I have one of the collet style pullers (Hornady).
I have areal problem using impact to disassemble something that is supposed to explode when an impact is placed in the correct spot. Call me crazy...
I have one of the collet style pullers (Hornady).
I have areal problem using impact to disassemble something that is supposed to explode when an impact is placed in the correct spot. Call me crazy...
I have had a Midway for about 10 years, and an old Quinetics I picked up sometime later, and a collet type puller with a complete set of collets.
The Inertial pullers work great for tension seated bullets -- with the right technique. Like another poster, I keep a piece of cotton cleaning patch in the nose to catch the bullet undented.
Any kind of a crimp, though, and you are swimming up the rapids with an Inertial. I might get it out but it could take hours or days. If I can't pull it in 5 minutes, time to get out the collet and accept the damage done.
-HF
purchased mine from Cabelas , their house brand, green. Works fine for me. Have s 12 by 12 by quarter inch flat iron plate on bench to whack. Been going for some years now. maybe ten.
I got my first inertia puller from Quinetics in 1976 or so. After about a half year of use, the head disintegrated as I whacked it against the floor. The cartridge hadn't exploded, the plastic head had simply shattered. I called Quinetics and described what had happened. They sent me a new one. I have used it ever since without any problems except I finally wore out a collet and had to replace it.
I've never been particularly gentle with either of them, but I do realize it is not the ultimate solution for every round that needs demilling or salvaging. .22 caliber centerfires, heavily crimped in military rounds, bullets with evident corrosion and other special cases are done via the collet or press-and-pliers method.
Have used RCBS for most of my 30 years of reloadinf and unreloading mistakes. Only problem I have had, my first one broke and flew across the room while I was using it on the fireplace to pull bullets. Guess I hit it to hard or hit it to many times on the concrete.
That is the type I have. Whoever makes it, makes it for several companies. I think they just change the LOGO and plastic color. Mine is blue and says PAST. It looks just like the green RCBS one. I like mine. Never had a problem. Removing lacquered/glued military bullets from Chinese ammo seemed the most difficult.
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I use a Frankfort Arsenal one (Blue) and it hasn't let me down yet. I actually pulled about 200 rounds of Yugo 7.62X54R heavy ball with it and still going strong. Use it now for cast almost exclusively. I quit using the collets though and now just use the shell holder flipped in the head. Works better and is so much faster! I hold a 12oz. ballpeen in one hand and the puller in the other hand and whack the face of the ballpeen. I tried the wood and no luck. My way seems to work nicely.
You can miss fast & you can miss a lot, but only hits count.
Ditto on the Quinetics. I've had mine 16 years and its had some "hammer", pardon the pun, in that time and is still going strong. I had to replace the "O" ring on the shell holder but that was all.
I use it for boolits/bullets I want to keep unmarked, scrap of foam in the nose helps.
I bray mine on the concrete firestep going in garage.
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Lloyd, those whack-em type pullers never worked very well for me. In fact, I've got an RCBS collet-type puller that I've had for years, and with cast boolets, it doesn't work very well either. The collets tend to grip the boolet, but the lead slides right through, leaving collet marks. I'm with you--the best way is to pull boolets is with a press and vise grips, then remelt and recast your mistakes.
I used to use them smack down pullers.then upgraded to a hornady Collette type love it no mares on bullets.
Don
I've got one second hand thats made by midway. Tough [edit], takes all kinds of abuse.
Last edited by waksupi; 02-06-2010 at 08:19 PM. Reason: language. Quit that.
My RCBS hammer-style puller was bought in the mid-1970's. I probably need to replace the three piece alloy "jaws" but it still works perfectly.
I have zero experience with other makes/types but it sounds as if some are not made very well.
I bought the original impact puller, a wood handle model by "Gunline", in '65. By 2005 the lousy thing broke off at the head, hadn't pulled more than maybe a couple thousand bullets of various types. Gritted my teeth and got a one-piece green one. So far, it's managed to hold together but I've only pulled about 300 or so. Maybe it'll last for a few more. ??
Last edited by 1hole; 02-12-2010 at 09:00 PM.
I've also got a Frankfort Arsenal one, and have unloaded hundreds
of rounds with it with no problem. I had over 400 rounds of 44 mag.
that I got from a guy, and they didn't look right, and I didn't trust them.
All hand loads, and not very well done, so I pulled them all, and reloaded them.
Not one problem unloading them, or any others I have had to pull. Just don't use it like
your driving a spike with a 20oz hammer. Let it do the work.
If this was a problem the lawyers would have shut them off years ago.I have a real problem using impact to disassemble something that is supposed to explode when an impact is placed in the correct spot. Call me crazy...
Geez...I've had an old RCBS hammer style for over 20 yrs...replaced the 'o' ring twice but it's never failed me...'cept once on some '44 vintage M2 Ball. Rodfac
I broke 2 Quinetics on rifle cartridges by hitting on the basement concrete floor!
Bought an RCBS and never had another problem for a long time. Not often that you need one actually.
When I say hitting on the basement floor, that is a "GREAT" place to perform the task as Bill said. I don't want anyone to get the idea that the basement floor (concrete) had an adverse effect.
The adverse effect was the Quinetics, they sucked!!!!!
Last edited by Changeling; 02-19-2010 at 05:07 PM.
My really old Quinetics is still going strong. It's all in the grip. You don't drive spikes, you swing and let the momentum finish the job with a lite grip. I use a 5 lb block of Linotype to strike it on. I think a 10 lb piece would be even better.
They work fine for me (RCBS rifle & refolver), I did have one that cracked up so to speak when I first got it, but RCBS replaced it and all is well, but I have been using them for only about 12 years.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |