Had one go years ago. Nothing big. It blew and the rod shot up almost a foot and that was it! Wouldn't faze me to do it again!
Had one go years ago. Nothing big. It blew and the rod shot up almost a foot and that was it! Wouldn't faze me to do it again!
Best to use a soft face hammer or you start peening over the ends of the rods. They'll still work but a lead, copper or plastic faced hammer/mallet works well, is quieter and won't peen the steel rods over.
However, your point is well made in that with steel on steel you are imparting more impact than a soft face hammer would and didn't have any detonations.
My suspicion is that those who have problems are either smacking too hard or not lining things up well enough. Primers are impact sensitive after all.
Glad to hear the injuries were minor, and you're not missing more than some skin and pride.
It's obvious that you're not the first or only one to have such an experience for the same reason.
I have never and won't try to reset a primer in a loaded round. There is a little voice that has kept me safe (when I listen) for a long long time.
I don't try to seat primer beyond normal pressures. There is a reason for it being outside the norm. If a military round, it has a crimp that I swage and chamfer. That way it's the same pocket as a commercial case.
I've never experienced a primer detonation except when struck with a firing pin.
Not pointing fingers but..........
I've used at least 5 different priming tools in press, bench, and hand tools, without incident. All primers not done on progressives are checked before powder is introduced.
Careful examination of primer seating is checked at every setup and again at every die change on progressives.
Just because many have taken these chances successfully, is no sign that your number isn't next. Expedience is no excuse to take that big a chance. We have safe ways to deal with the problem.
If we wind up with huge numbers of a mistake, it's because we were not paying attention for a long time. The penalty is much more wasted time properly correcting it.
Last edited by mold maker; 10-12-2016 at 04:48 PM.
Information not shared. is wasted.
No offense intended but what nonsense. First, the original Lee Loader was made for the occasional reloader needing a few rounds, it was never intended to be a substitute for a press. Done correctly - gently - it's rare to pop a cap while seating; it's not necessary to hit it like driving 20d nails. A primer has a VERY small amount of explosive compound/ If it pops it's not a stick of dynamite, nothing is going to blow your hands off... nor should it result in soiled panties if it does.
I got a Lee Loader for .30-06 in '65 because I had access to several hundred rounds of corrosive mil surplus ammo. I wanted to pull it down and a standard size/decap die had a pin bending problem with the heavily crimped in primers. I suppose 2 out of 3 would go off with the sturdy Lee decapper; big deal, I simply wore a leather work glove on my left had. ???
I don't remember having a pop at all when re-capping properly reamed primer pockets but I probably only did a couple hundred because I did have a press and wanted to FL size.
Ham handed newby loaders are exactly the ones that set off primers with Lee's Whack a Mole.
As a manufacturing engineer I developed manufacturing processes for tens of thousands of manufactured and assembled items.
There is not a single company that would permit something like popping primers in the factory.
EDG
Came across this thread after googling "Why TF do my primers keep going off?"
So glad to hear I'm not the only one that's had this issue with the Lee Loader.
I've just started reloading 44mag. It's too expensive to keep buying factory ammo, but since I'm too cheap and only reloading one caliber, I got the Lee Loader. Federal primers because it's what the store had.
So far I've popped 5 out of about 70. Yes, it'll scare the hell out ya. Almost typed "I've pooped 5 out of about 70", because that's just as accurate.
I've been wearing gloves, plugs and eye pro since whack #1 while DEPRIMING with no fresh primers or powder nearby. A local guy who claims to be a gunsmith (actually he's a liar, cheat, and gun wrecker) almost lost his whole face a couple years ago when he managed to set off a whole box of 1K.
A smart man learns from his mistakes, a wise man learns from the mistakes of others. Me? I go through a lot of trouble learning new ways of making the same mistakes. Hey, I'm an innovator.
So far I've got some soot on my gloves, I've wasted about 25 cents worth of primers, and probably won't drop a deuce for a month. I'll be investing in a separate primer tool as soon as I can. My bowels just can't take much more of this.
Try this innovation: use a hard plastic mallet that weighs no more than 8 ounces, give the primer seating rod two LIGHT taps, rotate the case 180 degrees and give 2 more light taps. Then check the primer seating depth. If not fully seated then tap a little harder, slowly work up to fully seating the primers. You should be able to load thousands of rounds without setting off any primers. If you start using brass that had crimped primers, then your method will have to change.
I'm using an 8 ounce leather mallet and have started tapping very lightly. I'll try your idea of rotating the case, but I'm still going to go ahead and get a hand primer. So I can speed up my screw ups!
So, I've been following your advice. I've popped one more primer, which is a huge improvement, I thank you very much!
Now, coming across this 17 page long thread that was started nearly 7 years ago, I haven't read all the posts, but will be going back through them.
I did see mention, either here or somewhere else, not sure, that Federal primers shouldn't be used with this kit. But I can't for the life of me remember ever reading why.
I believe I've found out. I switched to CCI Magnum large pistol primers, #350. I'd gone to a different store and had seen where Federals weren't supposed to be used, so I picked them up.
Here's a picture of the difference. Federal on the left, CCI on the right.
May be hard to tell in the pic, but the CCI has a much flatter face. Makes me feel a bit better. It makes perfect sense to me that the CCI would be more stable in the primer setting tool, less likely to tilt with a less than perfectly straight strike with the hammer.
