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Thread: Milk Jug 300 Yard 6.5 Swede

  1. #41
    Boolit Grand Master


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    Quote Originally Posted by StarMetal View Post
    Scot,

    Which bullet and caliber you shooting that has a BC of .350? I was told by 45 2.1 when I was shooting this before at that distance not to hold over so much. He was right. I've done this same thing with my AR15 in 6.5 Grendel too. Except with the Grendel I was shooting five shot groups. It was grouping 1.5 inches at 300 yards with that Saeco 140 grain bore rider. That bullet has a lot higher BC. Too bad the Swede is picky on bullet diameter and that it has that loooong throat or I'd try that Saeco bullet. It's a very accurate bullet.

    Joe
    I am taking a guess at a .350 BC for the 6.5 Kurtz YOU are shooting at 2300 fps, that's why I said determine amount of drop from 100-300 and use that to calculate BC for the Kurtz.
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  2. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by swheeler View Post
    I am taking a guess at a .350 BC for the 6.5 Kurtz YOU are shooting at 2300 fps, that's why I said determine amount of drop from 100-300 and use that to calculate BC for the Kurtz.
    Scot,

    I'm just going to shoot across the chrono at 300 yards. My rifle shoots plenty good enough to do that. Then we'll find out.

    Joe

  3. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by StarMetal View Post
    Jim,

    That's a mighty fine looking rifle. I'd recommend BaBore's remake of the Lyman 266469. Don't buy a new Lyman mold because they are undersized. That Swede needs a .268 bullet..that's the sized size. To squeeze out the last ounce of accuracy you'll have to use reformed 06 cases. Couple things you'll have to do if you use 06 brass...first I'm talking military...not commercial. Try to use LC or WRA 53 brass. You'll have to length trim them and neck turn them. What you are after are those thick necks to better center the bullet with the bore. Make sure to leave at least, at least, .001 expansion. Now here's the other tip for the brass. Rather then shoot them over and over to get the web to swell out uniformly to center the rear of the case do this. Cut a strip of Scotch Tape about 1/8 wide and about 5 inches long. Now warp that strip of tape around the web right in front of the extractor groove. In fact I align the one edge of my tape with that body/groove edge. You may have to adjust your tape length depending on how fat the rear of your chamber is. Put the tape on after you have reloaded the brass. Now to use you have to be careful to feed them into the chamber without scuffing the tape off. To do that remove your bolt, slide the cartridge rim up under the extractor onto the bolt face. Now while holding the bolt release lever fully open slide the assembly into the rifle being careful of the magazine floor plate. What I do when fireforming these the first time is remove the magazine guts. Then ram home and shoot. Jim this sounds like a lot of work, but honestly it's not too bad. Couple more things. After firing just lighty anneal the necks and shoulders. The other thing I should have mentioned in case prep and that is make an expander ball that's about .002 smaller then your sized .268 bullet.

    Have fun Jim.

    Joe
    Thanks Joe, I have to look at his boolit. Babore makes the best molds going.
    I made a lot of 6.5 brass from 06 new cases when I could not buy the brass. I annealed, formed, trimmed, turned and reamed them, then annealed the necks again.
    Trouble was after sitting loaded for a year or so, all the necks split. Not from shooting, just in the MTM box.
    I started with a .250 die before going to the 6.5 die.
    Have you had any trouble with split cases?

  4. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by 44man View Post
    Thanks Joe, I have to look at his boolit. Babore makes the best molds going.
    I made a lot of 6.5 brass from 06 new cases when I could not buy the brass. I annealed, formed, trimmed, turned and reamed them, then annealed the necks again.
    Trouble was after sitting loaded for a year or so, all the necks split. Not from shooting, just in the MTM box.
    I started with a .250 die before going to the 6.5 die.
    Have you had any trouble with split cases?
    Jim,

    You end up with necks only slightly thicker then factory 6.5 brass using commercial 06. A step in the right direction, but not as good as the military.

    When you size form them and neck turn them is what work hardens the necks. Like I mentioned shoot them that first time and then give them a light annealing.

