Technique problems???

[klausg]

Hey gang-

I definitely had some problems yesterday; I think Father Grand Caster was looking somewhere else, (I really do like that Buckshot) . My mind was dealing with quite a few issues from work so I decided to cast and clear it out, I was making more 358477's and my difficulties were sprue tearing. At least I think it's sprue tearing; I was left with a little dimple in the base, kinda grainy-looking.

I think, from my reading all of the advice posted here, that I was going a little too fast. It was nearly always the inboard mold, (the one I pour last), and I did get a significant amount of lead smeared on my sprue plate. I tried slowing down & things improved, not completely though. I also think I may need to hit up Bullshop for some of his Plate Lube, (I probably would've done it in person yesterday, but that's about a 5-hour drive from here). The casting did have the desired effect of getting my mind off work, but then my mind became obsessed with figuring out what I was doing wrong.

So, I'm asking for a little help here; any advice out there? Thanks guys, take care

-SSG Klaus

[44woody]

you might try slowing down some and turning your heat down a few degrees might help 44Woody

[dragonrider]

Check the holes in the spru plate for sharpness, messed up edges will cause exactly what you mention.

[44man]

Tiny pits after you cut the sprue will not hurt anything. If you are smearing lead and getting a build up on the plate and mould top, you are just not waiting long enough for the lead to harden. A few more seconds wait can save a lot of time removing the lead from where you don't want it.

[Dale53]

Klausg;
Here's something that I do to maintain a "tempo" when casting. A good tempo is necessary to maintain consistent mould temperature which will lead to less weight variation. "When the sprue changes color, wait six seconds (real time) before trying to cut the sprue". This will stop lead smearing over the top of the mould.

However, I DO encourage you to get a bottle of Bullshop's Sprue Plate Lube. Good stuff and it will end lead smearing (if you do get any, you can just wipe it off the mould top with your gloved thumb). Really good stuff!

Dale53

[454PB]

I use a cake pan with a sponge in 1/2" of water to control mould temperature. Once you see signs of too much heat, touch the bottom of the filled mould on the wet sponge. After you've done it a few times, you'll learn how long to keep the mould in contact with the sponge. Heat is GOOD.

[johnho]

all the above are great solutions. I too have had problems casting when I try to ward off the problems of the day. I find out when I settle down and "get into it" the problems go away. I suspect you are just so wired, like me sometimes, that you are going too fast. I do have to try the Bull stuff though

John

[David R]

You may have lead still stuck to the bottom of the sprue plate. Clean that off before trying anything else. I use a scotchbrite pad when the mold is HOT.

Lead builds up on the bottom of the sprue plate and holds it up a little to make the little dimples on the base of your boolits.


I like your idea of stress relief.
David

[Bret4207]

For the tearing you can also try "The BruceB Method" of casting, There's a sticky here on one of the columns for it. Basicly you cool the srpue before cutting. Works for me.

[BruceB]

There are quite a few interesting cast bullet articles at the link at the bottom of each page here. Just click on "Cast Boolit Articles", and you'll find them, including mine on speedcasting to which Tpr Bret referred. You will NOT get torn bases if you follow the method outlined.

[charger 1]

Klausg;
Here's something that I do to maintain a "tempo" when casting. A good tempo is necessary to maintain consistent mould temperature which will lead to less weight variation. "When the sprue changes color, wait six seconds (real time) before trying to cut the sprue". This will stop lead smearing over the top of the mould.

However, I DO encourage you to get a bottle of Bullshop's Sprue Plate Lube. Good stuff and it will end lead smearing (if you do get any, you can just wipe it off the mould top with your gloved thumb). Really good stuff!

Dale53

For what its worth,I hold the mold upside down for those few seconds.Heat rises

[klausg]

All- Thank you very much for all of your replies. I think johnho might have hit the nail on the head, I was just too wired. Did a mess of 311252's last night; no problems. I give it a good slow 5-6 count prior to cutting & no problems. I still need/want to get some of Bullshop's whoopee juice & give it a try though. Thanks again

-SSG Klaus

[lovedogs]

I use a little different method to keep the top of the mould and the sprue cutting plate clean. Before I start casting I put a bullet into the cavity and shoot a quick shot of mould release onto the surfaces. It coats it with a fine graphite coating that lubes and doesn't allow any lead sticking to them. Just keep that stuff out of the cavities as it can build up and cause out of round bullets and keep moulds from closing tightly.