some places for ideas
http://www.freepatentsonline.com/4468877.html
also look at the reference patents on the right
more than enough to get into it
some places for ideas
http://www.freepatentsonline.com/4468877.html
also look at the reference patents on the right
more than enough to get into it
John
I bet John Browning did the same, and someone made patent drawings from his models.
Nice looking lock by the way
John
I use the same system with woodworks. Now when it comes to steel...I am getting better.....weld it, grint, bolt it, grind it, weld it, grind it....until it works.
My new underhammer and my new mule ear are both in a great big old shoe box full of assorted parts/springs...my job is to find out which ones can be made to work. My scratch built underhammer is going to be a laminated reciever stealing attributes of a H&A underhammer and lever action/falling/rolling block rifles....some day. I am holding it together with pins until it is finished and then I will weld all the laminations together.
I personally find wood to be a friendlier medium...but I am slowly getting steel to be more friendly.
under hammer frames, a piece of cake.
this one just happen to be out of brass but steel work well also.
Piece of cake if you have a mill. My hammer trigger/raceway is being done with drill bits and files.
One thing that's always helped me when building a lock, was to build it in wood first.
Helps to work the bugs out.
Mk42gunner, It doesn't need a lot of clearance, just enough so it does not rub. If I remember right it is elongated a bit. Used a carbide end mill probably, been a long time ago.
Here's a picture of scalloping the sides on a brass under hammer frame.
4060 ..Yes, Please do post when your friend is ready...and thanks for the link..
Mr. Peter Nap....a most excellent idea ....THANK YOU...
[QUOTE=John Taylor;739868]Mk42gunner, It doesn't need a lot of clearance, just enough so it does not rub. If I remember right it is elongated a bit. Used a carbide end mill probably, been a long time ago.QUOTE]
Okay, I was thinking of drilling the hole with the spring in an annealed state then hardening it; but I thought the hole in the spring would cause all sorts of problems.
Nice pictures of the brass frame; I have always liked the looks of underhammers, never had one though.
Thanks,
Robert
Sam Fadala's friend, Dale Storey, was doing business as DGS, Inc. of Casper, WY. I believe he had a patent on a special Mule Ear design. Don't have a web link, but maybe someone in that area could get a phone number. A lot of these custom gunsmiths are really decent people - he may be willing to give you some ideas - or perhaps a dimensioned drawing (for a few bucks).
"The possession of arms is the distinction between a freeman and a slave."
James Burgh, Political Disquisitions, 1774
I just GOOGLED it and found Name, address & phone number..
Thanks
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |