-1/4 safely? We have that size of key stock here at work.

[flyguyeddy]

Is there any reason to not use motorcycle fork tubes as the ram and guide rods?

[flyguyeddy]

I was thinking 35mm tubes for the guide rods and a 39mm one for the ram

[flyguyeddy]

Anyone? Seems that they would work fine for at least the guide rods. The ram, maybe not so much.

[Jim_Fleming]

I think I'd use something along the lines of solid stock. Tubing of any sort, I'd think would be too light.

What's the wall thickness of the tubing?

[flyguyeddy]

I'm not sure yet I have not removed them from the motorcycle. It seems to me that all the guide rods do is take a sliding linear force and no side-to-side forces. The ram only has a linear force on it as well. These things are made to withstand side loads on a bike, I figured they'd be plenty strong enough for this application. I assume at least .100 wall but could be more/less

[Relsom]

Interesting thread. I'd be interested in a kit or even the autocad drawings. I can weld and have some mechanical skills but lack the background for machining the parts.

[Jim_Fleming]

There is an attached pdf file back on the first page, that has the drawings for everything. There are about 10 pages to the file.

[USAVet890]

Interesting thread. I'd be interested in a kit or even the autocad drawings. I can weld and have some mechanical skills but lack the background for machining the parts.

I have just finished the drawings in Solidworks and am going to price the metal and start cutting next week. My buddy and I were planning on making 3 or 4 and sell a few to defer the cost some.

[taminsong]

Here's my build, after trying for more than 2 years. Finding the right people to do the job is the hardest.
I wasted a lot of materials, because the machinist just like to accept my money but don't know s**t to read the plans.

But man, I was proud of it. It is a real experience and right now, I can build one without any plans in my hands, lol!
Pictures were blurred, because I just use a cheap phone to take it.


It is in the machine shop were we test the function of the press. At first I was really really afraid that the ram and the guide would bind.


Assembled it a little bit hot from the oven after powdercoating.




Inside my reloading room.This press was huge, and I need a longer punch holder. I was also thinking of shortening the toggle links.

Now, I want to thanks Aneat, Matt for the plans, and all the good people in this forum. God bless you all!

[Racenviper]

I noticed something on the second picture. Do I see washers between the top plate and the post nuts? If so they are not needed. May cause uses in the future as they compress. Nice looking press overall.

[taminsong]

Ok, I will try removing them.
Just back from the machine shop. I shorten the toggle link by 2 5/8. I'll have to install them and see what happen.