Since switching to CCIs, and continuing with your advice ulav8r, I haven't had a single primer go off in 100. So far. I still expect to make a mistake or two somewhere along the way. But at least I feel more confident.
This may already be covered in the thread, but I'm for those who may be finding it recently. Folks like me who may just now be experiencing this problem and are too lazy to go through the entire thread.
That is exactly what I was going to suggest. Of all the rounds I reloaded, the CCI was the toughest and I never lost one to premature firing. After the first one and only one went off when using another primer (can't remember which one it was long ago), I switched to CCI and never had another problem.
May all your bullets find the Bullseye.
Something I forgot to mention in my post (#167), the initial light taps may help you detect loose primer pockets.
Haven't had that issue as of yet really, but thanks for the info.
Nearly all of my brass is once fired Winchester, fired by me or my mom. I've been saving the brass since I got the gun, because I knew I'd have to reload eventually. She's been saving hers for the same reason, but I've actually started doing it and she hasn't
I love this thread.
This Lee loader was what got me into reloading many years ago. Mine was for 12 gauge shotgun paper shells when I turned 16 and was able to drive to dove fields instead of riding a bike.
Many moves later, marriage, kids, I don't know what happened to it. I did find a jar of 7 1/2 shot and a tin of Alcan 5 and one of Alcan 7 powder. Maybe one day it will turn up.
I have many fond memories of that reloader and the pride associated with loading my own ammo.
I love these old resurrected threads. My buddy and I spent a few dollars way back when and bought one to reload the .357's that we both bought. Didn't cast except for our m/l back then. We learned to wear a glove on our left hand when seating primers. It still startled us, but didn't hurt. We named it the "tap and bang" method of handloading. Soon after I bought a Lee 3 hole turret press and a set of Lee dies. I thought I was in high cotton then!
Tom
μολὼν λαβέ
Did I ever mention that I hate to trim brass?
Several comments/things I've learned
1) I have many Lee loaders(yes, I'm a hoarder of all things firearm related)
2) only one I ever used was the .38 Special, no problems(most of my loading is on blue tools, but a Lee Challenger is still on the bench)
3) ALL my brass has primer pockets uniformed(IMHO , dirty pockets caused harder seating in many of the primer detonations described)
4) Lee Loaders got a LOT of folks started
5) Mr. Buchanan makes a VERY nice hand press which I cannot justify buying but may someday have to have anyway !
6) helped a friend set up a Lee Classic Cast and it's every bit as good as a RockChucker for 2/3 the price
7) EDG does not like Lee
MERRY CHRISTMAS to everybody - including Scrooge and EDG !
I dont know how many rounds i loaded on my lee loaders (3030 and 3006) but the primers fill a 750ml spaghetti sauce jar, i figure its about 2500 or so. I have only had one pop, it was a magnum large rifle from a tray that had been in the sun for almost an hour on a very hot day, i put that tray away and got some from the trunk to finish up what i was doing.
I always wear safety glasses but dont bother with gloves, the case is surrounded by the die body and i dont put my fingers over the dangerous end when i prime so even with the magnum going pop it didnt burn my fingers
Not personally but I have seen it happen a few times .
Eddie
Grumpy Old Man With A Gun....... Do Not Touch !!
Just keep the rod of the priming tool on the base of the cartridge with light downward hand pressure.
Will stop the cannoning effect of rod hitting case hitting primer hitting priming tool base.
This will allow the primer to be pushed with force into the primer seat and not be hit with a percussive blow.
Ohhh ship yeah percussion primer.
Have ever mangled primers in a press and wondered why the didn't go off?
Well its pretty hard to set a primer off if you do that.
Try it.
Go on I dare 'ya
Won't hurt you....you big sooks.
Got nothing to loose .
Go on.
What's one lousy primer.
Now for the operating manual.
Place shell into sizing die.
Hit base of shell with soft face hammer till it is square with the base.
Case is now sized.
insert depriming rod and place into shell holder.whack with hammer case is deprimed.
Place primer in the priming tool facing the right way up.
Place shell holder with case still in it with the base aligned and seated in the prime base
Take the priming rod and insert into case.
WITH DOWNWARD PRESSURE ON THE PRIMING ROD tap the rod with light force with the soft face hammer or lump of wood you used before.
Primer should be seated in a couple of blows.
Hint: a piece of rubber on the bench /concrete take alot of the ear ringing noise out of the operation when using the lee loader.
Last edited by barrabruce; 12-24-2016 at 08:56 PM.
Have used tight downward pressure since day one. Haven't popped another primer since a few days before 10/30/2016, which was the day I posted #169. I've reloaded about another thousand rounds since then.
Ear muffs also reduce the hammering on the ears. They're also more effective at muting the complaints coming from all corners of the house.
Hey, when I'VE already started, THEN one of them decides to make/take a phone call, they should show the courtesy to me, not the other way around. Don't ask me to stop what I'm doing so you can talk about Billy Bob's cousin/wife's ex brother in law's uncle's best friend's erectile dysfunctions. Ain't none their bidness anyway and I don't care to hear the details inevitably shared later.
BANG!BANG!BANG!
Wut? *smile and nod*
BANG!BANG!BANG!
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |