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Thread: Noe 311284 mold not separating

  1. #1
    Boolit Mold
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    May 2008
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    Noe 311284 mold not separating

    I am actually a virgin caster and haven't done it yet but have been on this forum for months now and have collected about 100 lbs of WW, 4 lbs of tin from rotometals, three molds and all the casting equipment needed... sorry for the long intro,
    Question, I got in on the group buy for the 311284 and purchased the Lee 6 banger mold handles. When I put them together I noticed that the mold would go together perfect but when I would try to open it the back pin (closest to me) catches and the mold will not come open. Now I did not put exessive force into it as I hear molds can be damaged by dropping etc. I thought seasoning might do something so last night. (molds only, they were not on the handles) by bringing the mold up to 375 F four times. Put them back on the handles this morning and the same thing happens. If I rest the LEFT mold on something when trying to open it comes right apart... Is this normal? Do I need to measure the pins as maybe the back one is too far out?

    Thanks,

  2. #2
    Boolit Master in Heaven's Range
    madcaster's Avatar
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    Sir,begin with casting with any gang moulds by filling the cavities fartherest away from the handle hinge pin and proceeding by adding one cavity each other pouring.This is a good ideal with aluminium moulds,especially Lee,as it tends to not want to seperate if the blocks are not up to temperature.
    By doing one,then two,etc.,you will bring the mould up to temperature and not damage the mould.
    And,if you decide to sell this mould please give me a shot at it!
    The .30/06 Springfield,the ULTIMATE cartridge combat,hunting and target cartridge,a .45 single action and a good FLINTLOCK is all I need to be happy!

  3. #3
    Boolit Buddy
    280Ackley's Avatar
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    I had the same problem with my first NOE gang mold. Swede told me to put some Bullplate lube on the pins and the problem went away right now. Give it try Bullplate=good stuff

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
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    Nov 2008
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    Mokane, MO, USA
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    Your fine, both of mine did this. Like 280Ackley said, a little Bullplate solves the problem. Just keep it properly lubricated. Billy
    Lyman 22596,225107,225353,225438,225415,225450,225646, 225462,228367,244203,245496,245497,245498,245499 RCBS 22-55-SP,22-55-FP,243-95-SP,243-100-FP, NEI 100244GC-#14, 55 224 GC-#4,225 45-#3 PB, NOE 22-055 SP,MX2-243,Saeco 221 & 243, RD TLC225-50-RF,Lee 22 Bator 6c & 2c HP. Love casting small boolits, let me know if you have one that I don't that you would part with!

  5. #5
    Boolit Mold
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    Thanks guys I haven't lubbed yet, I should have thought of that before I got worried.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by blackthunder View Post
    Thanks guys I haven't lubbed yet, I should have thought of that before I got worried.
    Don't forget to lube the sprue plate and its screw also. A drop on the handle hinge pin works great to.

    Larry

  7. #7
    Made in U.S.A.
    SwedeNelson's Avatar
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    blackthunder

    All good advise.
    If you have any more problems get with me
    and we will get them worked out.

    Swede Nelson
    The expectation of evil is more bitter than the suffering -OR-
    More people die from worrying about getting ate by a bear then get ate by a bear.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check