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Thread: Lee 429-240-2R

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
    RobS's Avatar
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    Lee 429-240-2R

    Anyone out there have experience using this bullet in a lever action. The lever action in use is my father's 44 mag Big Boy Henry in case others have this rifle.

    Any experience whether a Henry lever action, Marlin, or others would be appreciated. It would seem as if the design would be good for initial feeding but could be too long to cycle. The bullet will only be used for plinking as the Lee 310 grainer as been selected for hunting loads etc.

    Thanks,

    Rob

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
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    Can't help you regarding its abililty to function in a lever action, but can tell you that the C.O.A.L. with the case mouth at the top of the crimp groove is 1.685. Should be plenty short enough.
    This is my most accurate boolit for pop-gun to mid-range loads from my wheelies. I believe that the accuracy that's superior to any Keith type boolit in this application is due to its lack of a sharp shoulder, allowing for a smoother transition into and better ability to center itself in the forcing cone (asbestos suit donned... go ahead, boys; flash up the flamethrowers).

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
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    flinchnjerk:

    Now I'm getting somewhere...........thanks for the measurement that will help me out.

    Thanks again,

    Rob

  4. #4
    Anti-Socialist Texan


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    I have that mould, too, but only shoot it in a model 29 silhouette. For that application I had to crimp over the shoulder of the front driving band. I know the round nose looks like it would find the middle of the forcing cone more easily than a SWC, and maybe it does, but keep in mind it isn't like a WFN with a smooth transition from ogive to bearing surface, there is a step with the Lee boolit, on mine cast from WW the base of the nose is about as deep as the crimp groove, so there is about a .006" shoulder to get mashed by the cone if your alignment/timing is off. I reallydon't go for the "nose guiding" theory unless the boolit has a smooth transition.

    I have other revolvers that most definately shoot better with designs that have no step and are rounded to the front bearing surface, so I DO subscribe to the theory in general, as well as the theory that a little cylinder movement at lockup helps our boolits get straight in an imperfect world.

    As far as working in a levergun, I'm sure you won't have any problem because if the coal is too much, just seat deeper and crimp over the front driving band ****ASSUMING THAT YOU REWORK YOUR POWDER CHARGE**** to accomodate the reduced case capacity.

    Gear
    You can't fix Stupid, but you can occasionally head it off before it hurts something. --Stephen Adams

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  5. #5
    Boolit Master
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    geargnasher
    I surmise from your post that Lee's done it again... whimsically changed the design of a boolit without making any public announcement that they've done so, or even bothering to change the picture on the box. Mine doesn't have a step; it does have a smooth transition from ogive to shank (identical to the picture on Lee's website)
    Gad, I love it when Lee does that... especially when I buy what I think will be a twin to a mould that I already own, only to find that there's been enough changes in design that it's essentially a completely different boolit.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check