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Thread: To those that have malfunctioning 740 and 742's and even 7400's

  1. #1
    Boolit Master

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    To those that have malfunctioning 740 and 742's and even 7400's

    Those are known for the receivers going bad due to them being soft and the lugs on the bolts chewing them up. Then they jam up and quit working. One solution is to send them in and get them converted to a pump which will cost anywhere from 240 bucks on up depending on where you send it too. An easier and cheaper solution which is what I did is just convert it to a straight pull action which is simple. If you take the forearm off you will see the block on the bottom of the barrel and the gas tube coming out at a 90 degree angle on the action side of that block. On the bottom of that block is a set screw and if you take that out you will see a ball bearing which I suppose is a check valve of some sort. Take the set screw out and buy a longer one about a half an inch. Take out the ball bearing and you will see the hole is smaller where the ball bearing was seated. Take a dremel tool and take down 3/4 of the longer set screw to a pencil lead thickness until it fits in that smaller hole. Leave at least 3 threads on the set screw and screw it into the hole so it blocks the gas port where it comes into the block at the 90 degree angle. This should block the gas port. IF you want to be sure you can then block the gas port tube with something if you want to just to double make sure. Though I did not and mine works fine it does not cycle the action. Use the original set screw and screw it back in behind the altered set screw. Picture the set screw with only 3 or 4 threads and a pencil lead sized shaft for the rest of it this is what you want to just fit into that smaller hole and let the threads left catch the threads in the first part of the hole and screw in.

    Now what you will have is a straight pull action that will not cycle when fired (Think single shot) or take the bolt out of battery until you manually pull the bolt back with the bolt handle. This will save the receiver from getting more chewed up and now you can still shoot the gun as much as you like. IF these guns are not converted like this or to a pump gun the receivers will get so chewed up they will jam up permanently and a gunsmith will have to free them up and convert them or declare them junk.

    There was a gun back in the early 1900s that was one of the first semi auto's made in the US it was called the Standard Arms Model G that was a semi auto but had a gas shut off valve and then you could use the gun as a pump. If you did not want to use the gun as a straight pull you could make a forearm to fit the action at the end of the slide and block the gas port and use it as a pump easy enough leaving the spring in place and just doing with what you have here. I preferred to use the original forearm and just make mine straight pull. Yes this does work I already test fired it.

    If you take the magazine out and work the bolt you will notice the bolt has to move back about a half an inch for the bolt head to start turning and move the locking lugs out of battery. If the slides do not move either by gas pressure or manual movement the gun will not go out of battery and act like a single shot. Working the slides by either the bolt handle or the block up where the slides end where the gas port is like a pump to manually co-ck the gun then cycles the action.

    Just something to think about as if you fire these long enough in the semi auto mode the receivers will go bad this is a given. Remington said 1000 rounds if that which is NOT MUCH. My gunsmith said less rounds than that.

    I did this to a 1964 vintage 742 that was given to me by a friend it had no magazine and I told him I would buy it but they have problems with the receivers wearing out so he gave it to me. I now figure I can continue to shoot it and not worry about the receiver wearing out as the 760 pump is basically the same gun only a manual operated pump and their receivers last almost forever as they do not have the lugs bashing the back of the receivers from the pounding of the semi auto action. If you have a 740 or 742 look in the slot where the bolt handle slides in the back of the receiver or look back there with the mag out. Any guns that have been shot even moderately will show a scalloped area on the rails of the receiver where the bolt lugs have been battering the rails. These get bad enough and the bolt will lock up tightly and the gun will them be considered a basket case. Catching it before it gets that far and making it a pump or a straight pull action is the best way to go. If the gun is starting to jam it could be on its way out already.

    Pic of the gas port and part of the block I was talking about. This is NOT my gun but a pic I found on the net from Wisners. showing how these guns can rust in wetter climates but it does show part of the gas port and block and the slide action of the semi auto system.

    Last edited by jh45gun; 01-05-2010 at 02:26 AM.
    A gun is like a parachute: If you need one and don't have one, you won't be needing one again.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master Jack Stanley's Avatar
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    Could the problem be slowed down by loading ammo to just barely function the action ? My nephew had one given to him by his Grandfather , I doubt he wants to convert or crash with it .

    Jack

  3. #3
    Boolit Master

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    Well the gun is made for a certain range of power of shells anything lower will not cycle the action completely and jam anyway. Do not think I am being a quack about this. Some gun shops are known for converting these to pumps. I got this on an other forum in reply to my Post.

    Ahlman"s gunshop in Minnesota advertises this conversion. My father has a 742 that will probably need this conversion some time in the distant future.
    So I looked them up and you can see they do the conversion for it

    Convert Rem. 742 to pump action

    *above includes exchange of parts and Birch forearm* $229.00

    http://www.ahlmans.com/riflework.html

    Myself I could not see spending the money when this will work just fine. Make no mistake about it the more the gun is shot it will wear out as a semi auto. Like I said if you look in the gun where the bolt ends in its rear ward travel you will see the rails being chewed up. Remington used to offer a deal where they would give you a partial cash rebate on a new 7400 but they quit that years ago. Some folks still have no idea these guns are only good for a limited amount of rounds through them until they as you called it crash or quit.
    A gun is like a parachute: If you need one and don't have one, you won't be needing one again.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
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    Yeah - it's true. My gunsmith buddy told me years ago that they wear out their soft receivers but he also says they're actually dangerous - can fire out of battery when they go bad. Something about the bolt not staying indexed in the "slide" when it jumps the rails if I recall correctly. Surprisingly he says 7400s are better - or at least safer. Anyway he has counselled me for years to stay away from 740s and 742s. He's seen more than one of them "blown up" which I guess will not only blast the mag (and parts of the trigger group?) out of the bottom of the receiver but can also shatter the forend and injure the shooter's hand and/or arm. Even if there was no danger of firing out of battery, I have little interest in a rifle that can't wear out the first barrel before the action is junk. I leave 'em for the 5 shots per year guys.
    Uncle R.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master

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    Well I got this for free and the receiver is no different then the pump guns (760) that they never wear out because manually working the bolt does not slam them into the receiver rails like the semi auto action does. So converting to a pump or a straight pull like I did will save any of the guns if the receiver has any life left to it. Mine was diagnosed as the receiver being half worn out so that is why I converted it NOW. The thing is to convert it before the receiver gets totally bad.
    A gun is like a parachute: If you need one and don't have one, you won't be needing one again.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
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    I don't know if this the same malady, but a local but retired Gunsmith does or used to do a weld up and re-machine of the area above the bolt and take care of chatter marks due to premature wear on 740/742 Remingtons.

    ME, I'd just as soon buy a 760 and be done with it ....... I've had two 742's over the years .... the second one had those chatter marks and the previous owner got his rifle back ..... he was happy ..........

    ......... and I was HAPPIER!!

    Three 44s

  7. #7
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by Three44s View Post
    I don't know if this the same malady, but a local but retired Gunsmith does or used to do a weld up and re-machine of the area above the bolt and take care of chatter marks due to premature wear on 740/742 Remingtons.

    ME, I'd just as soon buy a 760 and be done with it ....... I've had two 742's over the years .... the second one had those chatter marks and the previous owner got his rifle back ..... he was happy ..........

    ......... and I was HAPPIER!!

    Three 44s

    Yep Same Problem why buy a 760 though when I have no money in this since I got it free and it will solve the problem of the receiver wearing out anymore. Yes I have heard of gunsmiths doing the welding but you got to find one not every gunsmith wants to mess with them. Myself as long as the gun will function as is as a straight pull I have no issues with that and it is not my only rifle I have others. I figure I just saved it from being a wall hanger which it would be sooner or later if shot as a semi auto.
    A gun is like a parachute: If you need one and don't have one, you won't be needing one again.

  8. #8
    Boolit Bub
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    Real good post. I'll have to check my .243 mod. 7400 for wear. Are the 7400's supposed to be better than the 742's? I'm going to do the mod on mine anyway, because I don't like it throwing brass all over.

    I should have bought a 7600 instead, or something else.
    US out of the UN, UN out of the US.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by Milanodan View Post
    Real good post. I'll have to check my .243 mod. 7400 for wear. Are the 7400's supposed to be better than the 742's? I'm going to do the mod on mine anyway, because I don't like it throwing brass all over.

    I should have bought a 7600 instead, or something else.
    They Claim the 7400 is an improvement over the 742 and they did something to eliminate the rail problem so your gun is probably ok.

    The models 4,74,7400 were designed with 3 larger locking lugs, a slightly cone shaped barrel breech for better feeding & a hardened rail insert in the top of the receiver to guide the upper locking lug, eliminating the possibility of the receiver rails being ruined. The scope base mounting holes were changed & increased in size from the normal 6-48 to 8-40 size. The firing pin was redesigned. The trigger group remained basically the same with the exception of a larger magazine release button.
    A gun is like a parachute: If you need one and don't have one, you won't be needing one again.

  10. #10
    Boolit Bub
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    Thanks for the quick reply. I just removed the forearm and checked things out. I used a strong flashlight and didn't see any wear along the upper receiver where the bolt slides.

    Next I removed the set screw and ball and measured the thru-hole (gas port). It's ~0.076" dia for my .243. The setscrew is 10-32, so I'll go buy a longer one and grind the end down.

