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Thread: Cast Bullet weight

  1. #21
    Boolit Mold ga_red_rider's Avatar
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    Allright I'll see to it that my molds are hotter when I cast more in a few days

  2. #22
    Boolit Master
    RobS's Avatar
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    yepper, alloy/mold is too cool. Either pickup the casting pace you are currently at or adjust the alloy temp to a hotter setting. Another possibility is to pick up the casting pace and cast with a higher temperature. If you do not have a thermometer you may want to invest in one as it gives a caster a no guess method to casting.

  3. #23
    Boolit Master 243winxb's Avatar
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    Diameter is more Important then Weight

    More Heat. When the bullet is on the heavy side, its OK. Just adjust your maximum powder charge a little lower.
    I didnt get a change to measure diameter last night
    Measure a few bullets as soon as they are cool. Each pot of alloy can be different if alloy is unknow. This way you dont cast 100's of bullets that are UnderSized. Add linotype to make larger and harder bullets. From Rotometals -
    Basic Rules for Harding Lead-

    For every 1% additional tin, Brinell hardness increases 0.3.
    For every 1% additional antimony, Brinell hardness increases 0.9.
    For a simple equation,
    Brinell = 8.60 + ( 0.29 * Tin ) + ( 0.92 * Antimony )
    Last edited by 243winxb; 01-29-2010 at 10:21 AM. Reason: add title +

  4. #24
    Boolit Mold
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    Those look like good fodder for your next cast. More heat.
    When I first started I would let my pot run out when I cast. Later I found it better to fill it before I shut it down. Easier to start up next time.
    Boy, a picture is helpful Great Job
    Handloading since 1984. Casting since 1990. 32mag, .380, 9mm, .40sw,.44mag, .45acp, .223rem, .243win, 7mmMag .308win

  5. #25
    Boolit Mold ga_red_rider's Avatar
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    Actually the lead i used was in ingot form. Missouri lead? I think it is pure. I got 130lb's of wheel weights and am currently casting usable ingots they cools to a frosted gray color and appears harder than the ingots I have. I'll cast a few bullets and see what I
    get.

  6. #26
    Boolit Mold ga_red_rider's Avatar
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    Well I've been casting now for 10 months and smelted many pots of Wheel weights into shiny ingots to make more boolits. I've run 38spl and 45acp straight from the mold after size and lube with great results. Also water dropped and loaded some too all worked well. Added some Linotype lead to the pot for a little harder bullet and a very nice shine to the finished product.
    Next purchase is a Shooting Chrony to know boolit velocity to fine tune my loads
    Only regret I have about all this is not doing it 10 years ago! You've all been very helpful and informative and I've made few friends here as well. Thank you all and I'll see you in chat!

  7. #27
    Boolit Mold ga_red_rider's Avatar
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    Over the last year or so i have completely satisfied with the many bullets I've cast. I have used your advise and thank you all for it too. Only a fella who casts truly makes him own ammo and I have joined that group with good results. Thanks All!!

  8. #28
    Boolit Grand Master

    MtGun44's Avatar
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    If you had straight lead, you need to add about 50% wwt alloy to that to improve casting
    and make them stand up to inserting into the case and feeding without excessive
    distortion. You can (and I have) use near pure Pb, but 50-50 is a better choice for getting
    good fill out. And pure needs to be cast a good bit hotter than wwt alloy.

    As to why to wait a few days - lead alloys, like aluminum alloys will age harden over time,
    totally unlike iron alloys which harden instantly when quenched. Pb alloys with antimony will
    harden with age, more if quenched quickly, but just after quenching they are not hard, the
    crystal structure takes time to change - precipitation hardening.

    If you are going to get serious about this game, a real micrometer that is marked to .0001"
    will be necessary. Check out Enco Tools, look at Fowler mics, they often have one for well
    under $35. Dial calipers are really only accurate to +/-.001 or .002", not good enough for
    real serious boolit fitting work.

    Bill
    If it was easy, anybody could do it.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check