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Thread: Bedding an injection molded stock?

  1. #21
    Boolit Buddy the_ursus's Avatar
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    So the epoxy that I was refering to is actually used for laminated bows (Smooth-On). It is strong, flexible and doesn't drip so I think it would be good to try. I'll follow up with the results when I know more.

  2. #22
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by the_ursus View Post
    So the epoxy that I was refering to is actually used for laminated bows (Smooth-On). It is strong, flexible and doesn't drip so I think it would be good to try. I'll follow up with the results when I know more.

    You do not want anything "flexible" behind the recoil lug.


    Charlie Sometimes, The steel particles in epoxy's like Devcon and Steel Bed are to make the cured material as hard as steel. You can drill and tap some of them.

    Larry

  3. #23
    Boolit Master



    Charlie Sometimes's Avatar
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    Since the epoxy isnn't steel, then no matter how much you put in, it can't be as hard as steel. You can drill and tap just about anything that is solid enough, but I can't see getting enough steel particles in to the epoxy to make any difference. There must be enough epoxy to effectively bond the materials together or it would compromise the weld.
    Steel particles would be too small to reinforce anything- now it would stiffen the material to make it thicker to stay in place and not run away, IMHO.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check