    Any reason I can't simply use one longer setscrew instead of two? Thought I'd use blue Loctite on it.
    US out of the UN, UN out of the US.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master

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    You can use a longer one sure I just when I got done ground a little more then I liked so I put in the other as a precaution to make sure it had plenty of strength. When you get done then run a piece of wire in the gas tube to make sure that part of it is blocked in the far end where the set screw will go past the end of the tube. I would take a measurement before and after. Also make sure the ground end is not so long it protrudes into the barrel. That is easy to measure too just by looking at the block.
    A gun is like a parachute: If you need one and don't have one, you won't be needing one again.

  12. #12
    Boolit Bub
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    I really owe you one for this. My 7400 has been sitting in my safe for years, after I grew tired of chasing after the brass. I'd go to a range and use cardboard, etc deflectors to try and keep the brass on the bench.

    Also, the violent extraction was rough on the case heads of my precious little brass bottles. Finally just gave up and took other rifles out with me.

    Tomorrow I'll buy some 10-32 setscrews and get to work. If I/wife ever sell it, it can easily be returned to semi-auto.
    US out of the UN, UN out of the US.

  13. #13
    Boolit Master

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    I suspect if you like it after the conversion you will keep it why get rid of an otherwise good rifle.
    A gun is like a parachute: If you need one and don't have one, you won't be needing one again.

  14. #14
    Boolit Buddy
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    IMOP You can cut the wear down on the locking lugs by shooting 150 165gr boolits, Stay away from heavy boolits and max loads......

  15. #15
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kskybroom View Post
    IMOP You can cut the wear down on the locking lugs by shooting 150 165gr boolits, Stay away from heavy boolits and max loads......
    That's a good tip but it will not stop it completely especially once the wear starts which does not take long with the soft receivers. At least this way it stops it from getting worse. Remington was quoted at a 1000 rounds which is nothing for a gun and my gunsmith said the truth be told more like 500 rounds in some guns. For the guy that shoots less than a box of shells a year that adds up to a lot of years. For some one who wants to shoot it more you need to do something like what I did or get it converted to a pump or trade it off and most gun shops will not give you spit for these anymore since the word has been out for a long time the receiver issue. Only reason I am messing with it the gun was given to me free and I told the guy I would hang on to it since he gave it to me. So the only options were: do what I did, Convert to a pump which would have cost me more money or shoot it seldom. I would have a hard time shooting it seldom knowing each shot was wearing down the receiver more.
    A gun is like a parachute: If you need one and don't have one, you won't be needing one again.

  16. #16
    Boolit Master


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    Hummm..Interesting topic here. I have a 74 Auto in 30/06. I believe it is a "cheaper" version of the 7400? I say that because mine has a hardwood stock and the bluing is mat not gloss. I don't shoot it much. Used it to take a nice doe a few years back. Does it have one of the soft receivers that was talked about? If so I need to make it into a single shooter too. Thanks.
    Smoked Turkey.

  17. #17
    Boolit Master

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    The 740 and the 742 had the soft receivers. According to the info I posted on the 7400 they did some changes to remedy that but who knows I never looked at one compared to the 742. The 740 and 742 you can see the chatter marks on the rails if you take out the magazine and look back where the bolt ends in its rearward travel. I never looked at a well used 7400 to see if there was marks on the rails or not. Supposedly they fixed the problem by the time they got to the 7400. But then the 740 had issues and they made so called improvements on the 742 but it did not help any. Maybe by the time they got to the 7400 they solved the issue. Here is a repeat of what I posted before on the 7400.

    The models 4,74,7400 were designed with 3 larger locking lugs, a slightly cone shaped barrel breech for better feeding & a hardened rail insert in the top of the receiver to guide the upper locking lug, eliminating the possibility of the receiver rails being ruined. The scope base mounting holes were changed & increased in size from the normal 6-48 to 8-40 size. The firing pin was redesigned. The trigger group remained basically the same with the exception of a larger magazine release button.
    All I can say is if there is any wear on the 7400's you should be able to see it. The locking lugs wear into the rails and give it a scalloped look.
    A gun is like a parachute: If you need one and don't have one, you won't be needing one again.

  18. #18
    Boolit Master

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    I would change the title to eliminate the 7400 part but some forums will let you change the the title this one will not.
    A gun is like a parachute: If you need one and don't have one, you won't be needing one again.

  19. #19
    Moderator Emeritus fishhawk's Avatar
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    mods can change it. steve k
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  20. #20
    Boolit Bub
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    I "vote" to leave it as written. If it hadn't had the 7400 I probably wouldn't have looked at the thread, so my 7400 would still be in the back of the safe.

    My interest was in getting rid of the brass ejection. BTW, my first attempt at grinding down a setscrew didn't work. I made the small end way too small, and had a taper that I thought would seal against the outer end of the port.

    I test fired a reduced load and it almost ejected the brass. I made another screw that fits into the 0.076" port, ~0.074", with a better taper. Haven't been able to test it yet.

    Looks like you don't need much gas flow to cycle the action.
    US out of the UN, UN out of the US.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check