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I like that steam idea, but for now I'm going to try some Ed's Red. I tried soaking carry guns in diesel fuel for a few days and blowing off, but still ended up with some rust after I carried a bit more in the summer heat. So much for the idea of diesel forming a protective layer.
I might even put extra lanolin in the Ed's Red, since we're near salt air here and carry pieces get sweaty, too. I'll probably keep the acetone out until I'm ready to use it, though I might just keep it in the containers from the mineral spirits, acetone, or kerosene (all those gallon metal cans with screw-on caps).
I hear hydraulic fluid is the same stuff as ATF but without the red, and much cheaper. Is that true? Maybe I should make Ed's not so Red.
Also diesel is like kerosene but with extra "good stuff" in it for metals. It smells more, but I wonder how it would be instead of the kerosene, since it's cheaper and I have lots around?
Last edited by Brick85; 09-13-2010 at 10:29 PM.
Brick 85, I use anhydrous lanolin in my Ed's Red with Dextron II or III ATF, not hydraulic fluid and not diesel although both ought to work as well as ordinary kerosene to help clean carbon, powder and primer residue as does mineral spirits. ATF is a protectant for high pressure and anti-oxident. I have some clean kero for lamp oil to protect the mantels in my Alladin lamps, no acid content, expensive and don't use it in Ed's Red. For many years I used ordinary kero in my lamps and heater and see no harm done.
I leave out acetone unless needed to clean out plastic shot wads in shotguns.
Anhydrouis lanolin is what protects the blued and stainless (from salt) gun metal from rusting if stored in racks or gun safes. Of course fingerprints will cause rust as does any salty sweat. Many of my guns suffered little or none from a serious house fire as all had thin or heavy coating of Ed's Red and I had even a heavier concentration of lanolin for some of them and the military parkerized and bead blasted and blued guns soaked up much more and had no damage from the fire, smoke residue and water from the fire department.
Carry guns need to be wiped down every day and any time handled with a very thin and light coating of Ed's Red such that it won't pick up any debris keeping the gun from working properly. A cotton gun cloth or even a paper towel in a Ziplock can be carried if necessary to wipe down the blued guns as well as stainless one. I use a toothbrush to get to difficult areas of the guns crevices, sights and screws and then wipe off excess. All bearing surfaces and hinges are lightly lubed as well.
I could say more but this is enough and I am convinced Ed's Red is about the best you can make for all but removing heavy copper or lead alloy fouling. I have use many commercial gun cleaners and lubes, still use some of them and make others as well as needed, long story.
well, i shoot a mix of "j" bullets, and boolits. i have been using hoopes bench rest (for copper removal) in everything. i am down under 1/2 pint, and i printed off the ingredients to make myself up a batch of eds red. going to give that a try. i also have a bottle of sweets 7.62, and a container of jb paste. both of these last two do not get used often, but once in a while, you need some extra cleaning. typicly, i clean after every shooting session. i will be mixing up two gallons of eds the first time around. one to use like normal, and one for a soak "tank".
This thread and others that have active over the past few years have one common link, "where do I get lanolin?". A few years ago I ran across an alternative to Ed's Red that got hung with the moniker, "Steve's Squeeze". I was attracted to it because it used LLA instead of lanolin. For the most part, Steve's Squeeze has been ignored. Since we have several members here who are much more comfortable with the chemistry of compounds that we use, I would be curious as to the relative effectiveness of lanolin vs. LLA as a rust preventive, assuming that is the role they play in the respective mixes. Anyone??
John
W.TN
Do you use the toothbrush every day? Do you disassemble the gun every day, or just wipe down the exterior?
I saw the document put out by Ed himself, and he recommended also making a gun oil out of ATF and Kerosene, 1:1, for use in oiling the guns. Perhaps that's what would be best to wipe it down with, to keep the acetone off the wood? I would probably add some lanolin when I get some to that gun oil, too, if that makes sense.
Lanolin is found in the baby section of big box stores in “toothpaste” tubes for nursing mommy nipples.
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Lanolin is an excellent lubricant. Frequently used for case sizing and forming. I use it. Quite effective, just a bit on the fingertip.
Hatcher's notebook had a formula for Japanese gun oil that included lanolin.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...panese-Gun-Oil
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |