That scanner trick works real well!
I'm thinking that in a revolver a crimp would be mandatory to prevent boolit movement. Does a crimp necessarily cause a problem with patches?
That scanner trick works real well!
I'm thinking that in a revolver a crimp would be mandatory to prevent boolit movement. Does a crimp necessarily cause a problem with patches?
Rest In Peace My Son (01/06/1986 - 14/01/2014)
''Assume everything that moves is a human before identifying as otherwise''
I guess its a tight rope walk between too hard a crimp and just enough for holding the boolit in place. With the paper and semi dirty cases, I had a pretty fair resistance seating the boolits. Maybe Monday will be the day of truth.
Melting Stuff is FUN!Sent from my PC with a keyboard and camera on it with internet too.
Shooting stuff is even funner
L W Knight
lw,
That is a better lookin boolit than any in a store.
Thanks, Ekalb
I finally got my chance to test my patched 44mag in a Ruger SBH. I got a 3" group at 25 yards. not great but, it is the best that pistol had done with me at the wheel. These were medium loads.
I tested the full house loads in a SRH and got about the same results. The best part is , no barrel scrubbing.
All in all, accuracy was probably better than I was. Although I did get a lot of confetti, I could not prove wether or not all the paper actually came off the alox treated paper wrapped boolits. I found no reason to treat the paper anyway.
When the weather gets more friendly I will do some more water barrel testing on the soft boolits since the dirt test looked promising. It will be really good if I actually get a soft lead boolit to expand like a SJSP or even better HP.
I will keep working on this till I think I know what I'm doing. Only more testing will prove out the whole idea.
Melting Stuff is FUN!Sent from my PC with a keyboard and camera on it with internet too.
Shooting stuff is even funner
L W Knight
I have been thinking about PP'ing for my Ruger SBH and BH in .45 LC for the last couple months but wasn't sure how to go about it. I have been practicing wrapping paper around bullets but am not really sure what angle I should be cutting the ends of the patch. I have been using just regular copy/printer paper. Is this paper acceptable for paper patching .44 mag and .45LC.? I will be keeping an eye on this post so can you let us/me know how this is going for you?
I was also thinking about doing a little paper patching for my .45ACP. Not that it really needs it or would benefit from it, but just doing it for fun. Is there any danger of high pressure caused by paper patching with any of the above calibers? Thanks.
Jody
Everything that I can think of to say is in this thread already.
My brother has a 41mag rifle and I want to play with it too. Since I don't have a 41mag, I have to talk him into buying some molds LOL
Melting Stuff is FUN!Sent from my PC with a keyboard and camera on it with internet too.
Shooting stuff is even funner
L W Knight
I do not see the ACP as fun, but what can I say.
With the patch angles, I make mine 45*. I want them to end up on top of each other. When I do a patch for the first time, I do it under pressure. I then see how the ends line up. I don't take the first wrap as a factor. I do a bunch, then see how they compare before I make cuts on my template.
I do the smaller calibers here, so that is all I can do to help. I do know, patching is the way.
Anything that is an uxcuse to go out to the reloading shack while the wife watches " Don't you wish you could dance" or something like that is FUN!
Melting Stuff is FUN!Sent from my PC with a keyboard and camera on it with internet too.
Shooting stuff is even funner
L W Knight
Thanks for the reply. I was just hoping that if you try any different loads or types of paper or bullets that maybe you would keep us posted. I am really kind of lost when it comes to this technique and any info would be helpful, especially when it comes to paper patching for handguns. Thanks again.
Jody
You may very well be right about that!! I will start out with the .44 mag and .45LC and see how they do first. It really isn't a matter of needing to paper patch for any of my handguns, I just find this topic very interesting and would like to give it a try. I do get a little leading in my Ruger SBH and BH but it is not enough to cause a problem, although it would be nice to not have any leading at all!! Eventually I want to purchase a .45-70 and thought that until I have the funds to purchase one that I could practice with the .44 mag and .45LC. that way when I do get the .45-70 I will at least have some expierence with paper patching. Thanks for the reply and any advice is most appreciated.Originally Posted by docone31
Jody
Most people do use printer paper. They have custom molds or sizers. All I have are standard stuff so I had to try a thinner paper. I was able to patch up from .429 to .435 and get it through a .429 sizer and it came out at .4315. Stranger things are happening I guess but, it worked out great.
I know very little about this craft. Like I just got interested and thought that it might be fun so I just got some different papers and started rolling boolits. Eventually I got pretty good at getting the paper straight and located where I wanted it.
Melting Stuff is FUN!Sent from my PC with a keyboard and camera on it with internet too.
Shooting stuff is even funner
L W Knight
This is a most useful thread. I experimented with paper patch bullets some thirty years ago, after finding an article on the subject in the American Rifleman. As with a lot of things as we get older, we "forget" some of the lessons we learned in our youths. As some one mentioned, this is something that is pretty simple, and sometimes we tend to make the simple things a bit more complicated than they need to be. The paper patches on bullets are a lot like the cloth patch on a round ball in a muzzle loading rifle, the patch is what takes the rifling and imparts spin to the ball. The patch and the ball part company shortly after the ball leaves the muzzle, a paper patch should do the same thing. Which begs the question, how important are the absolute dimensions of the patch?
Thanks to this post and the other related ones, I have gotten back to paper patching bullets. There are a lot of different grades of paper that will produce the desired result. Currently I have been using parchment paper, which is relatively thin, but very tough, it is a high temperature paper used in cooking.
My patches are dry, cut to a width that covers all of the driving bands on my 358429 bullet, with enough "overhang" to fold over and completely cover the base of the bullet. They are then sized through my .358 sizer die, and when sized are on the average of .3586. My alloy is nearly straight lead. Accuracy is very good and there is no leading.
I thank everyone for their input, again a most useful thread and it is good to revisit old skills.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |