Probable stoopid question, but here goes...

[Wayne Smith]

I got my first set of NEI molds the other day, a set for my .41 Colt. Beautiful boolet they cast, too.

But, the only way I could figure out to put them on the large Lyman handles I have ends up with them essentially backwards. With this orientation I have to be left handed (I'm not) to pour both cavities, or the ladel messes up with the sprue plate nut.

What am I missing???

[oksmle]

Wayne Smith .... All my NEI molds are made for RCBS handles. I've never tried them on Lyman...

oksmle

[carpetman]

Wayne Smith---molds are set up for left handed--I'm not--what am I missing? Being ambidextrous.

[44man]

I use Lyman handles on RCBS molds by drilling another set of holes in the handles. You might want to try this. Not having an NEI mold, I can't really say. Don't worry too much about altering handles as long as they still fit the other mold they were made for. I have drilled, ground and filed on them and they still work OK.

[Buckshot]

Wayne Smith---molds are set up for left handed--I'm not--what am I missing? Being ambidextrous.

...........Carpetman, I'm missing that too. Possibly shot off in the war. Can you help?

............Buckshot

[Wayne Smith]

This mold (I can't speak for other NEI molds, but assume they are alike) does not use through screws to mount on handles. The screws do not go through the Lyman holes, but clamp the mold to the blocks. The block is threaded for the screws.

Should I get a set of RCBS handles?

[stocker]

Wayne: Most moulds use a long pin which goes under the set screws. The pins go throught the holes in the handles and extend into the top and bottom halves of the blocks. Is it possible you are missing the pins? I have no NEI molds either but set screws alone doesn't sound quite right as the blocks need to have a bit of play in them to aid opening and closing. Perhaps they are different than what I'm used to seeing.

[44man]

stocker is correct, you are missing the pins. Handles are NEVER held tight to the blocks. If the holes in the blocks do not line up with the holes in the handles, drill more holes in the handles. Just don't cut into the holes that are in the handles now. And make some pins to fit.

[stocker]

Wayne: If you can't find a ready source for the pins you can usually make a pair by buying a couple of small twist drills of the right diameter and cutting the pins from the shank ends of the drills. Saves waiting for delivery.

[Greg5278]

Twist drills will work, but is an expensive option.Just use a piece of welding rod, or rod stock from the hardware store. Plus drills have to be sheared, they won't cut with a saw, just a chop wheel. Greg

[StarMetal]

Drill bits can be cut with the Dremel cutoff wheel, which every good gun hobbyist should have.

Joe

[Willbird]

Or to grind off round steel one can just hit it on the bench grinder and grind a groove in it like a beaver does a tree, then snap it off, grind flat. This will work on glass hard steel and carbide both, as well as soft steel.

Most twist drills can lose one pin off the back of them and still be used too

Bill

[stocker]

Willbird has the right idea. I find small drills cheaper to buy (China made at a surplus store) than the pins would be. I think last time I ordered some decapping pins for my dies they added a $5.00 shipping and handling fee. The two drills I recently bought for mold pins were 39 cents each and they are really a crappy drill. But they make good pins. I grind a nick where I want them to break and slip the bit into two 4 inch pieces of brake tubing and line up the ends of the tubing with the grinder mark. Quick bend and snap and you have a pin waiting to have the end ground to a decent contour. Whatever works for you.