Where do I start?

[Hitman]

OK I am needing to know what powder to start out with?

I am getting the reloader this weekend (hopefully) and I am gonna get this learn-ned.

I will be loading 9mm, .40 S&W for the Glock to start. Starting out with just practice loads but I want reasonable performance. Looking for a good mid grade powder.
I want to be able to start getting some stocked up as I already know it is getting rough to get ahold of powders.

[454PB]

For those two cartridges, I'd recommend Bullseye, Titegroup, or WW 231 (HP38 under the Hodgdon label is the same). All meter very well, are quick burning and don't occupy much of the case, so be careful of double charges.

When you get more experienced and confident, there are slower powders that allow more pressure and velocity.

[Village Idiot]

I want to throw out a word of warning before you begin your venture in reloading. I see you listed Glock as the firearms you’re loading for. I assume the 9 and 40 are both Glocks. Check Glocks website! Glock voids the warranty and all responsibility if shoot reloaded ammo in their guns. Factory ammo is all they recommend. However, that being said, many reload for Glocks successfully. I am currently working with a Glock in 45 ACP myself. I have never loaded for the 40 but do load for 9's. They are a P85, M&P, and a carbine.

First I will discuss Glocks in general. Glock runs polygon rifling. It’s said they are more prone to leading with cast bullets. I can't say if that is true or not, haven't worked with mine enough yet to know. I am dealing with leading in mine however; it’s a bullet problem not the barrel at the moment. The other thing is Glock runs more of the case unsupported in the feed ramp area. If pressure of the ammo is not carefully considered, this area of the case can bulge (looks like a pregnant bulge near the base on one side of the case). Caution -This means the case is close to failure! Though these can be resized and the bulge smoothed back out, this area of the case will be weaker. With repeated reloading, once weakened this area can blow out and (allow/direct) the gasses back into the magazine and trough out the action. There are aftermarket "drop in" barrels you can buy that have standard rifling and better support the case which can remedy these issues. I have never purchased one so can't recommend anything. Others here have and I'm sure they can recommend a good aftermarket barrel. Once you start shooting your reloads inspect the spent brass often for any signs of bulging or high pressure. If you find this stop shooting as you are treading on thin ice. Also, check the barrel often for leading. Lead build up in the throat or barrel will drive pressures up as you shoot and can be dangerous.

The cartridges you name are both higher pressure cartridges with limited case capacity in the semi-auto category. Due to the limited case capacity pressures can spike drastically with little changes such as bullet seating depth, changing manufacturer of cases, primers, or even lots of the same powder. Approach max loads with much caution!!! 9MM is probably the most notorious cartridge for case variation as it has been around for a century and about every country that manufactures ammo has made 9MM. Also there is a civilian market and a military market for this cartridge. Military tend to run the brass thicker which equals “less” internal capacity. The same load (bullet, powder, primer) from one type of case to another can change the working pressure of the round. A load developed for a thinner walled civilian cartridge with more case capacity may drive pressures beyond safe limits if loaded in military brass with thicker walls and less case capacity. Bullet seating is another area to be careful of. In a 9MM a .020 - .030 change in seating depth can drastically affect the working pressure of the round. Tension on the bullet must be another area of attention. If the bullet is not firmly gripped by the case, the bullet can be pushed into the case when feeding with possible terrible consequences.

Reloading has its own set of safety variables to learn, adding cast boolits to that adds another layer of variables you must deal with. Always start with the suggested starting loads listed in reloading manuals and carefully work your way up to a safe load in the velocity range you want. Every gun is it own “one of a kind” mechanical device. Even same model guns by the same manufacturer are different due to manufacturing tolerances. Even if your buddy has the same Glock as you, it does not mean his load will work or be safe in your Glock.

If you belong to a range ask around and see if there are any reloaders there. Politely ask if they could help you get started. Most reloaders I know would be happy to help you get started in a safe manner. Buy a reloading manual, not only for the data they contain but, they contain a good step by step on how to reload safely.

I don’t want to scare you off as this is a great hobby and money saver if you’re an avid shooter. However, this is not sewing where the worst that can happen is you stick yourself with a needle.

Good luck, be safe, and enjoy your new addiction!!!!

Sorry so long winded but just trying to keep you safe.

Village Idiot

[lylejb]

+1 on what V.I. said.

Search for " glocked " brass threads. I know I've read several. It seems the 40 is the worst offender for bulging brass, watch carefully for that. You don't want to have a case web fail, the results are all very bad news.

Second, get a reloading manual (or 2) and read it. Not just the data, but for the how to section. Be clear on what your doing before you start, It will save problems later.

As far as what powder, I agree that win 231 (or hp-38) is a good, versatile, powder. Most handgun calibers can be loaded with it, at least to a mid-power level. However, as V.I. said, each gun is unique. What may work the best, most accuratly, in MY gun may not work the best in YOUR gun. This is where "working up a load" comes in. It requires trial to see what meets your satisfaction.

Welcome aboard.