Paper patch bullets

[Distant Thunder]

As to "plain ol' dihydrogen monoxide" I have to say that it seems to work for Brent. I have always mixed my H2-O with Mobil water soluble oil, the same stuff I use in my machines as coolant/lubricant, for a couple reasons. It leaves a thin layer of lubrication in the bore which can't hurt. It is also a very good rust preventative which again can't hurt either. I think it works quite well in the fouling control and accuracy departments also. YMMV

[Don McDowell]

I like the Napa water soluble oil.

[rfd]

why would adding some form of oil to the water of a wiping patch or wiper matter for shot-to-shot fouling control?

black powder residue is readily soluble in plain old water, particularly since that will be addressed within short seconds of firing. why would there be a need for oil as a preservative, rust preventative, or some means of lubing or cooling the bore? after shoot cleanup, absolutely. during the shot process is another story, i'd think.

not saying either process is right or wrong, just looking for reasonable facts for the advantages of a water/oil fouling control over just plain water.

[Lead pot]

I use antifreeze for two reasons and two reasons only. From November to April it gets cold in these parts and my wiping patches freeze with just water. During the hot days the antifreeze keeps the moisture in the patches constant from evaporating when the warm and hot winds blow over them. When th temperature drops down in the teens and colder I use it straight because RV antifreeze 50/50 starts to crystalize and stick together.
I don't like oil/water mix. I get a increase of vertical and I don't think a dry patch removes all the water that beads up on the oil.

[Lead pot]

It work well enough in my test that I think I can get it to work like I want it to with a change in my lube cookie. I think Kurt could help me with that, but I don't want him to give away any trade secrets.

Yup Jim I developed something that works but it's top secret!!

[Don McDowell]

The 1875 Remington Catalog, and Sharps catalogs from the same time period, all explain the "secret" to shooting dirty, and Sharps even gives away the secret recipe for a lube cookie.

[Don McDowell]

Tried the rv antifreeze thing, in the low humidity in this part of the country , it tends to dry out extremely fast, and make for some super hard fouling.

[Lead pot]

Don I don't see that going on. When I can use it at the Q with the winds and dry air blowing there and I can hold my misses by 6 shots or less from the match winner it's not giving me a fouling problems.
I think one of those patch poppers, I think that is what they call them, with just plain water dampened patches would be the best way to go, but I don't have one.

[Don McDowell]

I like the patch poppers for when just pushing a damp patch followed by a dry, the biggest problem is I like a 2 1/2 inch patch for the 45 bores, and those poppers are designed for a 2 inch.
For just gong shooting where a hit in the middle of the target counts the same as one skipped in,a person can get away with a lot of different fouling control routines than silhouette and bptr matches.
And as always in this game what ever a person is comfortable with..

[rfd]

anyone offering those patch poppers for sale or is it still a DIY affair?

[Lead pot]

I was at a local lumber yard getting weed spray and I seen some clear square plastic tubing from 1" to 5" inside diameters and the thought crossed my mind making one.

[BrentD]

poppers are made and sold by Paul Huard. Making one is a bit more tricky than you might think.

I don't leave home without mine!

[BrentD]

Those of you looking for a "shoot dirty" paper patched bullet might try this one



it is 420 grns and it has a shoulder on it that seems to be able to scrape out, rather than ride over, Lead fouling. in this case it is groove diameter, but it can be sized down to be land diameter too. This iss my new chicken bullet, but I originally had it made to shoot in a Marlin 1895

The shoulder is reminiscent of the shoulder after the first step in a swaged bullet. I used to swage everything so when sold my swaging gear, I had a mould made to imitate it.

[Lead pot]

Give that Man a Barley Pop he is right

[BrentD]

Long ago, I used to make bullets like that. Fine for killing stuff, and okay on paper out to 200 yds, but after that, no so much. As a chicken bullet, they shoot okay.

[rfd]

poppers are made and sold by Paul Huard. Making one is a bit more tricky than you might think.

I don't leave home without mine!

i did try making a patch popper last year, wasn't as good as yers. a proper one is not an easy build. where to contact paul?

[Gunlaker]

I think you can send him a pm on the Shiloh board. His user name is Moezingo if I remember correctly.

Chris.

[rfd]

thanx, chris - i already emailed him.

[Distant Thunder]

why would adding some form of oil to the water of a wiping patch or wiper matter for shot-to-shot fouling control?

black powder residue is readily soluble in plain old water, particularly since that will be addressed within short seconds of firing. why would there be a need for oil as a preservative, rust preventative, or some means of lubing or cooling the bore? after shoot cleanup, absolutely. during the shot process is another story, i'd think.

not saying either process is right or wrong, just looking for reasonable facts for the advantages of a water/oil fouling control over just plain water.

Back many years ago when I first went from blow tubing to wiping my then shooter partner was the one pushing me toward wiping. He was winning all the matches then and I had noticed that so then he said "Here's how I'm doing it." I tended to listen. Like many shooters then he was using the water soluble oil that NAPA sold. Having my shop and machines that used a MOBILE oil I used that. I was shooting grease grooved bullets them mostly and I didn't get wiping to work for me the first couple times I tried it. Eventually I had it working and have since lost all my blow tubes.


That is how I came to add water soluble oil to my water. I continue to do so because it has worked for me and I don't tend to chance the things that work. At a long range match I will run a wet and dry patch down the bore before I fire a shot on my first relay. That gets the bore lubed, and I shouldn't have to explain why some lube in the bore is a good thing with PPBs, and as close to the condition it will be in while I'm shooting my record string, minus the high temperature of course.

When I finish the string I run two or three wet patches thru and one dry. I put my rifle in the case and depending on where we are in the match that rifle may be in the case for a couple hours. Like when I go to the pit for three relays and a line change, then come out and spot one relay before I shoot my next relay. It sits in the case for a while. The oil, I feel, gives me some level of protect against rust not only in the bore, but at the muzzle and any place the water might run or drip when I'm wiping. Like down inside the action and breech block to name a few. Maybe it's nothing to worry about. I do clean and oil the bore and the outside surfaces at the end of the day, but I don't pull the block or get inside. I just feel better knowing I have some oil in the works and not just water mixed with black powder residue, a corrosive combination. Most people probably don't think about it or worry about, I don't have to do either. The rifle will get a thorough cleaning when I get home, but that could be a few days sometimes.

If I were just starting wiping today I would probably do what Brent does, he's winning all the matches for now and I'm just a chaser these days! Often first loser!

Do what works for you, rfd, that's probably best, and I'll do what works for me.

JK1

[rfd]

though i started off a few years back with water/oil patches, these dayze i do use plain water with patches and bore wipers for fouling control only. when it's time to case up and leave the line, i spray water/oil into the chamber and run two sloppy water/oil patches down the tube. that should suffice 'til i'm back at the ranch for a proper cleaning, which, thanx to ppb's, only takes 3 patches tops. but who knows whats really "best", maybe it's all good one way or t'other?