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Thread: Milk Jug 300 Yard 6.5 Swede

  1. #21
    Boolit Master
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    Good shooting---years ago I used my .444 Marlin at 350 Yards using a 4X Weaver scope on an innocent water filled one gallon milk jug--I head it dead center with the 240 JHP bullet (I was not inspired yet to use cast with it)..I hit the jug dead center and it was a spectacular explosion...nothing much left--I still feel guilty what I did to that innocent milk jug.

  2. #22
    Boolit Buddy Jaybird62's Avatar
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    I'm surprised that everyone is dancing around the "real" issue here: The TWRA hasn't opened a season on milk jugs.

  3. #23
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jaybird62 View Post
    I'm surprised that everyone is dancing around the "real" issue here: The TWRA hasn't opened a season on milk jugs.
    A little illegal huntin' goin' on here, huh? Shameful, absolutely shameful.

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by StarMetal View Post
    My my, the 6.5 Swede is such a touchy subject here.

    Joe
    It is a touchy subject with me!
    My 1919 Swede has a pitted bore even with the take off barrel I put on it. It shoots bullets into 1/2" at 100 but I don't want to try cast in it. How I wish I had a smooth bore.
    How a pitted barrel can shoot so good baffles me.
    What do you think Joe, would it work with cast?

  5. #25
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    I had a special permit for jug hunting. Took me years to get it.

    As for the shot, Mr Banks asked me to say whether I thought it was a good one or not. Actually the purpose of my post wasn't the shot. It was how flat and how much energy that really not good BC Kurtz 6.5 bullet had at 300 yards. As for the shot...heck probably all of you could have done that easy. I didn't mention I had a black bullseye on the jug and my shot was at the outer 1 o'clock position edge or that bull. That's what I was happy about that the first mil dot down under the regular crosshair put rifle pretty much on target without having to dial anything in.

    Well I have to get that jug to the taxidermist.

    Joe

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by 44man View Post
    It is a touchy subject with me!
    My 1919 Swede has a pitted bore even with the take off barrel I put on it. It shoots bullets into 1/2" at 100 but I don't want to try cast in it. How I wish I had a smooth bore.
    How a pitted barrel can shoot so good baffles me.
    What do you think Joe, would it work with cast?
    Jim,

    I've had more then one military rifle that had some bad looking bores that shot surprisingly well. To me the fun is in shooting it, to see what it will do. If it doesn't shoot with everything tried, relegate to those 1/2 inch groups you shoot with jacketed. By the way that's pretty good too.

    Joe

  7. #27
    Boolit Mold
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    Wow! this is so ironic! I 'm getting ready to go shoot a 6.5 Swede that I just picked up.
    I honestly had no idea there were heated debates on the Swede! This board just keeps getting better!
    Starmetal looks like you hit a nerve with quite a few people! I haven't been here long enough to know the history, but I'm sure if I stick around, it will come out.
    I for one would be interested in knowing anything I can find out about loading the Swede.
    I have long been impressed with the caliber, and now I finally own one.

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by rummy64 View Post
    Wow! this is so ironic! I 'm getting ready to go shoot a 6.5 Swede that I just picked up.
    I honestly had no idea there were heated debates on the Swede! This board just keeps getting better!
    Starmetal looks like you hit a nerve with quite a few people! I haven't been here long enough to know the history, but I'm sure if I stick around, it will come out.
    I for one would be interested in knowing anything I can find out about loading the Swede.
    I have long been impressed with the caliber, and now I finally own one.
    rummy,

    All I can say is make sure you have a milk jug permit. I'm getting hounded about that pretty good.

    Joe

  9. #29
    Boolit Mold
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    Well, I quit shooting milk jugs a long time ago! Hated having to dispose of the bodies. I'm pretty sure they're still open season here.

  10. #30
    Boolit Buddy
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    6.5 cast boolit secret

    StarMetal: If you and .45 2.1 have discovered a reloading method of shooting relatively soft cast boolits at higher velocities with great accuracy from a 6.5 Swede (and perhaps other calibers), why keep dangling the information like a carrot in front of a donkey. If I am not mistaken, this forum's purpose is to share knowledge and technology re: cast boolits. Please....just post the "secret" and let those on this forum form their own opinions as to the feasibility of the info.

    Trifocals
    NRA life member

    "Never give in except to convictions of honor and good."
    Winston Churchill

  11. #31
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    OK, Joe, I don't hunt with a rifle and haven't for a long time. Revolvers tug me into the woods.
    But I might as well put the Swede to use. What would be my best choice of boolit to buy a mold for or to make?
    Here is what the old girl looks like. The cherry came out of my woods, slabbed with a chainsaw.
    Last edited by 44man; 01-05-2010 at 10:00 AM.

  12. #32
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    The other end.
    Last edited by 44man; 01-05-2010 at 10:00 AM.

  13. #33
    Boolit Master

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    I make it a point to know all I can about anything concerning 6.5x55 and/or the Swedish Mauser.

    I've also [tired] of wading through the several message threads previous in this forum on this subject and witnessed the [extremely] contentious interaction, to the point of it being seen as highly dysfunctional behavior. As yet, I've not seen any technique described anywhere. Are there links to this previous discourse?

    From this tap dancing act I could ascertain the reason for the subterfuge may lie in loading practice outside the norm, or considered unsafe. But, of course, this is just speculation based on no information shared.

    Dutch

  14. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by 44man View Post
    The other end.
    Jim,

    That's a mighty fine looking rifle. I'd recommend BaBore's remake of the Lyman 266469. Don't buy a new Lyman mold because they are undersized. That Swede needs a .268 bullet..that's the sized size. To squeeze out the last ounce of accuracy you'll have to use reformed 06 cases. Couple things you'll have to do if you use 06 brass...first I'm talking military...not commercial. Try to use LC or WRA 53 brass. You'll have to length trim them and neck turn them. What you are after are those thick necks to better center the bullet with the bore. Make sure to leave at least, at least, .001 expansion. Now here's the other tip for the brass. Rather then shoot them over and over to get the web to swell out uniformly to center the rear of the case do this. Cut a strip of Scotch Tape about 1/8 wide and about 5 inches long. Now warp that strip of tape around the web right in front of the extractor groove. In fact I align the one edge of my tape with that body/groove edge. You may have to adjust your tape length depending on how fat the rear of your chamber is. Put the tape on after you have reloaded the brass. Now to use you have to be careful to feed them into the chamber without scuffing the tape off. To do that remove your bolt, slide the cartridge rim up under the extractor onto the bolt face. Now while holding the bolt release lever fully open slide the assembly into the rifle being careful of the magazine floor plate. What I do when fireforming these the first time is remove the magazine guts. Then ram home and shoot. Jim this sounds like a lot of work, but honestly it's not too bad. Couple more things. After firing just lighty anneal the necks and shoulders. The other thing I should have mentioned in case prep and that is make an expander ball that's about .002 smaller then your sized .268 bullet.

    Have fun Jim.

    Joe

  15. #35
    Boolit Master semtav's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 44man View Post
    How a pitted barrel can shoot so good baffles me.
    I hope they all do 44.
    I just got my 30-06 back from my brother and it is pretty rusty. sure the barrel is pitted.
    Last edited by semtav; 12-26-2009 at 01:38 PM.

  16. #36
    Boolit Master
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    Joe what power setting was the scope on?10X
    Hell, I was there!

  17. #37
    Boolit Master
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    StarMetal,
    How is your rifle set up? I have a Swede that I had set up with a scope and the bolt turned, other than that it is in military dress.

    Dave

  18. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by beemer View Post
    StarMetal,
    How is your rifle set up? I have a Swede that I had set up with a scope and the bolt turned, other than that it is in military dress.

    Dave
    Beemer,

    It's a stock 96 Swede with a birch stock, has the turned down bolt handle, a Timney trigger, and of course the scope. Nothing else, no bedding or anything.

    swheeler

    The scope was set to 10 where it's always set. I made the shot from my pc room window off a pillow. I can tell you it wasn't the steadiest of setups.

    Joe

  19. #39
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    Just wondering Joe since the B-plex reticle is in the first focal plane. I wasn't aware of this many years ago and was shooting over 300 yd gong on lower power, cranked it up to 9x anmd it worked like it was supposed to. All my variables are kept set on lowest/lower power until needed, they are hunting rifles. Even with a BC of .350 and a 100 yd zero that bullet should be dropping about 2 feet and have an impact velocity of 1600+. Looks like time to hang some 300 yd targets, maybe 3 stacked vertical and use the cross hair, see what it is dropping to center of group.
    Hell, I was there!

  20. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by swheeler View Post
    Just wondering Joe since the B-plex reticle is in the first focal plane. I wasn't aware of this many years ago and was shooting over 300 yd gong on lower power, cranked it up to 9x anmd it worked like it was supposed to. All my variables are kept set on lowest/lower power until needed, they are hunting rifles. Even with a BC of .350 and a 100 yd zero that bullet should be dropping about 2 feet and have an impact velocity of 1600+. Looks like time to hang some 300 yd targets, maybe 3 stacked vertical and use the cross hair, see what it is dropping to center of group.
    Scot,

    Which bullet and caliber you shooting that has a BC of .350? I was told by 45 2.1 when I was shooting this before at that distance not to hold over so much. He was right. I've done this same thing with my AR15 in 6.5 Grendel too. Except with the Grendel I was shooting five shot groups. It was grouping 1.5 inches at 300 yards with that Saeco 140 grain bore rider. That bullet has a lot higher BC. Too bad the Swede is picky on bullet diameter and that it has that loooong throat or I'd try that Saeco bullet. It's a very accurate bullet.

    Joe

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check