    Joe

  5. #45
    Boolit Grand Master In Remembrance
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    I cast no dispersions about anyone's targets but, I witnessed a shooter using a scoped 6.5 x 284 Winchester rifle hit an egg (dead center) at ... 1000yds on the 3rd pull of the trigger with gusting winds of 21mph! The 1st two shots were within inches of the egg. Then I tried with my iron sight 7.5x55 and best I could do was about 3 feet. Hats off to the 6.5 caliber!
    Regards
    John

  6. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Boy View Post
    I cast no dispersions about anyone's targets but, I witnessed a shooter using a scoped 6.5 x 284 Winchester rifle hit an egg (dead center) at ... 1000yds on the 3rd pull of the trigger with gusting winds of 21mph! The 1st two shots were within inches of the egg. Then I tried with my iron sight 7.5x55 and best I could do was about 3 feet. Hats off to the 6.5 caliber!
    John,

    Those 6.5-284 are real long distance shooters. 6.5 bullets have a very high BC too which helps lots.

    Joe

  7. #47
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    That Mill.dot (mill radiant) spelling--is set to function at ten power. From center cross hair to
    the next dot upper or lower should be close to 3.5 inches at 100 yards.
    So with a dead on hold zeroed at 100 yards the bullet dropped 10.5".
    Does that sound correct?
    Mill dots are fun and great for getting the correct distance if you know how to use them,
    I love my Ziese 2.5-10x50.

    GW.

  8. #48
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    Thumbs up

    Quote Originally Posted by StarMetal View Post
    Scot,

    I'm just going to shoot across the chrono at 300 yards. My rifle shoots plenty good enough to do that. Then we'll find out.

    Joe
    That'll work just fine. Let us know how fast it is still moving, like someone here says "there are no flys, on the 6.5's"
    Charter Member #148

  9. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by gray wolf View Post
    That Mill.dot (mill radiant) spelling--is set to function at ten power. From center cross hair to
    the next dot upper or lower should be close to 3.5 inches at 100 yards.
    So with a dead on hold zeroed at 100 yards the bullet dropped 10.5".
    Does that sound correct?
    Mill dots are fun and great for getting the correct distance if you know how to use them,
    I love my Ziese 2.5-10x50.

    GW.
    I was dead on center bull at 100. Using the first lower mil dot I struck approximately 2.0 inches high at 300 yards.

    Joe

  10. #50
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    "To squeeze out the last ounce of accuracy you'll have to use reformed 06 cases. "


    Is the above a must? or can I use the Lapua 6.5 brass?

    I have C. G. 1906 that is short throated enough that I can use the Saeco 264 and touch the lands. I think I might try this high speed stuff.
    Calamity Jake

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    Shoot straight, keepem in the ten ring.

  11. #51
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    StarMetal,
    where did you find 30.06 military brass? Unless I'm missing something, our military hasn't used the 06 since Veitnam! Is somebody else using it, or did you find an old stock somewhere, or have you had it for 30 some years?
    Also, why do the 06 cases work better for the swede? I've never fire formed, and I'm new to the caliber. I've always heard that this was a very accurate round.

  12. #52
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    I think it was a good shot for a high velocity load in a Swede.

  13. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by Uncle R. View Post
    I think it was a good shot for a high velocity load in a Swede.
    Thanks Uncle R, but I really don't think it was that great. I honestly believe I could hit that jug with many of my other military rifles and I know I can hit it with a couple of my 45 Colt revolver. We know 44man could nail that jug. Went one gets those Swedes shooting they are like sniper rifles.

    Joe

  14. #54
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    It was a great shot, but I'm lokking at a 6.5 Swede loaded round next to a .270 loaded shell.
    The very end of the 6.5 neck only comes to the base of the neck/ beginning of the shoulder.
    That's about a 1/4 inch difference. I don't have an 06, so I'm basing the comparrison on a .270. Unless I've got it confussed, the .270 is based on the .06 case, right? (be nice to me if I'm wrong)

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    Quote Originally Posted by rummy64 View Post
    It was a great shot, but I'm lokking at a 6.5 Swede loaded round next to a .270 loaded shell.
    The very end of the 6.5 neck only comes to the base of the neck/ beginning of the shoulder.
    That's about a 1/4 inch difference. I don't have an 06, so I'm basing the comparrison on a .270. Unless I've got it confussed, the .270 is based on the .06 case, right? (be nice to me if I'm wrong)

    rummy,

    Yes the 270 is among one of the first 06 off springs. Came along around 1925. Many don't realize it's that old. Fine cartridge. For me when a cartridge gets up around 06 capacity I don't like them for cast work. Too much powder space. Jacketed wise they are great. I'll tell you another cartridge just about as great as the Swede and that is the 6.5x54 Mannlicher Schoenaur. It too has it's share of fame including big game hunting in Africa and also as a military round.

    Joe

  16. #56
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    Joe (I can call you Joe, right?)
    It just seems like a long way to push that 06 shoulder down. You guys know your stuff, and I'm sure it can be done. As I mentioned, I don't have any experience with reforming cases.
    But what is it with the Swede brass, that the reformed brass works better for accuracy?

  17. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by rummy64 View Post
    Joe (I can call you Joe, right?)
    It just seems like a long way to push that 06 shoulder down. You guys know your stuff, and I'm sure it can be done. As I mentioned, I don't have any experience with reforming cases.
    But what is it with the Swede brass, that the reformed brass works better for accuracy?
    Rummy,

    I explained it in the post to 44man in this same thread. The Swede has a very generous neck portion of the chamber. The body section of the chamber can be overcome by neck sizing only. Then the case fits the chamber like a glove except for the neck. The case neck must be smaller then the chamber or it can't release the bullet which can cause very high pressures. With the military 06 brass you get a thicker neck and with the right military brass, too thick of a neck. Then you must neck trim it down to a size that is at the minimum .001 inch smaller then the chamber neck area. With good reloading dies and the thicker necks trimmed to the right thickness, in conjunction with the neck sizing....give you the optimum centering of the bullet in the bore. It's very important to start the bullet into the bore as straight as possible. You can see what can happen if the bullet is started crooked. I've taken loads that shot very small groups with my prepared military 06 brass and shot them in commercial brass...same exact powder charge, same bullet, primer, etc.. The always shot much larger groups. My 6.5x54 Mannlicher Schoenaur is another rifle that requires the same treatment. With more modern rifles you can often get away with commercial brass because the neck area of the chamber isn't as larger as some of these old military rifles.

    Joe

  18. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by StarMetal View Post
    Too bad the Swede is picky on bullet diameter and that it has that loooong throat or I'd try that Saeco bullet. It's a very accurate bullet. Joe

    The Swedes were chambered for military use...... they used a 156 gr. RN jacketed bullet. The throat was for that bullet, with deep rifling with some relief, just as several other governments did in that time period. You go with whats given in this caliber and make allowances for it.

    Almost everything has been posted on how to make this run, if you take the time to read my back posts on accuracy and the 6.5 Swede. The part that hasn't been is about the use of FILLER. Nothing will be posted about that other than what all the reloading manuals say about fillers, "use filler only as directed". If you go thru the old posts here you won't find too much said about fillers, except those used in low velocity loads. Nothing much is posted about high velocity use. That is an area where you can goof up very easily. If any "expert" here wants to post on how to use various fillers for high velocity use and assume responsibility for his actions, then please do so. I don't think you'll see that though.

  19. #59
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    Thumbs up

    Joe,
    Sorry it took so long to get back. I had to run last nite before you replied.
    I've got it now! I had no idea that there was so much room in the chamber of these gun. The Swedes took a great deal of pride in these guns. And of my military guns, this one seems the best made. I knew that the actions had to be sloppy in military guns to allow them to work in sand, mud, etc.
    My particular gun is a husky that's been sporterized. They did a pretty nice job on it.
    And by the way, it shot pretty well yesterday. Unfortunately (as I suspected) the old Tasco scope on it was junk! Some how the gun grouped, but I couldn't get the thing to focus. So instead of a nice round circle, I was shooting at a blob on the paper. Needless to say, after I'm done licking my wounds from x-mas, I'll be scope shoping.
    Your tricks for this load aren't anything I'm ready to try(yet). But I apreciate you posting them, as I'm finding it pretty fascinating to learn about this stuff!

  20. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by rummy64 View Post
    Joe,
    Sorry it took so long to get back. I had to run last nite before you replied.
    I've got it now! I had no idea that there was so much room in the chamber of these gun. The Swedes took a great deal of pride in these guns. And of my military guns, this one seems the best made. I knew that the actions had to be sloppy in military guns to allow them to work in sand, mud, etc.
    My particular gun is a husky that's been sporterized. They did a pretty nice job on it.
    And by the way, it shot pretty well yesterday. Unfortunately (as I suspected) the old Tasco scope on it was junk! Some how the gun grouped, but I couldn't get the thing to focus. So instead of a nice round circle, I was shooting at a blob on the paper. Needless to say, after I'm done licking my wounds from x-mas, I'll be scope shoping.
    Your tricks for this load aren't anything I'm ready to try(yet). But I apreciate you posting them, as I'm finding it pretty fascinating to learn about this stuff!
    Well it's not that the Swedes are sloppy, they aren't. I think the actions are pretty tight for a military. The chambers aren't all that huge or sloppy, it's just that the neck area is, let's say, a little generous.

    I'd like to see you get a new scope on that rifle. Sounds like you can get it shooting.

    Joe

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BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
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